WTW6700WT1 Drain Pump – What It Does and How to Replace It
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Understanding the Problem
The drain pump on a Whirlpool WTW6700WT1 is the motorized pump that forces water out of the tub and into the home's drain during the drain and spin cycles. When it fails you'll typically find water left in the tub, loud grinding or humming noises during drain, or leaks from the bottom of the washer. Step-by-step diagnostic and repair instructions: 1) Safety first: unplug the washer and turn off water supply. Work on a dry floor with a towel and a shallow pan for water left in hoses. 2) Confirm symptom: run a drain/drain & spin cycle and listen. If you hear a hum but no water exiting, the pump is trying but not moving water. If silent, pump may not be getting power or is seized. 3) Check the simple things: inspect the drain hose for kinks, clogs, or high-loop issues. Remove the hose from the standpipe to see if it drains freely. Also check any removable coin-trap or filter (if your model has one) for debris. 4) Access the pump: move the washer away from the wall, remove the lower access panel (front or back depending on unit). Place towels under the pump area — you'll likely spill a cup or two of water. 5) Visual inspection: look for obvious debris, broken impeller blades, or cracks in the pump housing. Also inspect hose connections and clamps for leaks. 6) Electrical test: with the washer unplugged, disconnect the pump's wiring harness and use a multimeter to check for continuity across the pump motor terminals. A reading typically shows some low resistance (tens of ohms). An open circuit (OL) indicates a burned-out motor. 7) Run a live test only if you know what you're doing: with panels reinstalled and wiring connected, you can have someone run a drain cycle while you watch the pump wires for 120VAC at the harness when the washer should be draining. No voltage to pump indicates a control/board, pressure switch, or lid switch issue — not the pump itself. 8) Remove the pump: drain any residual water into a pan, loosen hose clamps and remove inlet/outlet hoses, unclip wiring harness, and remove mounting screws/clips holding the pump. Note hose routing and take a photo for reassembly. 9) Inspect impeller and inlet: many failures are caused by coins, socks, or debris jamming the impeller. Clean housing if debris is present. If impeller blades are missing or the housing is cracked, replace the pump assembly. 10) Replace the pump: install the new pump (ensure OEM or compatible replacement), reconnect hoses with new clamp positions or new clamps if the old ones are corroded, reconnect the wiring harness, and secure mounting hardware. 11) Test: plug washer back in, run a drain cycle with no clothes. Check for proper draining, listen for smooth pump operation, and inspect for leaks. 12) Final checks: put panels back, restore washer to location, retest with a small load to confirm normal operation. Practical how-to-fix notes: if the pump motor has continuity but will not spin, it's usually jammed or the impeller is broken — replace the pump. If the pump has no continuity or smells burned, replace it. If the pump does not receive 120V during a drain cycle, troubleshoot the control board, timers, lid switch, and pressure/level switch before replacing the pump. Safety note: Always unplug the washer before opening panels or disconnecting wiring. When performing live voltage checks use proper PPE and only if you are comfortable working safely with mains voltage.
Common Symptoms
Washer won't drain or spin out water, loud grinding or rumbling during drain, persistent water in the tub after cycle, visible leak from the bottom of the washer, or drain-related error codes.
Common Causes
- Debris or foreign object jamming the impeller (coins, small clothing items, debris)
- Pump motor failure (open winding or burned motor)
- Cracked pump housing or worn impeller causing loss of prime and leaks
- Clogged or kinked drain hose or blocked standpipe
- Electrical/control problem preventing power to the pump (bad control board, lid switch, or pressure switch)
Popular Parts That Fix This Problem
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Helpful Repair Tip
Before ordering a new pump, remove the pump inlet hose and inspect/feel for debris; also check for continuity with a multimeter. If the pump hums but won't move water and continuity is present, replacement is needed.
Frequently Asked Questions
How can I be sure the drain pump is the problem and not the drain hose or control board?
Start by checking the drain hose for kinks or clogs and try to drain the washer with the hose removed. Next, listen to the pump during a drain cycle — humming indicates the pump is trying. With the washer unplugged, test pump continuity with a multimeter; an open circuit means the pump motor is bad. If the pump has continuity but doesn't run and there's 120VAC at the pump connector during a drain cycle, the pump is faulty. If there's no voltage at the connector when it should be draining, suspect the control board, lid/door switch, or pressure switch.
Can I replace the drain pump myself and how long will it take?
Yes — replacing the drain pump on a WTW6700WT1 is a DIY-friendly repair for someone comfortable with basic hand tools. Plan 30–90 minutes: unplug washer, remove access panel, disconnect hoses and wiring, swap the pump, then reassemble and test. Always unplug the washer before starting and follow the step-by-step diagnostic checks first to avoid replacing a part that isn’t the issue.
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