WTW6120HW2 Washer Drive Belt — How to Diagnose and Replace
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Understanding the Problem
Brief overview: The drive belt (when present) transfers the motor's rotation to the washer transmission/drum. On models with a belt, a worn, glazed, stretched or broken belt will cause the washer to not spin or agitate, produce a loud squeal during operation, or emit a burning rubber smell. Below are step-by-step diagnostic and repair instructions. 1. Confirm whether your WTW6120HW2 actually uses a belt: consult the owner's manual, service manual, or the washer parts diagram (tech sheet). Some model variations use a belt while others are direct-drive; the easiest check is to remove the rear access panel to visually inspect for a belt. 2. Safety first: Unplug the washer from power. You do not usually need to shut off water for belt replacement, but move the washer away from the wall and protect the floor. 3. Access the belt: - Move the washer out and remove the rear access panel (usually held by screws). On some top-load models you may need to remove the cabinet or tilt the console forward to access the belt area. Keep fasteners organized. 4. Inspect the belt and related components: - Look for a broken belt, glazing (shiny surface), cracking, fraying, missing chunks, or oil/grease contamination. - Check the drum pulley (large pulley on the tub), motor pulley (small pulley on the motor), and any idler/tensioner for wear, damage, or seized bearings. Spin the motor pulley and drum by hand to feel for roughness. 5. Decide repair path: - If the belt is broken, glazed, stretched, or contaminated with oil/grease: replace the belt. - If pulleys or the idler are damaged or bearings are rough: replace those parts as well. - If you find no belt: the washer may be direct-drive; further diagnosis should focus on motor coupling, clutch, or transmission. 6. Remove the old belt: - Support the tub so it won’t shift. Rotate the drum until the belt is slack and slide it off the motor pulley and drum pulley. On some machines you may need to loosen motor mounting bolts to create slack. 7. Install the new belt: - Verify the replacement belt matches the old belt in length and profile (V-belt, micro-V, etc.). Route the belt around the drum pulley first, then around the motor pulley, ensuring it sits in the grooves properly and is not twisted. - If there is an idler/tensioner, make sure it engages the belt correctly and provides proper tension. Manually rotate the drum a few turns to seat the belt and check for proper tracking. 8. Reassemble and test: - Reinstall the rear panel or cabinet, reconnect power, and place the washer into a diagnostic spin/agitate cycle with a small load. Listen for squeals, check for slipping, and verify normal spin/agitation. 9. If symptoms persist after fitting a new belt: - Test the motor for proper operation, test the lid switch, inspect the clutch and transmission for damage or slipping, and check the control board for faults. Safety note: Always unplug the washer before accessing electrical components or removing panels. If you are not comfortable working around motors and pulleys, or if the transmission or motor appears faulty, consider hiring a qualified appliance technician.
Common Symptoms
Washer won't spin or agitate; loud squeal during spin; burning rubber smell; drum slips or spins intermittently; visible cracked or glazed belt.
Common Causes
- Worn, cracked, glazed, or broken drive belt
- Belt contaminated with oil/grease causing slip
- Damaged motor/drum pulley or failed idler/tensioner causing improper belt tension
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Helpful Repair Tip
Before ordering a belt, remove the rear access panel and take a clear photo of the existing belt and pulley arrangement. If no belt is present, your model is likely direct-drive and needs a different repair (motor coupling/clutch/transmission).
Frequently Asked Questions
How can I tell if my WTW6120HW2 uses a belt or is direct-drive?
Check the washer's tech sheet (usually taped to the back or behind the control console) or remove the rear access panel to look for a belt. If you see a looped rubber belt around the drum and motor pulley, your machine uses a belt. If there is no belt and the motor connects directly to the transmission, the washer is direct-drive and belt replacement is not applicable.
How long does it take and how much does it cost to replace the belt?
A belt replacement for a homeowner comfortable with tools typically takes 30–60 minutes. A replacement OEM or quality aftermarket belt commonly costs $15–$40. If additional parts (idler, pulleys) need replacing or if a technician is hired, labor and parts can raise the total to $100–$250 depending on location and work required.
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