WTW6120HW2 Washer Belt Replacement – What Part Fixes This Problem?
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Understanding the Problem
What this part does: The drive belt on a top-load washer transfers power from the motor to the transmission/pulley so the tub spins and agitates. On the Whirlpool WTW6120HW2 and similar Whirlpool/Cabrio-style washers, a worn, loose, or broken belt will prevent the tub from spinning or cause grinding, slipping, or burning-smell symptoms. Step-by-step diagnostic and repair steps: 1. Confirm the symptom: Does the washer fill and agitate but not spin? Is there a loud squeal, grinding noise, or burning smell during spin? These point to belt or pulley trouble. 2. Safety first: Unplug the washer and turn off the water supply. Always work on a de-energized appliance. 3. Access the belt: For most top-load Whirlpool models, tip the washer back (after removing the front lower access panel or clearances) or remove the rear panel to expose the motor and belt. Place a block under the front feet to prevent tipping, and if tipping the tub, have a helper. 4. Inspect the belt: Look for cracks, glazing (shiny hard areas), missing chunks, or belt slack. Also inspect the motor pulley and transmission pulley for wear and the idler/tensioner for seized bearings. 5. Test the motor/pulley spin: Manually rotate the motor pulley and transmission pulley. If they seize or are rough, the problem may be the motor or pulley bearings, not just the belt. 6. Remove the old belt: Loosen or remove any clips or mounts holding the idler/tensioner (if present). Slip the belt off the pulleys and remove it. 7. Compare belts: Place the new belt next to the old one to confirm length and profile match (ribbed vs. V-belt). Use the OEM part number for correct replacement. 8. Install the new belt: Route the new belt around the transmission/drum pulley first, then around the motor pulley, then over the idler/tensioner. Ensure ribs align in ribbed pulleys and the belt sits fully in pulley grooves. 9. Re-tension: Confirm the belt has proper tension. The idler should provide snug tension. You should be able to press the belt about 1/2 inch to 1 inch depending on design; it should not be floppy. 10. Spin test by hand: Rotate the tub or pulley to confirm smooth rotation and no binding. Reconnect power briefly (with panels still off if safe) to run a short spin cycle and confirm operation. 11. Reassemble: If operation is normal, reattach panels, return the washer to upright position, and run a normal cycle with a small load to verify. 12. If belt fails again: Re-inspect pulleys, idler, motor shaft, and transmission for bearing wear, roughness, or damage. Replace the faulty pulley or motor or transmission as needed. Safety note: Always unplug the washer before accessing internal parts. If you are uncomfortable tipping the washer or working near the motor, consider hiring a qualified appliance technician.
Common Symptoms
Washer fills but won't spin, loud squealing or rubbing sounds during spin, burning rubber smell, visible belt damage or belt sitting off the pulley.
Common Causes
- Normal wear and age—belt becomes cracked, glazed, or stretched
- Pulley or idler/tensioner bearings seized or worn, causing extra stress on the belt
- Foreign objects, overloads, or a jammed tub that cause the belt to slip or snap
Popular Parts That Fix This Problem
These are the most common replacement parts that fix this problem. When you're ready to order, click below to find the right part at ProsourceParts.com — just search by your appliance model number for a guaranteed fit.
Helpful Repair Tip
Confirm a broken belt by visually inspecting the rear of the washer for a loose or snapped belt and by trying to turn the drum by hand—if the drum doesn't resist and the motor pulley turns freely, the belt is likely broken or slipped off.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I know if the belt is the problem and not the motor or transmission?
Start by unplugging the washer and manually turning the drum and motor pulley. If the drum turns freely but the motor pulley turns with difficulty or is seized, the motor or pulley bearings may be the issue. If the motor turns but the drum does not (and you see a loose or broken belt), the belt is likely the culprit. Also inspect pulleys and the idler for roughness—if they are worn, replace them with the belt.
Can I replace the drive belt myself and how long will it take?
Yes—if you have basic hand tools (nut drivers, pliers, socket set) and are comfortable tipping the washer or removing the rear panel. Typical replacement takes 30–60 minutes. Always unplug the washer first, confirm the correct replacement belt number for your exact model, and follow the belt routing when installing. If the belt fails repeatedly after replacement, have a technician check pulleys, motor bearings, and the transmission.
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