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WTW5100HW0 Not Filling – How to Diagnose & Fix the Washer Fill Problem

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Understanding the Problem

Brief explanation: If your Whirlpool WTW5100HW0 washer won't fill (no water or very slow/partial fill), the cause is usually one of these: water supply shut off, clogged inlet screens, a failed water inlet valve (solenoid), a faulty water level/pressure switch or hose, lid switch issues, or an electronic control problem. The steps below walk you from simple user-level checks to safe electrical and part-level diagnostics and repair. Step-by-step diagnostic & repair instructions: 1) Confirm basic supply and settings - Make sure the hot and cold shutoff faucets behind the washer are fully open. Try running a sink or hose on the same supply line to confirm water pressure. - Check that the washer's water hoses are connected to the correct hot/cold taps and not kinked. - Verify you selected a cycle and temperature that requires fill (some cycles pre-wash or drain first behave differently). 2) Inspect inlet hoses and screens - Turn off both water shutoffs and unplug the washer. - Unscrew the two fill hoses from the washer. Look inside the machine inlet ports and the hose ends for small mesh filters (screens). Remove debris or mineral buildup. Clean screens with a brush. - While hoses are off, briefly open the water shutoff to check flow through the hoses into a bucket — this confirms house supply. 3) Check for visible obstruction or kink - Replace or straighten kinked hoses. If hoses are older, consider replacing with new reinforced hoses. 4) Run a short powered test (listen for inlet valve) - Reconnect hoses, turn water back on and plug in washer. - Start a fill-only or rinse/fill cycle and listen at the back of the washer near the water inlet valve when the machine should be filling. You should hear a distinct click/buzz from the valve when it energizes and water flow should begin within a second or two. - If you hear the valve but no water flows, the valve or its screens may be clogged/seized. If you hear nothing, the valve may not be getting power or is open/failed. 5) Access and test the water inlet valve (practical how-to) - Safety first: unplug washer and turn off water. - Move washer away from wall. Remove rear access panel (or top panel on some models) to access the inlet valve where hoses connect. - Visually inspect valve for leaks or corrosion. Disconnect electrical connectors from the valve coils. With a multimeter set to Ohms, measure resistance across each coil. Typical solenoid coils often measure in the low hundreds to low thousands of ohms (commonly ~400–1500Ω depending on valve design). A completely open/infinite reading indicates a failed coil. - If you can restore power (use caution): with washer plugged in and set to a fill cycle, carefully backprobe the valve coil plug with insulated probes to confirm voltage is present when the machine calls for water (usually 120VAC on many models). If voltage is present and valve does not open, replace the inlet valve. If no voltage is present, the problem is upstream (controls, wiring, pressure switch). 6) Check the water level pressure switch and pressure hose - On top-load washers, a small rubber hose runs from the tub to a pressure switch or sensor. Inspect that hose for pinches, kinks, or water inside it. If the hose is blocked or the switch/sensor is faulty, the washer may think it is full and never open the valve. - With the machine powered off, remove the hose and blow through it — it should be clear. You can also test the switch continuity as water level changes, but testing often requires referencing the tech sheet for exact pins and expected behavior. 7) Inspect lid switch / lid lock - On many top-load washers the lid must be closed and the lid switch engaged for the fill to proceed (or for subsequent agitation). Test the lid switch with a multimeter for continuity when depressed. Replace if faulty. 8) Run diagnostics and check control board - On Whirlpool machines you can enter diagnostic mode to check error codes related to water fill (consult the tech sheet for entry procedure specific to WTW5100HW0). If the control board fails to send voltage to the inlet valve despite correct sensor inputs, the control may be at fault. 9) Replace failed parts (how to fix) - Water inlet valve replacement: Turn off water and power, remove hoses, disconnect wiring and mounting screws, swap in the new valve, reconnect wiring and hoses, restore water and power and test. Replace valve if clogged/unresponsive or coils open. - Pressure switch/hoses: Replace cracked pressure hose or the switch if it fails continuity checks. Be sure to route the new hose exactly as the old one and secure connections. - Lid switch: Replace the assembly if it fails continuity when pressed. 10) Final test and verification - After repairs, run a full cycle through a couple of fills to verify normal operation and check for leaks. Safety note: - Always unplug the washer and turn off the water supply before doing internal diagnostics or removing panels. When measuring live voltage, use insulated tools and extreme caution—if you are not comfortable with live electrical tests, skip those steps and replace suspect parts or call a technician.

Common Symptoms

No water enters at start of cycle, very slow fill, fills only on one temperature (hot or cold), washer shows water-level or fill-related error codes, you hear no click from the inlet area when a fill should occur.

Common Causes

  • House water supply shutoff or low water pressure
  • Clogged or damaged inlet hose filters/screens
  • Failed water inlet valve (solenoid)
  • Blocked or disconnected water level (pressure) hose or bad pressure switch
  • Faulty lid switch or control board not commanding the valve

Popular Parts That Fix This Problem

These are the most common replacement parts that fix this problem. When you're ready to order, click below to find the right part at ProsourceParts.com — just search by your appliance model number for a guaranteed fit.

OEM/aftermarket numbers vary by supplier — confirm for WTW5100HW0. Common replacement listings show Water Inlet Valve (hot/cold)
Standard 3/4" hose fittings — buy new reinforced washer hoses; some kits referenced as WP4392067 (chFill Hoses with Screen Washers
Part numbers vary by production date — verify with model/serial. Look for pressure switch assembliesPressure Switch / Water Level Sensor (and pressure hose)
Common Whirlpool lidswitch assemblies vary; verify exact part for WTW5100HW0 on parts site or tech sLid Switch / Lid Lock Assembly
If all sensors and valve are good but valve never gets power, check model-specific control board parMain Control Board / Timer
Pro tip incoming! 🧠

Helpful Repair Tip

If the inlet valve solenoids are getting 120V when the washer calls for water but no water flows, the valve is bad—replace the valve assembly. If the valve doesn't get voltage, focus on the control board, lid switch, or pressure switch.

Frequently Asked Questions

How much does it cost to replace the water inlet valve on a WTW5100HW0?

Part cost: aftermarket inlet valves typically run $40–$120 depending on brand. Labor (if hiring a tech) is commonly $80–$200 depending on travel and shop rates. Replacement is straightforward for a confident DIYer: 30–60 minutes: shut off water/power, remove hoses, disconnect wiring and mounting screws, swap valve, reconnect and test.

My washer fills very slowly — is that the inlet valve or the house water supply?

First check house supply by disconnecting the hose and flowing water into a bucket. If flow is weak there, the issue is supply (shutoff partially closed, kinks, low municipal pressure). If supply flow is strong but washer still fills slowly when hose connected, check inlet screens for debris and the inlet valve for partial failure or mineral buildup; replace the valve if cleaning screens doesn't fix it.

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