WTW5057LW0 Lid Switch / Lid Actuator – What Part Fixes This Problem?
Need the replacement part? Search your model number at for guaranteed fit and fast free shipping.
Understanding the Problem
Brief explanation: On the Whirlpool top-load washer model WTW5057LW0 the lid switch (sometimes called a lid lock or lid actuator/strike) tells the washer the lid is closed and safe to spin. If the switch or actuator is broken the washer may refuse to start, stop mid-cycle, not spin or drain, or show an "LO"/lid error. Practical fix steps below. 1) Observe symptoms: Note whether the washer refuses to start, pauses before spin, or completes fill and agitate but fails to spin/drain. Listen for the lid switch clicking when you close the lid. 2) Preliminary checks (no tools): Close and open the lid slowly while trying to start a spin cycle. If the motor tries to engage only when you press hard on the lid, the lid strike or switch is loose/broken. 3) Access and visual inspection: Unplug the washer. Tilt the top slightly (on most Whirlpool top-loads, remove two screws at the back of the top, then lift the top up and prop it). Inspect the lid striker/actuator and the switch assembly for broken plastic, melted parts, or disconnected wiring. 4) Continuity test (multimeter): With the washer unplugged, disconnect the switch harness and use a multimeter set to continuity or ohms. Manually depress the switch actuator (or move the striker into the closed position). The switch should show continuity when actuated and open when released. No change = failed switch. 5) Voltage check (advanced): With the washer plugged in and a helper starting a cycle, back-probe the harness to the switch to confirm the control board is sending the expected signal (only do this if comfortable and experienced with live testing). If the control sends power but the switch doesn't signal, the switch is at fault. If no power, suspect the control board or wiring. 6) Replace the faulty component: If the switch or striker is visibly broken or fails continuity, replace it. Typical replacement steps: unplug washer; remove two screws at rear of top, lift top to access switch; remove screws securing the switch/lock assembly; disconnect wiring harness; remove old switch/strike and install new part; reconnect harness and reassemble top. Tighten screws and test a complete cycle. 7) Test after repair: Run a spin/drain cycle and several normal cycles to confirm normal operation. Verify lid closes firmly and switch clicks consistently. Safety note: Always unplug the washer before opening panels or performing continuity tests. When doing live voltage checks use insulated tools, keep hands clear of moving parts, and if unsure, call a qualified technician.
Common Symptoms
Washer won't start or won't spin; stops mid-cycle; intermittent start; no click from lid switch; "LO" or lid-related errors in diagnostics.
Common Causes
- Broken or worn lid switch (electrical failure or broken actuator tab)
- Damaged lid striker/actuator (plastic striker cracked or misaligned)
- Loose or corroded wiring/connector to the switch
- Faulty main control board not sending or reading the lid-closed signal
Popular Parts That Fix This Problem
These are the most common replacement parts that fix this problem. When you're ready to order, click below to find the right part at ProsourceParts.com — just search by your appliance model number for a guaranteed fit.
Helpful Repair Tip
With the lid open, press the lid striker (the plastic piece that hits the switch) toward the switch with your finger and try to start a spin cycle — if the machine starts, the switch/striker is likely faulty. Confirm with a multimeter continuity test.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I bypass the lid switch to get the washer to run?
You can temporarily test by bridging the switch connector to simulate a closed lid, but this is not a safe long-term fix. The lid switch is a safety device; bypassing it can allow the washer to spin with the lid open and risks injury. Replace the defective switch instead.
How difficult is it to replace the lid switch on a WTW5057LW0 and how much will it cost?
Difficulty: easy to moderate — most DIYers can replace it with a screwdriver and a multimeter in 20–45 minutes. Cost: part typically ranges from $15–$60 depending on source; expect an additional $50–$120 if hiring a technician (prices vary). Always confirm the exact replacement part for your model before purchasing.
Related How-To Videos
Real DIY Repair Stories
Be the first to share your repair story!
Share Your Repair Story
Your experience helps other homeowners fix their appliances. Tell us how it went!
Can't Fix It Yourself? Find a Local Technician
It's perfectly okay to call a professional. Some repairs require specialized tools, deep teardowns, or dealing with complex systems that are better left to the pros.
Find the Right Part for Your Appliance
Don't guess — search your exact appliance model number at ProsourceParts.com to find the correct OEM compatible replacement part. They offer fast free shipping, guaranteed fit, and thousands of parts in stock.
Your Free Parts Videos
Whether your dishwasher won't drain, your dryer stopped heating, or your fridge isn't cold, we've created simple repair guides for the most common appliance problems homeowners face. Each guide explains what's going wrong, the most likely causes, and which replacement parts fix the issue. When you're ready to order, we link directly to ProsourceParts.com where you can search by model number and get the right part shipped fast.