WTW5000DW2 Washer Drive Clutch, Pulley, Cam & Belt Kit — What Part Fixes This Problem?
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Understanding the Problem
Brief explanation: The drive clutch, pulley, cam (agitator cam) and drive belt are the parts that transfer motor power to the washer transmission and agitator on a Whirlpool-style top-load washer like the WTW5000DW2. When any of these parts wear or fail the washer may not agitate, may not spin properly, may slip under load, or may make squealing/grinding noises. Step-by-step diagnostic and repair steps: 1) Safety & prep - Unplug the washer from power. Turn off the water supply and move the machine away from the wall so you can work comfortably. - Have basic tools: socket set (including 7/16" and 3/8"), nut driver, flat screwdriver, needle-nose pliers, adjustable wrench, work gloves, towels and a shallow pan for residual water. 2) Initial diagnosis (quick checks) - Run a short spin/agitate cycle and listen: a high-pitched squeal often indicates a slipping belt or worn clutch; grinding or scraping indicates damaged pulley or clutch components. - Inspect the agitator action: if the washer powers on and spins but the agitator doesn’t move or moves weakly, suspect the agitator cam or clutch. - Check for a burning rubber smell during operation — typically a slipping clutch or belt. 3) Access the agitator and inner parts - Remove the fabric softener cap or agitator cap on top of the agitator by prying off the plastic cover with a flat screwdriver. - Remove the agitator retaining bolt (commonly 7/16") and lift the agitator straight up (may require a firm pull; some models have a separating clip or plastic cam that must be removed first). - With agitator removed, inspect the agitator cam (plastic splines/dogs). If the cam is chewed, cracked or the splines are worn, replace the cam included in the kit. 4) Access the clutch / belt / pulley assembly - Remove the washer cabinet top: typically there are two screws at the back of the top under the lip; slide the top toward the back and lift off. - Tip the machine back onto a blanket or support to access the underside (drain any remaining water first). Make sure it is stable and won’t fall. - Inspect the drive belt and pulley. A cracked, glazed or missing belt teeth = replace. A loose, shredded or glazed belt indicates clutch/pulley slipping. 5) Remove and inspect the clutch and pulley - Remove the motor mounting bolts and swing the motor out of the way (note how belt routing is set). On some models you can remove the belt by loosening the motor and slipping the belt off. - Remove the pulley/drive plate bolts and the clutch assembly from the transmission shaft. Some clutches slide off; others are held by retaining clips or bolts — keep track of hardware. - Inspect clutch shoes, friction surfaces, and the pulley hub for wear, heat glazing or broken pieces. 6) Replace worn parts (how to fix) - Install the new clutch assembly (or entire clutch kit) onto the transmission shaft the same way the old one came off. Replace any snap rings or retaining bolts and tighten to the same torque as original hardware. - Replace the drive pulley if included in the kit; ensure proper orientation. - Replace the drive belt: route it exactly as the old belt was routed. If uncertain, take a photo before removal for reference. - Replace the agitator cam/dogs and reinstall the agitator with its retaining bolt secured. - Reposition motor and tighten motor mounting bolts to set proper belt tension (belt should be snug but not overly tight). 7) Reassembly and test - Return washer to upright position, reconnect power and water (if you turned it off), and run a short cycle (no clothes) to verify agitation, spin and listen for abnormal noises. - Check for leaks and make sure the washer completes cycles and spins with normal speed. 8) Final checks & troubleshooting - If the washer still slips or you hear heavy grinding after installing the new kit, the transmission/gearcase could be damaged — clutch kits fix clutch/belt/pulley issues but not a failed transmission. Safety note: Always unplug the washer before working on electrical components or moving the cabinet. If you must tip the machine, secure it and work with a helper. If you’re not comfortable removing the transmission or dealing with heavy parts, call a professional technician.
Common Symptoms
Washer won’t agitate or spins weakly, squealing or burning rubber smell during cycles, agitator doesn’t turn or turns intermittently, belt is worn or shredded.
Common Causes
- Worn or glazed drive clutch shoes causing slip under load
- Cracked, stretched or broken drive belt
- Damaged or seized drive pulley or cam (agitator dog) preventing proper engagement
Popular Parts That Fix This Problem
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Helpful Repair Tip
Confirm the clutch is faulty by running the washer with the cabinet off: if the motor runs but the clutch/pulley only spins intermittently, slips under load, squeals or you see the belt slipping, the clutch/belt/pulley kit is likely required.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I replace just the belt instead of the whole kit?
Sometimes yes — if the belt is the only worn part (no slipping clutch, no damaged clutch shoes and the pulley and cam are intact), replacing just the belt can restore function. But clutches and cams often wear at the same time as the belt; buying the full clutch/pulley/cam/belt kit is usually the most reliable repair and saves repeat labor.
How do I know if the transmission (gearcase) is bad instead of the clutch?
If you install a new clutch/pulley/belt and the washer still makes loud grinding noises, won’t build torque under load, or the drum doesn’t turn properly even though the clutch engages, the transmission/gearcase may be failing. Also look for metal shavings in the washer tub or oil leaking from the gearcase — those are signs the transmission likely needs service or replacement.
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