WTW4900BW1 Pulley / Clutch / Cam Kit — What Parts Fix Drive/Agitation Problems
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Understanding the Problem
What this kit is for and why it matters: On Whirlpool top-load washers like the WTW4900BW1 a worn clutch, cam (agitator cam/shift mechanism) or drive pulley causes weak/no agitation, slipping, loud grinding, or failure to spin. The clutch transmits the motor’s torque to the inner tub/agitator during agitation; the cam and associated parts control engagement and direction changes; the pulley drives the transmission from the motor. Step-by-step diagnostic & repair steps: 1) Verify symptoms and isolate the drive: confirm washer fills and drains normally. If it fills/drains but won’t agitate or spins poorly, suspect clutch/cam/pulley rather than pump/timer/electronics. 2) Visual & manual checks: a. Open lid and run a short wash (no clothes) and watch/hear for slipping/clutch noise. Listen for grinding, screeching or a high-pitched slip during agitation/spin. b. Unplug the washer and tilt it back (or remove cabinet per your model) to inspect underside for oil/metal shavings around the clutch area or gearcase and for a cracked/broken pulley. 3) Remove the agitator and top cover to access the basket hub if needed: remove agitator cap, remove bolt(s) and pull the agitator straight up (some models require a puller or gentle prying after bolt removal). 4) Access the drive assembly: unplug washer, shut off water. Remove control console/console end caps and top or lift the cabinet (follow model-specific steps) to expose tub, drive belt/pulley and clutch area. 5) Inspect the pulley and belt: if the drive belt is worn, glazed or loose, replace it. Inspect pulley for cracks or worn bearing—replace if noisy or wobbling. 6) Inspect the clutch & cam: remove drive pulley (hold pulley and remove center bolt), then remove clutch assembly and cam. Look for worn friction pads, melted/resin buildup, heavy wear grooves or broken cam lobes. 7) Replace the kit: install the new cam, clutch plates and pulley per kit instructions (see replacement steps below). Ensure all friction faces are clean and install new fasteners/retainers in the correct orientation. 8) Reassemble and test: reinstall belt, motor/pulley, basket/agitator and cabinet. Run a test cycle with no clothes and verify agitation, spin and smooth shifting between agitate and spin. Basic replacement steps (practical how-to): 1) Tools: socket set (1/2" drive set often), nut drivers, Torx and Phillips drivers, needle-nose pliers, putty knife, rag, gloves, safety glasses, service manual or exploded parts diagram for WTW4900BW1. Helper recommended for lifting cabinet/tub. 2) Safety first: unplug washer, shut off water supplies, move washer away from wall. 3) Remove agitator: open cap, remove bolt and pull out agitator assembly. 4) Remove cabinet/top to access drive area: release spring clips or remove screws that secure the cabinet and lift off cabinet (follow model-specific cabinet removal procedure). 5) Remove belt (if present) and motor/pulley retaining fasteners. Support pulley and remove center nut to free pulley. 6) Remove old clutch and cam: take note of orientation and order of parts; remove clutch housing, friction plates, cam and any retaining clips or bolts. 7) Clean mating surfaces: remove dirt, grease and metal shavings from the tub hub and gearcase shaft. Inspect gearcase for leaks—if the gearcase is leaking oil or shows major damage, it may need replacement instead of just clutch. 8) Install new cam/clutch/pulley kit: assemble components in the reverse order using new parts from the kit. Torque fasteners to spec if you have the manual; snug and secure otherwise but avoid over-torquing plastic components. 9) Reinstall belt, motor (if removed), cabinet and agitator. Reconnect power and water. 10) Test: run an empty cycle through agitation and spin. Confirm there is no slipping, no unusual noise, and the washer moves through agitation/spin correctly. Safety note: Always unplug the washer and turn off water before disassembling. Use eye protection for springs and clips; some parts are under spring tension. If you are not comfortable working under the tub or with the washer’s cabinet removal, hire a repair technician.
Common Symptoms
Washer won’t agitate or agitator slips; washer makes grinding, screeching or scraping noises during agitation; washer spins but doesn’t agitate; visible wear or melted material on clutch/cam; belt/pulley wobble or break.
Common Causes
- Worn clutch friction pads that can no longer grab the basket hub
- Broken/cracked drive pulley or worn drive belt causing slippage
- Worn or damaged cam/shift mechanism that fails to engage/disengage properly
Popular Parts That Fix This Problem
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Helpful Repair Tip
Before replacing parts, try the drip test: with the basket turned by hand, rotate slowly and feel for rough spots or heavy resistance; clutch slipping will usually be heard as a squeal during a loaded agitation cycle. Also check underside for metal shavings/oil—metal shavings indicate clutch wear or gearcase damage.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I replace the clutch and pulley myself or should I call a technician?
If you have basic mechanical skills, a socket set, and follow the model-specific steps, you can replace the clutch, cam and pulley yourself. Expect 1–3 hours depending on experience. If you’re uncomfortable removing the cabinet/tub or see gearcase oil leakage (a sign the transmission/gearcase may be failing), call a technician.
How do I confirm the clutch is the problem and not the motor or transmission?
Symptoms that point to the clutch: washer fills and drains, motor runs, but the agitator slips or there’s a high-pitched squeal during agitation. If the motor runs and you can see/feel the motor turning but the tub/agitator aren’t turning properly, that suggests clutch/pulley/belt. Metal shavings, melted friction material, or smoky burnt smell under the washer also indicate clutch failure. If the motor doesn’t run at all, or you have electrical error codes, investigate motor, lid switch, or control board first.
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