For educational purposes only. Always consult a certified technician when unsure.

WPSE7003AOW Surface Heating Element – What Part Fixes This Problem?

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Understanding the Problem

What this part likely is: WPSE7003AOW appears to be a Whirlpool-style surface (radiant) heating element part code used on electric smooth-top ranges. These elements are the round radiant coils under the glass-ceramic cooktop that produce heat for your pots and pans. Common problems fixed by replacing this part include a burner that won’t heat, erratic heating, or a visible burned/broken element. Step-by-step diagnostic and repair steps: 1) Confirm the part and appliance: check your appliance model number (usually on the frame behind the oven door or on the back) and compare the element part number stamped on the old element or on parts diagrams online. If you're not sure WPSE7003AOW matches your appliance, take a photo of the element and terminal block and compare. 2) Safety first: disconnect power at the breaker panel (turn the range breaker off). Verify power is off with a non-contact voltage tester at the cooktop terminals. 3) Visual inspection: look for visible breaks in the element, burn marks at the terminals, or discoloration on the bottom of the glass cooktop. If you see physical damage, the element should be replaced. 4) Test for continuity: remove the element (or disconnect its connectors) and use a multimeter set to the ohms range. A healthy radiant element typically shows a low resistance in the tens of ohms (exact value depends on wattage). If the meter reads OL (open) the element is open and bad. If it reads near 0 ohms it may be shorted (rare) or have internal short to ground—also bad. 5) Check related components: if the element tests good but won’t heat, test the infinite switch (the burner control switch) and the terminal block connections for continuity and secure contacts. A failed switch or burned terminal can cause no-heat symptoms. 6) Replacement steps (basic): a) With power off, allow the cooktop to cool completely. b) Depending on range design, open the oven door and remove screws securing the cooktop, or pull the range out and remove the back screws to raise the cooktop. Follow your model’s service manual if available. c) Lift the cooktop enough to access the element terminals. Support the cooktop so it doesn’t fall. d) Take a photo of wire positions, then gently pull off the quick-connect terminals at the element. e) Remove the element assembly from its mounting (it may lift out or unscrew depending on style) and install the replacement WPSE7003AOW—seat it the same way the old one sat. f) Reattach the quick-connect terminals to the same positions, lower the cooktop back into place and resecure any screws. g) Restore power and test the new element on low and high settings using a small amount of water in a pan to confirm heating. Safety note: Always cut power at the breaker and verify it's off before touching terminals. If you are not comfortable with electrical testing or lifting the cooktop, hire a qualified technician.

Common Symptoms

Burner doesn’t heat or heats intermittently, visible break or burn on the heating element, tripping breaker or scorch marks near terminals.

Common Causes

  • Open (broken) heating element coil due to normal wear or overheating
  • Burned or loose terminal connections at the cooktop terminal block
  • Failed infinite (burner) switch or control that stops power to the element

Popular Parts That Fix This Problem

These are the most common replacement parts that fix this problem. When you're ready to order, click below to find the right part at ProsourceParts.com — just search by your appliance model number for a guaranteed fit.

WPSE7003AOWSurface/radiant heating element
WP34003613 (example Whirlpool terminal block part — verify for your model)Cooktop terminal block (recommended to inspect/replace if terminals burned)
WP8264707 (common Whirlpool infinite switch — verify for your model)Infinite burner control switch (if element tests good but no heat)
Pro tip incoming! 🧠

Helpful Repair Tip

Confirm the part by comparing the shape of the element, the number and orientation of terminals, and the printed part number on the old element. Use a multimeter: a healthy element usually shows a resistance in the tens of ohms; an open reading (OL) means the element is failed.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I know if the element is bad or the control switch is bad?

Test the element first by disconnecting it and checking continuity with a multimeter. If the element shows open (no continuity) replace the element. If the element has continuity, test the infinite/burner switch for continuity when turned on; if the switch doesn’t pass voltage to the element when set to a heat position, the switch is likely faulty.

Can I replace the element myself and how long will it take?

Yes, most handy homeowners can replace a surface heating element. Typical job time is 30–60 minutes: shut power off, lift or remove the cooktop per your model, disconnect the element, swap in the new unit, reattach wires and secure the cooktop. If you’re uncomfortable with electrical work or removing the cooktop, hire a pro.

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