Whirlpool WTW5200VQ2 Won't Start Except in Spin – What Part Fixes This?
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Understanding the Problem
Brief explanation: Your Whirlpool WTW5200VQ2 that only starts in the Spin position when the pull-to-start knob is pulled is a common symptom of a control or motor start-path problem. Spin uses a different motor circuit and timer contacts than agitate/wash, so when spin works but other cycles don’t, the fault is usually in the start switch/console, the timer/control, lid switch/wiring, or the motor’s start winding or speed-selection circuit. Step-by-step diagnostic and repair steps: 1) Safety first: unplug the washer or turn off the breaker before opening the cabinet or testing wiring. 2) Observe and reproduce the symptom: select a normal wash cycle, pull the knob and note if any sounds (clicks, hums) occur. Then set to Spin, pull knob and confirm it runs reliably. 3) Check the lid/latch: ensure the lid closes fully and the lid switch actuates. A defective lid switch can prevent motor start for some cycles. Manually press the lid switch with the lid closed and retry cycle. 4) Check for error lights/codes: some models flash codes on the console. Record and look up codes in the tech sheet (usually behind the control console) — these can point to lid lock, motor, or control faults. 5) Inspect the start/pull knob switch (console start switch): the pull-to-start knob is actually a start switch. Remove the console and inspect the switch and wiring for burned contacts, loose connectors, or corrosion. Use a multimeter to check continuity of the start switch when pulled. If the switch has no continuity in wash/agitate positions but does for spin, replace the switch/console assembly. 6) Test the timer/control: With the timer/console set to a wash/agitate position and the start knob pulled, check for voltage at the motor/drive connector as you start the cycle (with power applied—use extreme caution). If the start switch is good but there is no drive voltage except in spin, the timer or main control is not sending the start signal and likely needs replacement. 7) Test the lid switch continuity: remove connectors and check continuity when the lid is closed. If the lid switch is intermittent or open when it should be closed, replace it. Some machines will spin even with a faulty lid switch, which explains why spin can work while wash does not. 8) Test the drive motor: If the control is sending voltage but the motor doesn’t start in wash/agitate, measure motor windings resistance per the tech sheet. Many motors have separate start/low-speed windings or a centrifugal switch. If spin high-speed winding works but low-speed/start winding is open, replace the motor (or motor start device if used). 9) Inspect wiring and connectors between console/timer, lid switch, and motor. Wiggle test connectors while attempting to start to find intermittent faults. 10) Replace the faulty part: once you identify the failed component (start switch/console, timer/control, lid switch, motor), order the OEM part and replace following the removal steps below. Basic replacement instructions (generalized): - Start/switch or console: unplug washer, remove top console (usually held by clips or screws at rear), disconnect ribbon/wire connectors, remove the knob and console screws, swap the console or start switch and reconnect wiring, reassemble. - Lid switch: unplug washer, remove console/top per model instructions, locate lid switch assembly (near hinge), disconnect the connector, remove mounting screws, install new switch and reconnect. - Timer/control board: unplug, remove console to access control board, disconnect all connectors (mark them), remove mounting screws and replace with new board, reconnect exactly, reassemble. - Motor: unplug, remove cabinet front or access panel, disconnect motor wiring, remove belt/clutch/drive components as needed, unbolt motor from bracket and install replacement. Reassemble and test. Ending safety note: Always disconnect power before accessing internal components. If you are not experienced with live-voltage testing, have a qualified technician perform voltage checks. Using incorrect parts or unsafe practices can cause electric shock or further damage.
Common Symptoms
Washer will not start in Wash/Agitate/Fill cycles when the pull-to-start knob is pulled; machine will start and run in Spin position. No or intermittent clicking; sometimes no motor noise at start.
Common Causes
- Faulty start/pull-to-start switch or console assembly
- Defective timer/main control board not closing start contacts for wash/agitate
- Bad lid switch or lid switch wiring (intermittent or open)
- Drive motor start winding/centrifugal switch failure or motor fault
- Broken wiring harness or loose/corroded connectors between control, lid switch, and motor
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Helpful Repair Tip
If Spin runs but Agitate/Wash does not, quickly test the start switch by bypassing it (momentarily) or checking continuity: if bypassing the start switch allows the motor to run in wash, the start switch/console is the culprit.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I run the washer with the lid switch bypassed to test the motor?
You can temporarily bypass the lid switch for a quick diagnostic (unplug washer first, disconnect lid switch and carefully connect the two wires that go to the switch), but do not run the washer with the bypass in place for normal use. Bypassing disables a key safety feature and can be dangerous. Use the bypass only briefly to confirm the switch is the issue, then replace the lid switch.
How do I know whether the timer/control or the motor is bad?
Start by checking for voltage at the motor when attempting to start a wash/agitate cycle: if the control sends the correct voltage and the motor doesn't respond, the motor is faulty. If there is no voltage from the control during wash/agitate (but there is during spin), the timer or main control is the likely culprit. Also test the start switch and lid switch continuity first—these small parts frequently cause similar symptoms and are cheaper to replace.
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