Whirlpool WTW5200VQ2 Won't Start Except in Spin Mode – What to Check and How to Fix It
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Understanding the Problem
Brief explanation: If your Whirlpool WTW5200VQ2 only runs when set to Spin (but does not start wash/fill/agitate cycles when you pull out the start/selector knob), the problem is usually not the motor itself (because spin uses the same motor). More often it’s a control or sensing issue: the timer/start mechanism, the water fill/pressure switch that tells the machine to advance, the inlet valve, or a failed selector/timer/contact that doesn’t send power to the motor during the wash/agitate portion. Step-by-step diagnostics and repair (practical how-to): 1) Safety & initial checks - Unplug the washer before opening panels or testing continuity. - Turn off water supply if you will remove the inlet valve. - Have a multimeter, nut drivers, and a non-contact voltage tester ready. 2) Reproduce and observe - Set the machine to a normal wash cycle, pull the start/selector knob and watch/listen: a) Does the washer fill with water? (You should hear water flow and see the tub filling.) b) If it fills, does the timer advance or the motor attempt to agitate? If it fills and does not agitate, note that. c) If it does not fill but Spin mode still works, that points to a fill/pressure/selector problem. 3) Check for water fill issues (common cause) - If the washer doesn’t fill: check inlet screens and hoses for clogs; remove hoses and inspect screens. - With the machine set to fill, plug it in and carefully measure for 120VAC at the inlet valve solenoids while a cycle is calling for fill. Use a non-contact tester first, then meter. - If there is 120VAC at the valve and no water, replace the inlet valve. - If there is no 120VAC, the control/timer/pressure switch is not calling for fill. 4) Check the pressure switch / water level sensor - The pressure switch tells the washer when enough water is present to move to agitate. If it’s stuck or the pressure hose is clogged/leaking, the washer may never advance. - Inspect the small rubber hose from the tub to the pressure switch. Remove it and blow through it — it should flow freely. Check the switch for continuity and operation (multimeter continuity as you gently blow to simulate water level). Replace the pressure switch if it doesn’t change state. 5) Check the start/push-to-start switch and timer/selector - Many Whirlpool top-loaders use a mechanical timer or a push/pull start that closes contacts to supply the motor during wash. With the washer unplugged, remove the control panel and inspect the start switch and timer for loose/burned contacts or broken plastic cam parts. - Test the start switch for continuity when the knob is pulled out. If there’s no continuity, replace the start switch assembly. - Inspect the timer/selector for burned contacts or corrosion. If the motor doesn’t receive voltage for agitate (but does for spin), the timer contacts for the agitate portion have likely failed. Replace the timer/selector if defective. 6) Check for motor drive/selector issues (if machine fills but won’t agitate) - With the washer calling for agitate, measure voltage at the motor terminals. If you have 120VAC during spin but not during agitate, the control/timer/selector is not switching power to the motor for agitate — replace timer/selector or control board as appropriate. - If you have voltage but the motor doesn’t agitate, inspect the transmission/clutch (on machines with belts/clutches) or motor coupling. On many WTW models the clutch or gearcase can fail and prevent agitation even if motor spins freely in spin mode. 7) Inspect lid switch / lid lock - Although spin works (so lid switch is likely okay), some washers behave differently depending on which cycle is selected. Test the lid switch for continuity with lid closed. Replace if open when it should be closed. 8) Final repair steps - Replace failed component identified in steps above: inlet valve, pressure switch, start switch, timer/selector, or clutch/gearcase. Use OEM replacement parts where possible and follow step-by-step removal instructions from the part's service sheet. - After replacement, reassemble, restore power and water, and run a full cycle to confirm normal operation. Safety note: Always unplug the washer before accessing internal parts and be careful testing live voltage — if you’re not comfortable with electrical testing, hire a qualified appliance technician.
Common Symptoms
Washer will not start wash/fill/agitate cycles when start knob is pulled; Spin cycle still runs; washer may or may not fill with water; no agitation; timer may not advance.
Common Causes
- Faulty timer/selector or start/push-to-start switch that fails to send power for agitate
- Defective water inlet valve or clogged inlet/filters preventing fill (so cycle won't advance)
- Bad pressure (water-level) switch or kinked/blocked pressure hose preventing the machine from detecting water level
- Mechanical failure in the drive/clutch/transmission preventing agitation even though spin works
- Faulty lid switch or door lock (less likely if spin runs, but still possible)
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Helpful Repair Tip
To confirm the selector/timer is at fault: with the washer calling for agitate, measure voltage at the motor. If there’s 120VAC during spin but no voltage during the wash/agitate stage while the timer is set, the timer/selector or start switch is likely bad.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why does the washer spin but won’t wash or agitate?
Spin and agitation use the same motor but are driven through different contacts or mechanical linkages. If spin works, the motor itself is fine. The machine not agitating usually means the control (timer/selector/start switch) is not supplying power during the wash stage, the pressure switch isn’t telling the machine it’s full of water, the inlet valve didn’t fill, or a mechanical coupling/clutch that engages agitate has failed.
Can I test the timer/selector myself or do I need a technician?
You can do basic checks yourself: observe whether the washer fills and listen for the motor trying to run; inspect the pressure hose for clogs; test start switch and pressure switch for continuity with a multimeter (unplugged). Measuring live voltage at motor or valve requires care — if you’re comfortable and know safe procedures, it’s possible, but if not, hire a qualified appliance technician to avoid risk of shock or damage.
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