Whirlpool WTW5200VQ2 Won't Start Except in Spin Mode – What to Check and How to Fix It
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Understanding the Problem
Brief explanation: Your Whirlpool WTW5200VQ2 starting only in spin mode usually means the machine is not completing the start-safety or control path for wash/agitate cycles. Spin-only operation often uses a different set of control contacts and can run while the washer refuses to enter fill/agitate/rinse because of a faulty lid switch, start (pull) switch or timer/control contacts, or a wiring issue. Step-by-step diagnostic & repair steps: 1) Reproduce and observe - Try a full cycle and pull the start knob. Note exactly what happens: does the washer make any sound (click, hum), does the drain pump run, does water valve energize, does the motor try to agitate? Then set to Spin and pull the knob — confirm spin ALWAYS runs. 2) Check the lid switch / lid lock - Why: The washer will not start agitate/fill if the lid switch doesn’t signal the control that the lid is closed. Spin-only sometimes bypasses or uses different signals. - How to test: Unplug the washer. Open the top lid and locate the lid switch (usually under the top rim near the front). With the lid closed (or pressing the switch actuator), use a multimeter to check continuity of the lid switch. If the switch has no continuity when engaged, replace it. - How to replace (overview): Unplug washer, remove screws holding the top panel or console (model-specific), access and disconnect the lid switch harness, remove the switch, install replacement, reassemble, test. 3) Test the start/pull switch and timer/control knob - Why: The pull-to-start mechanism or timer contacts can fail. If pressing/pulling does not close the start circuit, the washer won’t proceed except in modes where a different contact path (spin) is used. - How to test: With power off, access the control assembly and check the start/pull switch for continuity when actuated. If the switch shows intermittent/no continuity, replace the switch/knob assembly or the entire console control module. 4) Inspect wiring and connectors - Why: Loose, burnt or corroded connectors between lid switch, start switch, timer and motor will prevent start in some cycles. - How to test: Visually inspect harnesses and spade connectors for burn marks, corrosion, broken wires. Tug-test connectors gently. Repair or replace damaged wiring and connectors. 5) Verify control/timer outputs under live conditions (advanced) - Why: To confirm whether the timer/control is sending voltage to the motor or water valve when Start is pulled in wash mode. - How to test safely: With the washer plugged in and controls set, use a voltmeter to measure for line voltage (careful—live test). When you pull the start knob in a wash/agitate cycle you should see voltage at the motor or to the motor relay; if you do not, the timer/control is likely bad. 6) Check the motor and motor connections (if other tests pass) - Why: If the motor spins in spin mode but won’t agitate, the motor’s start/agitator winding or the control that switches motor direction may be faulty. - How to test: With washer unplugged, check motor windings for continuity per service manual. If motor has evidence of overheating, burning or abnormal resistance values, replace the motor. 7) Replace likely failed parts - Replace lid switch or lid lock assembly if it fails continuity or behaves intermittently. - Replace start/pull switch (or entire console/timer assembly) if the switch is faulty or if voltage tests show the control isn’t sending power in wash modes. - Replace wiring harness sections or connectors that are damaged. How to fix (concise repair steps for common parts): - Lid switch replacement: Unplug washer, remove top panel screws (or console depending on model), locate and disconnect the lid switch harness, remove the switch, install the replacement, reconnect, reassemble, test. - Start/pull switch or timer replacement: Unplug washer, remove console screws, label and disconnect all harnesses, remove timer/control assembly, install new part, reconnect harnesses exactly as removed, reassemble and test. - Wiring repair: Cut out corroded/shorted sections, crimp and solder new wire with heat-shrink, or replace connector blocks. Ensure secure spade connections. Safety note: Always unplug the washer and turn off water before doing inspections or repairs. For live voltage testing use insulated tools, one-hand technique, and if you’re not comfortable with mains voltage testing, call a professional.
Common Symptoms
Will not start (no fill, no agitation) when pulling the start knob except it will run in Spin mode; no response or only drain/pump activity; sometimes a click but no motor run in wash cycles.
Common Causes
- Faulty lid switch / lid lock assembly (no continuity or intermittent)
- Failed start/pull switch or timer/console contacts
- Broken wiring or bad connectors between lid switch, timer and motor
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Helpful Repair Tip
To confirm the lid switch: with the washer unplugged, temporarily jumper the lid switch connector (or press the switch actuator) and try starting a wash cycle. If the washer starts, the lid switch is the likely culprit.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why will the washer run only in Spin but not in Wash or Rinse?
Spin mode often uses a different set of control contacts and can operate when other safety/starting circuits are open. If wash/rinse require the lid switch or a specific timer contact that is open or intermittent, the washer won’t start those cycles but may still spin. This points to a lid switch, start switch, timer/console contact, or wiring fault.
Can I bypass the lid switch to make the washer run?
You can temporarily jumper the lid switch for testing to confirm it’s the problem, but bypassing it permanently is dangerous and illegal in some places because the lid switch is a safety device. Replace a failed lid switch rather than bypassing it for regular use.
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