Whirlpool WTW5200VQ2 Won't Start Except in Spin – What Part Fixes This Problem?
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Understanding the Problem
Problem overview: Your Whirlpool WTW5200VQ2 will not start most cycles when you pull the control/selector knob out (to start), but it does run when set to the Spin position. That behavior usually means the motor, power supply and some timer contacts are OK (because spin is powered), while the control elements that supply motor power for other cycles are not closing. Common failing items are the timer/selector (rotary switch), the start/selector switch or the lid switch/wiring. Follow these diagnostic and repair steps to find and fix the fault. Step-by-step diagnostic and repair: 1) Safety first - Unplug the washer or turn off the breaker before doing any work. Confirm power is off with a non-contact voltage tester. 2) Verify symptom and reproduce safely - With the lid closed, set the washer to a regular wash cycle, pull the knob out to Start. Confirm it does not run. Then set to Spin and pull knob out; it runs. Confirming this helps focus on the control/timer circuit rather than motor or drivetrain. 3) Check the lid/lid-lock switch (quick test) - The washer won’t start if the lid switch is open. Locate the lid switch (under the top panel near the lid strike). Press it manually and listen for a click or test for continuity with a multimeter. If the lid switch is open (no continuity when pressed), replace it. If the spin cycle runs but wash does not, lid switch is less likely but still check. 4) Inspect start/selector knob and start switch - Many Whirlpool washers use a push/pull knob or separate start switch. Remove the control knob and console trim (power off first) to access the switch. Inspect for broken plastic, burned contacts, or loose wiring. Test the start switch for continuity while operating it. If the switch fails to make continuity when pulled/pressed, replace the switch/knob assembly. 5) Test the timer / rotary selector (most likely) - Because the machine will spin, motor and power are available. The timer or rotary selector controls power routing for the wash and other cycles. Remove the top or control panel to access the timer. With power ON (use extreme caution or have an assistant), measure for 120VAC at the timer motor/common terminal and at the output terminals when you pull the knob out in different cycle positions. If you see voltage only on the spin contact and not on wash/agitate contacts, the timer contacts are likely worn or failed. - Alternatively, remove power and use an ohmmeter to test continuity across timer contacts in the Spin position vs. a Wash position. If contacts are dead in wash positions, replace the timer/selector. 6) Inspect wiring harness and connectors - Look for chafed insulation, burnt connectors, or loose connectors between the timer, lid switch, start switch, and motor. Repair or replace damaged wiring/harness as needed. 7) Replace the faulty component - If timer/selector is bad: order the correct replacement timer for WTW5200VQ2 (see parts section). To replace: unplug washer; remove control panel/top to access timer; note and label every connector; remove retaining screws and pull out the timer; transfer knob and install the new timer; reconnect harness, reassemble and test. - If start switch or lid switch is bad: unplug, remove the console or top, disconnect the switch, and swap in the replacement. Reassemble and test. 8) Final testing - Reconnect power, run a full wash cycle and confirm the washer starts and progresses to fill, agitate, drain and spin. Check for unusual noises or error codes. Safety note: - Working on appliances involves live voltage checks and mechanical disassembly. If you are not comfortable or lack the proper tools (multimeter, screwdrivers, safe work practices), hire a qualified appliance technician. Practical how-to fix summary: - Because the washer runs only in Spin, start by checking the lid switch and start/selector switch for continuity. If those are good, the timer/rotary selector is the most likely failed part and should be tested and replaced if its contacts do not provide power in wash modes.
Common Symptoms
Washer won’t start or begin wash cycle when you pull the start/selector knob out; Spin runs normally; no agitation/filling/draining except in Spin position; no error codes.
Common Causes
- Worn or failed timer/rotary selector (most likely)
- Faulty start/selector switch or pull-to-start knob assembly
- Open or faulty lid/lid-lock switch
- Damaged wiring or bad connector between controls and motor
- Control board failure (less common if only one selector contact fails)
Popular Parts That Fix This Problem
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Helpful Repair Tip
Quick confirm: with the washer powered on and set to Spin vs Wash, carefully measure whether 120VAC appears at the timer’s output terminal for Wash when you pull the knob. No voltage in Wash but voltage in Spin points to a bad timer/selector.
Frequently Asked Questions
If the washer runs in Spin, does that mean the motor is fine?
Yes — if the washer runs in Spin, the motor, drive and basic power supply are functioning. The problem is usually in the control path that supplies power for wash/agitate cycles (timer, start switch, lid switch, or wiring). That narrows the diagnosis toward control components rather than the motor or gearbox.
Can I temporarily bypass a bad lid switch or timer to get the washer to run?
Technically some people jump the lid switch to confirm the switch is the issue, but bypassing safety interlocks or timers is not recommended for regular use because it defeats safety features and can create fire or injury hazards. Use a bypass only for brief diagnostic tests, with the washer unplugged when changing wiring, and replace the faulty component as soon as possible.
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