Whirlpool WTW5105HWO Washer — Common Problems & Repair Guide
Need the replacement part? Search your model number at for guaranteed fit and fast free shipping.
Understanding the Problem
This guide covers the most common service issues for the Whirlpool WTW5105HWO top-load washer: not draining, not spinning, not filling, leaking, unusual noises, and error codes. For each symptom you'll find likely causes and step-by-step diagnostic and repair instructions so you can identify the faulty component and fix it. 1) Start with simple checks common to many problems: - Unplug the washer or switch off power at the breaker before doing any work. - Confirm the symptom (e.g., no spin vs. no drain). - Run a quick diagnostic cycle (see diagnostics section below) and note any error codes. - Have basic tools ready: multimeter, pliers, nut drivers, flashlight, towels or a small container for water. 2) Not draining or standing water after cycle — likely causes: clogged pump/filter, failed drain pump, kinked/blocked drain hose, or bad control board. Diagnostic & repair steps: a) Remove power and pull washer away from wall. b) Inspect the drain hose for kinks and obstructions; disconnect the hose and blow through it to confirm flow. c) Check the pump inlet and housing for debris (coins, fabric, lint). If accessible, remove the lower access panel and visually inspect the drain pump. d) Test the drain pump electrically: set multimeter to continuity/ohms and measure across the pump terminals. A very high or infinite reading suggests an open pump motor. e) If the pump is jammed, try manually turning the impeller (with power off). If impeller spins freely but pump doesn't run during a drain cycle, replace the pump. f) Replace pump: disconnect power, drain remaining water, disconnect hoses and wiring, remove pump mounting screws/clips and swap in the replacement pump. Reassemble and test. 3) Washer won’t spin or completes spin but clothes are very wet — likely causes: lid lock/switch failure, drive system (belt/coupling/motor), control board, or unbalanced load. Diagnostic & repair steps: a) Ensure loads are balanced and try a spin-only cycle with a small load. b) Listen during the spin cycle: do you hear the motor run? If you hear humming or nothing, suspect motor or coupling. c) Check the lid lock/lock switch: if the washer doesn’t think the lid is closed it will refuse to spin. Inspect the latch for damage and test switch continuity with a multimeter. d) Inspect drive components: belt (if present) for wear, or motor coupling for broken plastic teeth. Replace worn/broken parts. e) If the motor hums and does not run, test the motor windings for continuity and check the start capacitor (if equipped) or motor centrifugal switch. Replace the failing component. 4) Washer won’t start or has intermittent power — likely causes: blown fuse/circuit breaker, faulty lid switch, faulty start switch, door lock, or control board. Diagnostic & repair steps: a) Confirm the washer has 120V at the outlet. b) Inspect the house breaker and outlet. c) Test the lid switch or door lock for continuity. d) If controls are completely unresponsive but outlet has power, the control board or user interface may be defective — look for burn marks or swollen capacitors. Replace the user interface or main control board as needed. 5) Leaks — likely causes: loose hose clamps, drain hose kinked/damaged, detergent drawer overflow, pump gasket, tub-to-pump hoses, or cracked tubs. Diagnostic & repair steps: a) Run a short cycle and observe where water appears (front, back, underneath). b) Tighten hose clamps and check hose condition. c) Remove lower access panel and inspect pump seals and hoses for leaks. d) If leak originates from tub/crack or from the pump housing, replace the damaged component. 6) Loud noises or grinding — likely causes: foreign object in tub/pump, worn tub bearing, bad motor coupling, or worn gearcase. Diagnostic & repair steps: a) Run a spin and listen closely to localize the noise. b) Inspect the pump and clutch area for coins, bra hooks, and debris. c) If noise is a loud rumble during spin, suspect a failing tub bearing. Replacing bearings is labor-intensive and may warrant replacing the entire tub or calling a pro. 7) Error codes and diagnostics — common Whirlpool codes: F02 (drain issue), F7E1 (motor-driven problems), etc. a) Enter service diagnostics to read codes (usually a sequence of control panel button presses — check your manual for WTW5105HWO exact procedure). b) Note the codes and follow the specific troubleshooting for each code (e.g., F02 = check drain pump and hoses). 8) Final testing: after any repair, reassemble panels, restore power, and run a full wash and drain cycle to confirm the issue is resolved. Safety note: Always disconnect power before touching internal components, and be careful when working around water. If a repair requires disassembling the tub, handling heavy components, or working with sealed gearcases/bearings, consider hiring a qualified technician.
Common Symptoms
Will not drain/hold water, won't spin or spins intermittently, won't start, leaks from bottom, loud grinding or rumbling during spin, control panel error codes.
Common Causes
- Clogged or kinked drain hose, or trapped debris in the drain pump
- Faulty drain pump or motor coupling
- Defective lid lock/switch or control board
- Worn bearings, damaged tub, or foreign object in pump/tub
- Loose or damaged hoses and hose clamps
Popular Parts That Fix This Problem
These are the most common replacement parts that fix this problem. When you're ready to order, click below to find the right part at ProsourceParts.com — just search by your appliance model number for a guaranteed fit.
Helpful Repair Tip
Run a drain/spin cycle while listening at the back lower-right area of the washer: a working pump makes a distinct motor whir and water flow noise. If you hear humming but no water movement, the pump is likely jammed or the impeller is stripped.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I check error codes on my WTW5105HWO?
Enter the washer’s service/diagnostic mode (button sequence varies by model). In diagnostics you can run tests and view stored fault codes. If you don't have the exact sequence, consult the service manual or look up "WTW5105HWO diagnostic mode" for the step-by-step button presses. Record any codes and use them to target components (e.g., F02 = drain issue).
Can I replace the drain pump or lid switch myself?
Yes — both are common homeowner repairs. Always unplug the washer and turn off water. For the drain pump: drain remaining water, remove the lower access panel, disconnect hoses and wiring, unmount the pump and install the replacement. For the lid switch: remove the control console or top panel (depending on the model), disconnect the old switch wiring and replace with OEM part. If you're uncomfortable removing heavier components or diagnosing motor/gearcase issues, call a professional.
Related How-To Videos
Real DIY Repair Stories
Be the first to share your repair story!
Share Your Repair Story
Your experience helps other homeowners fix their appliances. Tell us how it went!
Can't Fix It Yourself? Find a Local Technician
It's perfectly okay to call a professional. Some repairs require specialized tools, deep teardowns, or dealing with complex systems that are better left to the pros.
Find the Right Part for Your Appliance
Don't guess — search your exact appliance model number at ProsourceParts.com to find the correct OEM compatible replacement part. They offer fast free shipping, guaranteed fit, and thousands of parts in stock.
Your Free Parts Videos
Whether your dishwasher won't drain, your dryer stopped heating, or your fridge isn't cold, we've created simple repair guides for the most common appliance problems homeowners face. Each guide explains what's going wrong, the most likely causes, and which replacement parts fix the issue. When you're ready to order, we link directly to ProsourceParts.com where you can search by model number and get the right part shipped fast.