Whirlpool WTW5000DW Not Spinning – What Part Fixes This Problem?
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Understanding the Problem
If your Whirlpool WTW5000DW washer fills with water and may even agitate or drain but won’t spin (or won’t agitate at all), the issue is usually a failed lid switch, a broken motor coupling/drive component, a seized gearcase (transmission), a failed drive motor, or an obstruction/drive belt issue. Follow these step-by-step diagnostics and repair instructions to find and fix the fault. 1) Safety first: Unplug the washer and turn off water supply before opening panels or touching wiring. Wear gloves and eye protection. 2) Observe and note behavior: Does the washer fill and agitate? Does it drain but then not attempt to spin? Is there a humming sound during spin attempt? Note any error codes or flashing lights. 3) Check for simple obstructions: Open the washer and inspect the tub for foreign objects trapped between inner and outer tub, check the drain pump/filter for clogs, and ensure the load is balanced. Remove any debris. 4) Verify lid switch/lid lock operation: The washer will not spin if the lid switch or lid lock assembly is bad. With the washer unplugged, open the top (see steps below), locate the lid switch near the lid hinge, and check for continuity with a multimeter while actuating the switch. If no continuity when closed, replace the lid switch assembly. 5) Confirm proper draining: If the washer does not drain before spin, the spin won’t engage. Run a drain/spin cycle and verify water is being pumped out. If not, test/replace the drain pump. 6) Inspect motor coupling or belt/drive assembly: Many Whirlpool top-loaders use a motor coupling or belt/idler. If you hear the motor humming but the tub does not turn, the coupling between motor and transmission may be broken or the belt slipped/broken. Remove the cabinet to access the coupling/belt and inspect for cracks or separation. Replace the coupling or belt if damaged. 7) Test the motor and capacitor (if equipped): With the washer unplugged, remove wiring harness from the motor and check motor windings for continuity per the service manual. A dead motor or shorted windings require motor replacement. 8) Check the gearcase/transmission: If the coupling is shredded or the motor spins freely but the tub is locked, the gearcase may be seized or stripped. Gearcase replacement is labor-intensive; inspect for metal shavings or oil leaks as indicators. 9) Run diagnostics (if comfortable): Use the factory service mode to command spin cycles and load/unload tests to narrow faults to control board vs. mechanical parts (consult the tech sheet or Whirlpool service manual for entry procedure for your exact model). 10) Replace suspected part and retest: After replacement, run a complete drain/spin cycle with a small load to confirm correct repair. Safety note: Always unplug the washer and discharge capacitors (if present) before servicing. If you are not comfortable with electrical testing or heavy mechanical work (gearcase replacement), consider calling a professional.
Common Symptoms
Washer fills but won't spin; washer drains but won't extract water; humming/noise during spin attempt; washer stops mid-cycle; error codes or no display activity.
Common Causes
- Failed lid switch or lid lock assembly (washer thinks lid is open)
- Broken motor coupling, drive belt, or pulley (no mechanical connection to tub)
- Failed drive motor or motor capacitor
- Seized or damaged gearcase/transmission
- Drain pump blockage preventing proper drain before spin or control board/relay failure
Popular Parts That Fix This Problem
These are the most common replacement parts that fix this problem. When you're ready to order, click below to find the right part at ProsourceParts.com — just search by your appliance model number for a guaranteed fit.
Helpful Repair Tip
A quick confirmation: try to lightly hold the inner tub and manually turn it during a spin attempt—if the motor hums but tub doesn't try to turn, suspect the motor coupling or broken belt. If the washer won’t enter spin with the lid closed, test the lid switch for continuity.
Frequently Asked Questions
My washer hums but does not spin. Is that the motor or coupling?
If the motor hums but the tub doesn't attempt to turn, the problem is most often the motor coupling or a slipped/broken belt/pulley that connects the motor to the transmission. Inspect the coupling for cracks or separation—if it's shredded, replace it. If the motor hums and coupling looks fine, test motor windings and capacitor; a bad motor can also hum under load.
Can I run the washer with a faulty lid switch?
No. The lid switch is a safety interlock that tells the machine the lid is closed — if it fails the washer will refuse to spin. You can test it with a multimeter for continuity and replace the switch assembly if it does not close. Replace the switch rather than bypassing it; bypassing is a safety hazard and not recommended.
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