Whirlpool WTW4855HW1 — Common Problems, Diagnostics & How to Fix Them
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Understanding the Problem
The Whirlpool WTW4855HW1 is a top-load, high-efficiency washer that commonly develops a handful of repeatable problems as it ages: not draining, not spinning, loud noises during spin, filling incorrectly, and intermittent start or lid lock issues. Below are prioritized diagnostic and repair steps for each common symptom so you can find and fix the actual faulty component rather than replacing parts at random. 1) Washer won't drain or spins but water remains a. Check error codes: If the control shows an error, note it before resetting. Some models flash codes for drain/pump failures. b. Inspect the drain pump: Remove front or back access panel (unplug first) and examine pump for clogs (coins, debris, small clothing items). Try to manually spin the pump impeller. If jammed, clear debris; if the impeller is broken or the motor doesn’t run, replace pump. c. Verify drain hose and standpipe: Ensure hose isn't kinked or blocked and standpipe/trap isn't clogged. Remove hose and blow through to confirm flow. d. Check lid lock/lid switch: If the washer won't advance to drain/spin cycles, the lid lock may not be signaling closed. Test for continuity with a multimeter; replace if faulty. e. Check control and wiring: If pump and switches are good but no power is reaching the pump during drain, test continuity from control board to pump when drain cycle is commanded. Replace control board or repair wiring if faulty. 2) Washer won't spin or completes cycle with heavy vibration a. Check load balance and diagnostic spin: Unbalanced loads will prevent high-speed spin. Run a calibration/balance test per service manual. b. Inspect suspension/shock absorbers and drum bearings: For excessive movement or loud thumping, inspect shocks/springs and tub bearings. Replace worn shocks/struts. If bearings are noisy or leaking grease, the tub or hub may require disassembly and bearing replacement. c. Inspect drive system: If washer hums but won't spin, check drive belt (if equipped), motor coupler, or direct-drive motor. Test motor for continuity and run capacitor if present. Replace failed motor or coupler. 3) Washer leaks water a. Check water inlet hoses and fittings: Tighten hose connections, inspect for cracks and replace hoses if damaged. b. Inspect detergent dispenser and hoses: Blocked dispenser or cracked internal hoses can leak inside the cabinet. Remove and inspect pathways. c. Inspect tub-to-pump hoses and clamp connections: Tighten clamps and examine for splits or pinholes; replace damaged hoses. d. Check door/lid seal and outer tub: Inspect for cracks or damaged seals that allow water to escape. 4) Washer won't start or control is unresponsive a. Verify power: Confirm outlet has 120VAC and the cord is fully plugged in. Reset any GFCI/AFCI. b. Check lid lock: If the lock doesn't engage or the machine thinks the lid is open, washer won’t start. Test/replace lid lock assembly if necessary. c. Test control board and touch panel: If the display is dead but power is present, the control board or UI panel may be faulty. Try a diagnostic mode reset (unplug 1 minute, plug back in) and run a diagnostic cycle. Replace the control board or user interface if necessary. 5) Noisy washer (grinding, knocking) a. Remove foreign objects: Coins, keys or small items can lodge in the pump or between tub and drum. Inspect and remove. b. Check motor and coupling: A clicking/grinding at spin may indicate a broken coupler or failing motor bearings. c. Inspect suspension components and shock absorbers: Worn shocks cause slapping and knocking during agitation/spin. How to fix (general procedural steps): - Always unplug the washer and shut off water supply before starting any repair. - Remove the appropriate service panel to access the component you are testing or replacing. Keep fasteners organized. - Use a multimeter to test for continuity and voltage where applicable (lid switch, pump, motor, inlet valves, control board connectors). - Replace only the failed component: pump for drain faults, lid lock for start/drain lock faults, shock absorbers/suspension for balance/vibration issues, motor/coupler for drive faults, water inlet valve for fill issues. - After replacement, run a quick diagnostic or test cycle with the washer empty to verify correct operation and check for leaks. Safety note: Always disconnect power and turn off water before servicing. Use insulated tools for electrical testing and wear eye protection. If you’re uncomfortable with electrical testing, wiring, or heavy disassembly, contact a qualified appliance technician.
Common Symptoms
Washer won't drain, won't spin, leaks, excessive vibration or noise, won't start or locks up with lid lock errors.
Common Causes
- Clogged or failed drain pump
- Faulty lid lock or lid switch
- Worn suspension/shock absorbers or tub bearings
- Drive motor, belt, or coupler failure
- Leaking hoses, fittings, or seals
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Helpful Repair Tip
To confirm a bad drain pump: put the washer in a drain/spin cycle, listen for the pump running. If you can't hear it but the control is calling for drain (test with a meter at the pump connector for voltage), the pump is bad or its impeller is seized — remove and inspect.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why is my WTW4855HW1 still full of water after the cycle?
If water remains after a wash, first check for clogs in the drain pump or drain hose. Run a drain/spin cycle and listen for the pump. If the pump doesn't run but the control signals drain (test for voltage at the pump connector), replace the pump. Also confirm the lid lock is engaging; if the washer thinks the lid is open it may not advance to drain/spin. Finally check the household drain and standpipe for blockage.
How do I run a diagnostic cycle or reset the WTW4855HW1?
To reset simple electronic glitches, unplug the washer for 1 minute, then plug it back in. For diagnostics, your model supports a service/test mode — typically you can enter it by pressing a specific combination of buttons (refer to the Whirlpool service manual for your exact sequence). In test mode you can run the drain, spin, and motor tests to isolate faulty components. If you're unsure, consult the official Whirlpool service manual or a technician rather than guessing button combos.
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