Whirlpool WT5680HWA — Common Dryer Problems & Step-by-Step Repairs
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Understanding the Problem
Overview: The WT5680HWA is a Whirlpool top-load dryer model that commonly experiences a handful of repeatable problems: it won't start, it doesn't heat, takes too long to dry, makes loud noises, or the drum won't spin. Below are practical diagnostic steps prioritized by what fails most often first (lint/venting and thermal safety parts), followed by step-by-step repair instructions for each symptom. 1) Preliminary checks (do these before taking panels off): a. Verify power: For electric models, check the household breaker for the dryer and confirm the dryer cord is firmly connected. For gas models, confirm the gas shutoff valve is open and you can smell no gas leaks. Check the dryer's on/off settings and door fully closed. b. Clean lint screen and disconnect the vent hose from the back of the dryer. Look for heavy lint blockage — poor venting causes long dry times and overheating. c. Run a short cycle and listen: is the motor humming, are there grinding noises, or no sound at all? 2) Dryer won't start (no motor action) — parts to check first: door switch, start switch, thermal fuse, drive motor, control board. Steps: i. Unplug the dryer (or turn off breaker / shut gas) before accessing internal parts. ii. Check door switch: open the door and press the switch—cycle should stop. Test continuity with a multimeter. Replace if no continuity when door closed. iii. Check start switch: with multimeter test for continuity when pressed. Replace if open. iv. Check thermal fuse: locate on the blower housing or near the heating assembly. Remove and test for continuity; if open, replace (many dryers will not run if thermal fuse is blown). v. If switches and fuse are okay, verify the motor receives voltage when start is pressed. If you hear a hum but dryer doesn't tumble, the motor or belt may be the problem. vi. Inspect belt and idler pulley: if belt is broken, tumble won't turn but motor may run briefly or hum. Replace belt and inspect idler pulley and belt path. 3) Dryer runs but does not heat — parts to check first: thermal fuse, heating element (electric), high-limit thermostat(s), cycling thermostat/thermistor, gas valve coils (gas models), igniter and flame sensor (gas). Steps (electric): i. Unplug dryer and access rear panel or lower front to reach the heating element and safety thermostats. ii. Test the thermal fuse for continuity and replace if open. Many Whirlpool dryers will not heat at all when the thermal fuse is blown. iii. Test the heating element for continuity; replace the element if open or if any coil looks broken/grounded to the frame. iv. Test high-limit thermostat(s) and cycling thermostat; replace any that are open. Steps (gas): i. Confirm gas supply is on. ii. Check igniter: if it glows but does not open the gas valve (no flame), test continuity of igniter and check gas valve coils for continuity. Replace failed coils/igniter. iii. Check thermal fuse and thermostats as above. 4) Long dry time or clothes hot on top and cold inside — usually venting or airflow restriction, or failing blower wheel/ductwork. Steps: i. Remove lint from lint trap and housing. ii. Disconnect exhaust duct and inspect/clean entire vent run to outside. Short runs should pass an empty water bottle full of air when the dryer is on; long or clogged runs restrict flow. iii. Inspect blower wheel for lint buildup or damage; remove and clean or replace if damaged. iv. Check drum seals and rollers: worn rollers or seals can allow heat loss into the cabinet and increase dry time. 5) Loud noises, squeal or rumble — inspect drum belt/idler, drum rollers, bearings, blower wheel, motor bearings. Steps: i. With power off, manually spin the drum. Listen/feel for rough bearings or rubbing. ii. Check drum rollers for flat spots and replace in pairs or as a kit if worn. iii. Inspect the idler pulley for worn bearing and the belt for glazing — replace if worn. iv. Check blower wheel for obstructions and secure fit. 6) Drum turns slowly or intermittently — inspect belt, motor start components, and capacitors. Steps: i. If drum slips on a glazed belt, replace the belt. ii. If motor hums and does not start, check motor start capacitor (if equipped) or motor centrifugal switch; replace motor if bearings are seized or the start winding is bad. How to replace common parts (example: thermal fuse and belt): - Thermal fuse replacement (common and quick): 1. Unplug dryer (or turn off breaker/gas). 2. Remove the rear panel or lower access panel to reach the blower housing/thermal fuse location. 3. Note wiring positions, disconnect wires from the old fuse, remove mounting screw, and install the new fuse. 4. Reconnect wires, reassemble panels, restore power, and test dryer. - Drive belt replacement: 1. Unplug power and open the top/front per service manual to access drum. 2. Remove drum to access belt path (on many Whirlpool dryers you remove the front panel and drum without taking motor out). 3. Slip new belt around drum, route under motor and around idler pulley, then re-seat drum and ensure belt is aligned. 4. Reassemble and test run. Safety note: Always disconnect power (unplug or shut off breaker) before servicing. If the dryer is gas, turn off the gas supply at the shutoff valve before working and ensure connections are properly tightened when reassembling. Replace only with specified OEM or equivalent parts and verify part numbers against the model/serial tag on the cabinet. If you are not comfortable testing mains voltage or gas components, call a qualified service technician.
Common Symptoms
Dryer won't start or tumbles intermittently; dryer runs but doesn't heat; clothes take too long to dry; loud squeaking or rumbling; drum won't spin; dryer trips breaker.
Common Causes
- Clogged lint filter or external vent restricting airflow
- Blown thermal fuse or failed thermostat(s)
- Broken belt, worn rollers, or failed motor/idler causing no tumble or noise
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Helpful Repair Tip
Start with the lint screen and exhaust vent — most ‘long dry time’ and ‘no heat’ issues are clogged vents or a blown thermal fuse. Test the thermal fuse with a multimeter for immediate confirmation (no continuity = bad fuse).
Frequently Asked Questions
How can I tell if my WT5680HWA is gas or electric?
Look at the back of the dryer and at the data/serial plate (usually inside the door opening or on the back panel). An electric dryer will have a 3- or 4-prong power cord and no gas connection. A gas dryer will have a gas flex line/connection and often a 3-prong power cord for controls. If unsure, post a photo of the back panel and rating plate and verify the model/serial number.
Can I replace parts myself or should I call a technician?
You can do many repairs yourself if you are comfortable with basic hand tools and have turned off power/gas. Tasks like replacing the thermal fuse, belt, drum rollers, or cleaning the vent are DIY-friendly and documented in service sheets. Do not attempt gas valve, igniter, or mains-voltage electrical troubleshooting unless you have experience — call a qualified technician for gas-related or high-voltage electrical repairs.
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