Whirlpool WRX735SDBM04 Repair Guide — Common Problems and How to Fix Them

Understanding the Problem

The Whirlpool WRX735SDBM04 is a popular counter-depth French-door refrigerator. The most common repair issues are: not cooling or uneven cooling, ice maker or water dispenser not working, excessive frost/ice in freezer, unusual noises, and lights or control/display problems. Below are practical diagnostic steps and repair instructions for each problem type. 1) Refrigerator not cooling (warm fridge / warm freezer) - What to check first: condenser coils (dirty), condenser fan motor, evaporator fan motor, compressor run, start relay/overload, evaporator frost pattern, thermistor/temperature sensors, main control board. - Diagnostic steps: 1. Unplug or switch off the unit and pull it away from the wall. Vacuum/clean the condenser coils and area around the compressor. 2. Plug the fridge back in, set temps to factory (37°F fridge / 0°F freezer). Listen: do you hear the compressor running? Listen for the condenser fan at the compressor area and the evaporator fan in the freezer when doors are closed. 3. If compressor runs but fridge is warm and evaporator is not frosted: likely refrigerant leak (sealed system) — requires certified tech / sealed-system repair. 4. If compressor hums but doesn't run, test the start relay/overload on the compressor (remove and test for continuity or replace if suspected). A faulty start device is a common repair. 5. If compressor runs but evaporator fan is not running, remove freezer evaporator cover, power the fridge and check for 120–240V at the fan; test fan motor for continuity and replace if dead. 6. If evaporator is completely frosted over but compressor is running, defrost system failure likely: check defrost heater continuity and defrost thermostat/thermistor and defrost control (or main board). Replace the failed component. - How to fix (examples): clean coils; replace condenser or evaporator fan motor if they don’t spin or are noisy; replace start relay/overload if compressor fails to start; if sealed system (low on refrigerant), contact a licensed HVAC/R tech. 2) Freezer or ice maker not making ice / ice maker issues - What to check first: water supply, water inlet valve, ice maker module, ice mold heater (if equipped), fill tube (frozen), door switch, control arm or optical sensor. - Diagnostic steps: 1. Confirm water supply to the house and water shutoff valve to the fridge is open. 2. Locate the water inlet valve behind the fridge; when ice maker calls for water, you should hear/feel the valve actuate. If not, test valve solenoids for continuity. 3. Check the ice maker power and test the ice maker module (many models use an electronic ice maker with a diagnostic test/harvest mode). 4. Inspect the fill tube for ice blockage; thaw if frozen. Check the water filter and replace if overdue (a clogged filter lowers pressure). 5. If ice tastes or smells bad, replace the filter and flush the system. - How to fix: replace water inlet valve if it fails to open; replace ice maker assembly if the module/paddle is faulty; replace the water filter (EveryDrop EDR1RXD1 or compatible) and test. 3) Water dispenser not dispensing or weak flow - What to check first: water filter, water inlet valve, dispenser actuator and solenoid, water line kink. - Diagnostic steps: 1. Remove/replace the water filter; run water through the dispenser for several minutes to purge air. 2. Bypass filter (if unit has a bypass) to rule out clogged filter. 3. Check for kinks in the water line behind the fridge and verify household water pressure. 4. When pressing the dispenser lever, listen for the inlet valve opening. If the valve doesn’t open, test for voltage at the valve when activated; if voltage present but no flow, replace valve. - How to fix: replace clogged filter; replace water inlet valve if defective; replace dispenser actuator or switch if not signaling. 4) Excessive frost or ice buildup in freezer - What to check first: door gasket seal, defrost heater, defrost thermostat, defrost control, drain tube/defrost drain (clogged), door not closing. - Diagnostic steps: 1. Inspect freezer and door gasket for gaps, cracks, or debris. Perform a paper test around the door perimeter to check for leaks. 2. Check for frost pattern on evaporator: heavy frost indicates defrost failure. Enter diagnostics or manually remove panel and test defrost heater for continuity. 3. Inspect and clear the defrost drain (hot water and a turkey baster / compressed air) if water is pooling and freezing. - How to fix: replace faulty defrost heater or thermostat/thermistor; repair or replace door gasket; clear/repair defrost drain. 5) Noises (rattling, buzzing, clicking) - What to check first: condenser fan motor, evaporator fan motor, compressor (internals), ice maker motor/gear, loose panels or screwhole vibration. - Diagnostic steps: 1. Identify where noise originates (back, bottom, or inside freezer). Use a cardboard tube to localize sound. 2. If noise is from back bottom area, check condenser fan for debris or broken blades, and test motor bearings. 3. If noise from inside freezer, check evaporator fan for ice contact or failed motor. 4. If clicking near compressor, could be start relay rapidly trying; test start relay and run capacitor if equipped. - How to fix: replace the noisy fan motor; secure loose panels; replace start relay/overload if causing rapid clicking and failure to start. 6) Control/display problems or lights not working - What to check first: user interface control (display), main control board, door switches, bulb/LED assemblies. - Diagnostic steps: 1. Try a hard reset: unplug fridge 5 minutes and plug back in. 2. If display remains blank, test for voltage to control board and inspect connectors for burn or corrosion. 3. Replace light bulbs with correct type or LED modules if interior lights fail. - How to fix: replace the user interface or main control board if dead; replace LED light modules or bulbs as needed. Safety note: Always unplug the refrigerator or switch off its breaker before accessing electrical components. When working near the compressor or sealed system, only a certified refrigerant technician should handle refrigerant or sealed-system repairs. Use insulated tools and a multimeter rated for appliance diagnostics.

Common Symptoms

Fridge running but warm, freezer frost buildup, no ice or weak water flow, loud humming or rattling from back, dispenser not working, display or light failures.

Common Causes

• Dirty condenser coils or blocked airflow
• Failed evaporator or condenser fan motor
• Defrost system failure (heater/thermostat/board)
• Clogged water filter or failed water inlet valve
• Faulty start relay/overload or sealed-system refrigerant issue

Popular Parts That Fix This Problem

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Frequently Asked Questions

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