Whirlpool WRF555SDFZ — Common Problems and How to Fix Them

Understanding the Problem

The Whirlpool WRF555SDFZ is a popular French-door refrigerator. Most owner-reported failures fall into a few categories: not cooling, no ice or slow ice production, water leaking or not dispensing, and unusual noises. Below are the likely causes, the parts to check first, and step-by-step diagnostics and repairs you can perform at home. Always confirm model/serial before ordering parts. 1) Refrigerator Not Cooling (fridge warm, freezer maybe OK or frosting) - Likely parts to check first: condenser coils, condenser fan motor, evaporator fan motor, thermistor/temperature sensor, start relay/overload, and evaporator (frost pattern/sealed system). - Diagnostic steps: 1. Check the basic: is the unit plugged in, temperature set correctly, and is the control panel showing any error codes? Reset power by unplugging 1 minute. 2. Remove the kickplate at the bottom rear/front and inspect condenser coils — if dusty, clean coils with brush or vacuum. Overheating reduces cooling. 3. With power on, listen for the compressor at the back (low humming) and feel for warmth on compressor body. If compressor is very hot or clicking, test the start relay/overload (see step 5). 4. Check condenser fan (if equipped) and evaporator fan: with doors open, the evaporator fan in the freezer should run when the compressor runs. If freezer is warm, open freezer and listen for fan; if not running, remove freezer evaporator cover and visually inspect fan blades for damage and spin by hand. 5. Test thermistor/temperature sensors with a multimeter: typical resistance changes with temperature (consult sensor spec). If sensor reads open or out of expected range, replace it. 6. If compressor is not running and start relay tests bad (no continuity or strong smell/burn marks), replace relay/overload. If compressor runs but unit still not cooling and evaporator has no frost, suspect sealed system loss — call pro. - Repair steps: - Clean coils and ensure proper airflow around fridge. - Replace condenser/evaporator fan motor if fan doesn't run (remove access panels, unplug connector, change mountings). - Replace thermistor/temperature sensor if defective (usually clips into an air duct or plugs into board). - Replace start relay/overload if compressor not starting but not locked up (unplug, disconnect relay, swap with new part). - For sealed-system problems (no cooling, compressor runs loudly or runs and still no cooling), stop use and call certified tech — sealed-system repairs require gauges and refrigerant handling. 2) Freezer or Ice Maker Not Making Ice / Slow Ice - Likely parts to check: water inlet valve, ice maker module, water filter, fill tube, and door seal (if warm air leaks in). - Diagnostic steps: 1. Verify water supply: press dispenser and check for steady water flow. If weak or no flow, shut off supply, check line, and remove/replace water filter if clogged. 2. Inspect water filter (replacement every 6 months). Remove filter and run dispenser — if flow improves, replace filter. 3. Inspect the water inlet valve (at rear bottom). With dispenser activated, the valve should click and pass voltage. If no water but valve gets power, valve may be clogged/failed. 4. Check ice maker: with freezer temperature at -5 to -10°C (20–23°F), the ice maker should cycle. Manually initiate a harvest cycle per service sheet (consult manual code: usually press/hold a test button or jumper). If motor/arm doesn’t cycle when commanded, replace ice maker assembly. - Repair steps: - Replace the water filter (model-specific) and test. - Replace water inlet valve if it fails to open under electrical command (shut off water, disconnect valve, replace using new valve, restore water, check for leaks). - Replace ice maker unit/module if it does not cycle or fill when commanded (remove mounting screws, unplug harness, swap units). 3) Water Leak Inside or Under Fridge - Likely parts to check: defrost drain (clogged), drain pan, water inlet valve, and supply line. - Diagnostic steps: 1. Inspect freezer bottom for ice or melted water — a clogged defrost drain causes water to pool under crispers or leak out. 2. Open freezer and pour a small amount of warm water into the drain trough to see if it passes into the drain tube; if it backs up, the drain is clogged. 3. Inspect water line and supply connections for drips at the rear and at the inlet valve. - Repair steps: - Defrost and clear the drain: remove back/bottom panels to access drain trough. Use a turkey baster or compressed air to flush warm water or a mixture of hot water and mild detergent down the drain. If necessary, use a flexible drain unblock tool or a length of cable to clear ice/clog. Reinstall panels. - Replace cracked drain pan or reseal connections if cracked or leaking. - Replace faulty water inlet valve or replace supply line if leaking at connections. 4) Excessive Noise (clicking, humming, rattling) - Likely parts to check: evaporator/condenser fans, compressor relay, internal components (tray, bins), or vibration against cabinetry. - Diagnostic steps: 1. Determine noise source by opening doors and listening. Run your hand near the back to localize compressor area noise versus fan noise. 2. If noise only when door open, suspect evaporator fan. If noise from bottom rear, suspect condenser fan or compressor relay. - Repair steps: - Replace noisy fan motor (remove fan shroud, disconnect electrical connector, swap motor and blade). - Tighten or reposition loose panels, bins, or the back grille to stop rattles. Put a small foam pad where the fridge contacts cabinetry if vibration transmits. Safety note: Always unplug the refrigerator and shut off the water supply before doing electrical or water-related repairs. Use insulated tools for electrical checks. When working on the sealed refrigerant system or compressor, hire a certified refrigeration technician — those repairs require EPA certification and specialized equipment.

Common Symptoms

Not cooling in fridge or freezer, slow/no ice production, water leaks under the unit, loud or unusual noises, weak water dispenser flow.

Common Causes

• Clogged/dirty condenser coils or failing condenser/evaporator fans
• Faulty water inlet valve, clogged water filter, or bad ice maker module
• Clogged defrost drain or failed thermistor/start relay (electrical components)

Popular Parts That Fix This Problem

These are the most common replacement parts that fix this problem. When you're ready to order, click below to find the right part at ProsourceParts.com — just search by your appliance model number for a guaranteed fit.

Frequently Asked Questions

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