Whirlpool WGD87HEDW1 Dryer — Troubleshooting Guide & Repair Steps
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Understanding the Problem
This guide covers the Whirlpool WGD87HEDW1 (a gas dryer) and the most common problems owners encounter — no heat, long dry times, no tumble, loud noises, and control/door issues. Below are prioritized diagnostic checks and step-by-step repair actions for each symptom so you can find the bad part and fix it. 1) Verify basics (before any tear-down) - Confirm the dryer is a gas model (WGD prefix) and the gas supply is turned on. Check that the vent duct is not crushed or clogged and the interior lint screen is clean. - Unplug the dryer or shut off the breaker and turn off the gas supply before working on the dryer. 2) No heat or takes too long to dry (gas-specific) - Check flame/ignition: Start a timed cycle with an empty dryer and watch for ignition. If you hear the gas valve click but no glow/ignite, suspect igniter or gas valve coils. - Test the glow igniter for continuity with a multimeter (expect near 0Ω to low ohms when cold). If open, replace the igniter. - Check the thermal fuse: locate the thermal fuse on the blower housing; test for continuity. If blown (no continuity), replace it — a blown thermal fuse commonly means restricted venting caused overheating; fix vent first. - Inspect the high-limit thermostat and cycling thermostat for continuity and replace if open. - If igniter works but gas valve doesn't open, test gas valve coils (solenoids) for continuity and replace if out of spec. 3) Dryer runs but drum won't tumble - Check for a broken belt: remove the front or top panel depending on access, inspect belt for break/wear and replace if broken. - Inspect the idler pulley and drum rollers for wear/noise. Replace noisy or seized rollers and the idler assembly if they don't spin freely. - Check motor: if the motor hums but doesn't spin, test start components (centrifugal switch/capacitor if present) and consider motor replacement if faulty. 4) Loud noises or scraping - Remove the front or top panel and spin the drum by hand. Listen for scraping (drum seam hitting a felt), thumping (worn drum rollers), or grinding (bad motor bearings). - Replace worn drum rollers, idler pulley, or drum bearings. Replace or repair damaged felt seals that let the drum scrape the cabinet. 5) Won't start or intermittent starts - Check door switch continuity (dryer won't start if the machine thinks the door is open). Replace door switch if faulty. - Inspect start switch, timer/control board and wiring harness for burned connectors or loose pins. Test the start circuit with a meter. 6) Controls, sensors and moisture sensing problems - Clean moisture sensor bars (inside the drum just behind the lint screen) with a small piece of fine sandpaper and an alcohol wipe if dryness sensing is unreliable. - If touchpad or electronic control fails, try disconnecting power for 1 minute to reset. Faulty control boards or UI boards may need replacement if resetting doesn't work and diagnostics indicate an error code. 7) Step-by-step replacement example — replace a blown thermal fuse (common and easy) - Tools: nut driver or socket set, multimeter, putty knife (to release top), replacement thermal fuse. - Unplug dryer and shut off gas. - Pull dryer away from wall and remove lint screen, then use putty knife to release top panel (if applicable) and lift top or remove front panel per model service steps. - Locate the thermal fuse on the blower housing; disconnect the two wiring harnesses and remove the mounting screw(s). - Install the new fuse, reconnect wires, reassemble panels, restore power and run a test cycle. 8) Final checks and ventilation - After repairs, always test with a drying load, monitor for proper ignition and airflow, and measure outlet air temperature if possible. - If a thermal fuse was blown, always clear the venting path: remove the exhaust hose and inspect/clean the vent run to the outside. Safety note: Always disconnect electrical power and turn off gas before servicing. If you are not comfortable working with gas components or major electrical repairs, hire a qualified appliance technician. Improper work on gas ignition systems can cause leaks or fire hazards.
Common Symptoms
No heat or long dry times, dryer runs but drum doesn’t turn, loud scraping or grinding noises, won't start, intermittent operation, or error codes on the control panel.
Common Causes
- Blown thermal fuse or tripped high-limit thermostat (often due to clogged venting)
- Failed igniter or gas valve solenoids (gas ignition failures)
- Broken belt, worn drum rollers or seized idler pulley (mechanical failures)
- Faulty door switch, start switch or control board (electrical/control failures)
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Helpful Repair Tip
To confirm a faulty igniter on this gas dryer: start a cycle and watch through the bottom kick panel or use a helper to listen — a failing igniter will not glow even though the gas valve clicks; use a multimeter to check igniter continuity and the thermal fuse for continuity before replacing the igniter.
Frequently Asked Questions
How can I tell if my WGD87HEDW1 is a gas or electric dryer?
Model prefix WGD typically indicates a gas dryer. Confirm by checking the back of the dryer for a flexible gas line connection, a gas shutoff valve nearby, and the absence of a 240V electric plug — gas dryers use a standard 120V power cord and a gas supply line.
Can I replace the igniter or thermal fuse myself?
Yes — replacing the thermal fuse and igniter is a common DIY repair if you’re comfortable removing panels and using basic hand tools. Always disconnect power and turn off the gas before starting. Test the component with a multimeter to confirm failure. If you’re unsure about gas components or suspect a gas leak, hire a qualified technician.
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