Whirlpool WED6620HW0 Dryer Not Heating – How to Diagnose and What Parts Fix It
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Understanding the Problem
If your Whirlpool WED6620HW0 tumbles but does not heat (or heats very weakly), the issue can be caused by several different parts or by airflow problems. Gas models need a working igniter and gas valve coils to create flame; electric models rely on a heating element and thermostats. In both types, safety devices like the thermal fuse or high-limit thermostat will open when overheating or airflow restriction is detected and will stop the dryer from heating until replaced. Start by checking the exhaust vent and lint screen: restricted airflow can cause the dryer to overheat and blow the thermal fuse or trip safety thermostats. If airflow is OK, the next steps are electrical checks (power to the heating circuit, continuity checks on the thermal fuse, thermostats, and heating element or igniter). For gas models you’ll also verify that the igniter glows and the gas valves energize. Replace the failed component once you confirm which control or safety part is open or not working.
Common Symptoms
Dryer tumbles but clothes remain damp; dryer makes heat briefly then stops; no heat at all; dryer runs but trips breaker (electric); clicking or no ignition on gas models.
Common Causes
- Blown thermal fuse (safety device that opens when dryer overheats or airflow is blocked)
- Clogged or restricted vent/ducting causing overheating or poor drying performance
- Failed igniter or gas valve coils (gas models) preventing the burner from lighting
- Broken heating element, open high-limit thermostat, or cycling thermostat (electric models)
- Faulty control board, timer, or cycling relay that isn’t sending power to the heating circuit
Popular Parts That Fix This Problem
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Helpful Repair Tip
First clear the lint screen and disconnect the vent hose from the back of the dryer; run a short cycle and feel the exhaust air. If exhaust is weak or hot air is trapped, clean the vent before replacing parts. Use a multimeter to check continuity on the thermal fuse and thermostats (they should show continuity when cold).
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I test the thermal fuse and thermostats?
Unplug the dryer. Locate the thermal fuse (usually on the blower housing or exhaust duct) and the thermostats (on the heating assembly). Remove the connectors and test with a multimeter set to continuity or ohms — a good part will show near zero ohms (continuity). An open reading means the component is blown and should be replaced. Only replace the thermal fuse after fixing any airflow or overheating causes, since it blows when the dryer runs too hot.
My gas dryer igniter glows but there’s no flame — what should I check?
If the igniter glows but the burner never lights, the most common cause is weak or failed gas valve coils (solenoids) that don’t open the gas valves. Verify the igniter is glowing then immediately check for voltage at the gas valve coils during the ignition attempt; if voltage is present but the coils are not actuating, replace the coil kit. Also confirm the gas supply is on and that the venting isn’t blocked (severe restriction can starve combustion air).
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