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Whirlpool Washer WTW5100 Lid Lock & Lid Switch Problems — What Part Fixes This?

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Understanding the Problem

If your Whirlpool WTW5100 top-load washer won't start, won't enter spin, stops mid-cycle, or shows a lid-related error, the likely cause is a failed lid switch/lid lock assembly or a related hinge/wiring problem. The lid switch is a safety interlock — the machine will refuse to agitate or spin if it thinks the lid is open. On more recent Whirlpool top-load models the lock mechanism (latch/solenoid) or its switch contacts can wear out, get bent, or have a wiring fault. Diagnosing the issue starts with confirming whether the machine detects the lid as closed. Symptoms can be intermittent if the switch is failing. Mechanical problems (broken hinge, warped lid, or a damaged striker) can prevent the switch from being actuated even though the lid looks closed. Electrical faults (broken harness, corroded connector, or failed switch/lock) will also prevent the washer from completing certain cycles. Replacing the lid switch/lock assembly or the associated hinge/striker commonly fixes the problem once properly diagnosed.

Common Symptoms

Washer won't start, won't agitate or spin, pauses mid-cycle, shows lid-related error or locks intermittently; sometimes a faint click when closing the lid or visible physical damage to latch/hinge.

Common Causes

  • Failed lid switch or lid lock assembly (worn contacts or failed solenoid)
  • Damaged or misaligned lid hinge or striker preventing the switch from being actuated
  • Broken wiring harness or corroded connector between the lid switch and electronic control

Popular Parts That Fix This Problem

These are the most common replacement parts that fix this problem. When you're ready to order, click below to find the right part at ProsourceParts.com — just search by your appliance model number for a guaranteed fit.

Verify for WTW5100* (common Whirlpool lid lock assemblies used on many top-load models — check partsLid Lock / Lid Switch Assembly (OEM replacement)
Verify for WTW5100 (hinge assemblies vary by production run; match your model number)Lid Hinge / Hinge Spring
Verify for WTW5100 (often sold as a small bracket/strike; check parts diagram)Lid Striker / Strike Bracket
Verify for WTW5100 (replace harness if wiring is damaged; part numbers vary)Lid Switch Harness / Wire Connector
Verify for WTW5100 (some models integrate lock with console; check OEM part lookup)Top Console / Control Lock Components (if integrated)
Pro tip incoming! 🧠

Helpful Repair Tip

Listen for a distinct 'click' at the top-front of the washer when you close the lid and try to start a cycle. If there's no click, or the washer still won't spin despite the click, remove power and test the lid switch for continuity with a multimeter while manually actuating the switch.

Frequently Asked Questions

How can I tell if the lid switch is bad?

First, listen for a click when you close the lid and try to start a cycle. If there's no click, that’s a strong sign the lock/switch isn't actuating. Unplug the washer, access the lid switch (top panel usually lifts or removes), and check the switch for continuity with a multimeter while you manually press the actuator. If the switch shows no continuity when actuated, it needs replacement. Also inspect wiring and connectors for damage or corrosion.

Can I run the washer with a broken lid switch or bypass it?

You should not bypass the lid switch except for a very temporary diagnostic test — it's a safety device designed to prevent injury. Running the washer with the switch bypassed is dangerous. If the lid switch is faulty, replace the OEM switch/lock assembly or the damaged wiring/harness. Replacement parts are inexpensive and straightforward to install on this model, but always disconnect power before servicing.

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