Whirlpool Top Loading Washer 588-20 — Common Problems and Repair Guide
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Understanding the Problem
This guide covers the most common problems owners see with Whirlpool top-loading washers like model 588-20: washer won't start, won't fill, won't agitate, won't drain or spin, loud noise or vibration, and leaks. Below are practical diagnostic checks and step-by-step repair instructions for each symptom so you can find the faulty part and fix it. 1) Washer won't start or won't respond: 1.1 Check power: Verify the washer is plugged in and the breaker/fuse for the laundry circuit is not tripped. 1.2 Lid switch: The lid switch (or lid lock) prevents motor operation when the lid is open. Open/close the lid and listen for a click when you close it. If no click, test the lid switch for continuity with a multimeter and replace if open. 1.3 Control/timer and console: If power is present and lid switch is good, check the timer or control board for visible burn marks or burnt connectors; intermittent controls can be replaced. How to fix: Replace lid switch assembly or control board per model; unplug washer, remove top/control console, disconnect and replace the faulty component. 2) Washer fills slowly or not at all: 2.1 Water supply: Verify hot and cold taps are fully open and hoses aren’t kinked. 2.2 Inlet valve: With faucets on, listen for humming at the inlet when fill should be happening. Remove inlet hose screen and check for debris; test inlet valve solenoids for continuity. How to fix: Clean screens; replace water inlet valve if solenoids are open or valve leaks. 3) Washer fills but won't agitate or spin: 3.1 Lid switch and motor coupling: For direct-drive machines, a broken motor coupling or worn agitator dogs can stop agitation. Remove agitator (usually by removing cap and retaining bolt) and inspect dogs for wear. 3.2 Drive components: Inspect belt (if belt-driven), motor coupling, and clutch/agitator components. How to fix: Replace worn agitator dogs, motor coupling, belt, or clutch as needed. 4) Washer won't drain or spin: 4.1 Lid switch: Some machines won’t advance to drain/spin if lid switch is faulty—test and replace if needed. 4.2 Drain pump: Listen for humming when draining; if pump hums but doesn’t pump, check for obstructions (coin/trash) and test pump motor for continuity. 4.3 Clogged drain hose or pump: Visually inspect and clear blockages. How to fix: Remove and clean pump inlet and drain hose; replace pump if motor is defective. 5) Excessive noise or vibration: 5.1 Suspension/shock absorbers and springs: Worn shocks or suspension springs allow tub movement—inspect for oil leaks or broken parts. 5.2 Bearings/gearcase: A growling or grinding noise during spin often indicates worn tub bearings or a failing gearcase (transmission). How to fix: Replace shocks/springs for minor issues; replace gearcase/tub bearings assembly for bearing failure (this is a heavy repair; consider professional help). 6) Leaks: 6.1 Hoses and clamps: Inspect fill and drain hoses for cracks and tight clamps. 6.2 Door/lid seal and tub seal: Check for damaged tub seals or corroded fittings. 6.3 Pump housing: Leaks at the pump require pump replacement. How to fix: Tighten or replace hoses/clamps, replace pump or tub seal as necessary. Safety note: Always unplug the washer and turn off water supply before doing any electrical or plumbing repairs. Use a multimeter to verify power is off. If you’re not comfortable with heavy mechanical repairs (transmission/gearcases), call a qualified appliance technician.
Common Symptoms
Won't start, won't fill, fills but won't agitate, won't drain or spin, loud grinding or squealing during spin, leaking from underneath the washer.
Common Causes
- Failed lid switch or lid lock assembly
- Clogged or failed drain pump
- Worn agitator dogs, motor coupling, belt, or clutch
- Faulty water inlet valve or blocked inlet screens
- Worn shock absorbers, tub bearings, or failing gearcase/transmission
Popular Parts That Fix This Problem
These are the most common replacement parts that fix this problem. When you're ready to order, click below to find the right part at ProsourceParts.com — just search by your appliance model number for a guaranteed fit.
Helpful Repair Tip
To confirm the faulty part quickly: run the washer on a cycle and observe/listen. If the washer doesn’t advance to spin but motor runs, suspect the lid switch or clutch; if motor hums and there’s no water movement suspect a clogged pump or failed pump motor—remove and inspect the pump inlet for debris and test with a multimeter for continuity.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I find the exact model and part numbers for my Whirlpool washer?
Look for the model and serial sticker on the washer — common locations are on the back panel, behind the lid along the rim of the tub, or on the door frame. Use that model number when searching parts diagrams on Whirlpool's parts website or trusted parts suppliers to get the exact OEM part numbers.
Is it worth repairing an older Whirlpool 588-20 washer or should I replace it?
It depends on the symptom and repair cost. Simple fixes (lid switch, pump, inlet valve, agitator dogs, belts, shocks) are usually inexpensive and worth repairing. Major repairs like replacing a failed gearcase or tub bearings are labor-intensive and costly — compare repair estimate to the price of a new washer. Also consider age, frequency of other problems, and energy/water efficiency of new models.
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Whether your dishwasher won't drain, your dryer stopped heating, or your fridge isn't cold, we've created simple repair guides for the most common appliance problems homeowners face. Each guide explains what's going wrong, the most likely causes, and which replacement parts fix the issue. When you're ready to order, we link directly to ProsourceParts.com where you can search by model number and get the right part shipped fast.