Whirlpool GTW680BSJ6WS Repair Guide — Diagnose and Fix Common Top-Load Washer Problems
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Understanding the Problem
This guide covers the most common problems owners see with the Whirlpool GTW680BSJ6WS top-load washer (won't start, won't drain or spin, noisy, or leaking). The instructions show which parts to check first and give practical step-by-step diagnostic and repair actions you can perform at home. 1) Preliminary checks (always start here) 1.1. Confirm power: make sure the washer is plugged in and the household breaker/fuse for the washer is ON. Try a different outlet if unsure. 1.2. Control settings: verify you don't have Control Lock or a child lock engaged and that the cycle and options are set normally. 1.3. Load balance: an extremely unbalanced load will prevent spin — redistribute heavy items and try a spin/drain cycle. 2) If washer won't start at all 2.1. Symptoms to check: LEDs/buttons unlit or no response when pressing Start. 2.2. What to check first: power, outlet, door/lid switch, main control board. 2.3. How to test: - Verify outlet with a known-good device or a multimeter. - Inspect the washer's power cord for damage and check the house breaker. - Test the lid switch/lid lock: open the lid and manually depress the switch (or use a multimeter on continuity). If no continuity when lid is closed, replace the lid switch/lid lock assembly. 2.4. How to fix: - Replace a failed lid switch/lid lock using the access steps below. If the control board shows burn marks or fails to power the machine after supply and lid switch are good, replace the main control board (confirm model-specific part number). 3) If washer won't drain or won't spin 3.1. Common causes: clogged drain pump or hose, faulty drain pump, lid switch failure, motor or drive system fault. 3.2. Diagnostic steps: - Run a Drain & Spin cycle and listen: a humming or whirring near the front/bottom often indicates a pump is trying to run. Silence or grinding suggests pump failure. - Inspect the drain hose for kinks or clogs. Disconnect and run water through it to confirm it's clear. - Access and inspect the drain pump for debris (coins, socks, lint). Many obstructions are visible and removable. - Test the drain pump electrically with a multimeter for continuity; compare reading to specification (typically a few ohms to low hundreds, check part spec). - Check the lid switch — if the machine thinks the lid is open it will not drain/spin. 3.3. How to fix: - Clear blockages from the drain hose and pump. Remove the pump and manually clear any trapped debris. - Replace a noisy, non-turning, or electrically open pump with the correct replacement pump (see parts below). - Replace a failed lid switch/lid lock if it fails continuity. 4) If washer is loud or vibrates excessively 4.1. Likely causes: foreign object in tub or pump, worn tub bearings/gearcase, damaged suspension/shock absorbers, worn drive motor coupling (on older models), or an out-of-balance load. 4.2. Diagnostic steps: - Run an empty spin and listen: determine if noise is metallic (bearing/gearcase) or scraping/grinding (foreign object). - Inspect the washer tub for small objects trapped between tub and outer tub. - Check suspension rods/shocks (top-load), and ensure they are intact and not collapsed. 4.3. How to fix: - Remove foreign objects found in the tub or pump. - Replace worn shocks/suspension rods. - If bearings or gearcase are badly worn (growling/rumbling that gets louder with speed), replace the gearcase/washer transmission assembly; this is an advanced repair. 5) If washer is leaking 5.1. Common points of leak: water inlet valve, hose connections (fill/drain), pump seal, tub seal, or cracks in the outer tub. 5.2. Diagnostic steps: - Run a short fill cycle and observe where the water originates. - Inspect hoses and clamps, drain pump housing, and inlet valve for visible cracks or loose fittings. 5.3. How to fix: - Tighten or replace leaky hoses and clamps. Replace cracked pump housings or inlet valves. Replace seals or the outer tub if cracked. 6) How to access common components (general steps) 6.1. Unplug the washer and shut off water supply. 6.2. Remove the console or top panel per the service manual: on many GTW models, there are screws in the back that release the console, or spring clips under the rim; then tilt the console forward to access controls. 6.3. Remove the front toe panel or rear service panel to access the drain pump and drive motor. 6.4. When replacing: disconnect wiring harnesses carefully, mark hoses, and take photos for reassembly. 7) Quick replacement example — drain pump 7.1. Tools needed: screwdriver set, pliers, bucket, multimeter, replacement pump. 7.2. Steps: unplug washer, turn off water, remove access panel, place bucket under pump connections, loosen and remove hoses, unbolt electrical connector(s), remove old pump and install the new one, reconnect hoses, reassemble, run a test drain cycle. Safety note: Always disconnect power before opening the washer. Use a multimeter only if you know how; otherwise, consider a qualified appliance technician. Wear gloves and eye protection when handling components. If you are uncomfortable with electrical or gearcase work (or if the repair requires removing the outer tub or handling heavy gearcases), hire a pro.
Common Symptoms
Washer won't drain or spin; won't start; makes loud grinding or rumbling noises during spin; leaks from bottom or back; error codes or unresponsive controls.
Common Causes
- Clogged or failed drain pump or blocked drain hose
- Faulty lid switch or lid lock assembly preventing cycle start
- Worn suspension/shocks, gearcase (transmission), or motor causing noise and failed spins
Popular Parts That Fix This Problem
These are the most common replacement parts that fix this problem. When you're ready to order, click below to find the right part at ProsourceParts.com — just search by your appliance model number for a guaranteed fit.
Helpful Repair Tip
To confirm a bad drain pump: run a drain/spin cycle and listen — if the motor hums but the pump doesn't spin, or you hear grinding or rattling, the pump is likely bad. You can also disconnect the pump and test for continuity with a multimeter.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I know if the drain pump or lid switch is the problem?
Listen during a drain/spin cycle: if you hear the pump motor trying to run (whirring) but no water moves, or you hear grinding, the pump is suspect. If the washer does nothing when Start is pressed and the control panel shows power, check the lid switch for continuity with a multimeter — if it has no continuity when the lid is closed, replace the lid switch/lid lock assembly.
Can I replace the drain pump or lid switch myself on a GTW680BSJ6WS?
Yes — these are common DIY repairs. Always unplug the washer and shut off water first. For the drain pump: remove the access panel, place a shallow pan under the pump, disconnect hoses and wiring, unbolt the pump, swap in the new pump, reconnect and test. For the lid switch: access the control console or top per the service instructions, unplug the wiring harness, remove the old switch, and install the replacement. Take photos during disassembly to help reassembly. If you are unsure or the repair involves the gearcase or main control board, consider hiring a professional.
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