Whirlpool Dryer Not Heating — Does the Heating Element Fix This Problem?
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Understanding the Problem
When a Whirlpool electric dryer tumbles but produces little or no heat, a failed heating element is one of the most common causes. The heating element (an electrical coil assembly) generates the heat the dryer needs to dry clothes. Over time the coil can burn out, the element assembly terminals can break, or internal insulation can fail, stopping heat production while the drum still spins. Before replacing the element, check related components and power supply. Electric dryers need both 120V legs of the 240V supply and several safety thermostats (thermal fuse, high-limit thermostat) in series with the element. A blown thermal fuse, an open thermostat, or a lost 120V leg will also prevent heating. Systematic testing isolates whether the element itself is faulty or another part is at fault.
Common Symptoms
Drum tumbles normally but no or very low heat; clothes remain damp after a full cycle; dryer may take extremely long to dry; possible burning smell if element is shorting intermittently.
Common Causes
- Open (burned-out) heating element coil inside the element assembly
- Blown thermal fuse or open high-limit thermostat in series with the element
- Power supply issue — missing one 120V leg (no 240V) or loose wiring/terminal block
Popular Parts That Fix This Problem
These are the most common replacement parts that fix this problem. When you're ready to order, click below to find the right part at ProsourceParts.com — just search by your appliance model number for a guaranteed fit.
Helpful Repair Tip
Confirm the heating element is bad by unplugging the dryer, removing the element housing and testing the element terminals with a multimeter for continuity (should read near zero ohms). Also check the thermal fuse and high-limit thermostat for continuity and verify the dryer is getting 240V (two 120V legs) at the terminal block.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I safely test the heating element?
Unplug the dryer and move it away from the wall. Access the heating element housing (usually behind the rear panel or at the front lint housing depending on model). Disconnect the element wires and test continuity across the element terminals with a multimeter; a healthy element shows near-zero ohms. Also check for continuity to the metal housing (no continuity expected) which would indicate a short. If unsure, consult the service manual for your model or take photos before disconnecting wires.
Can I replace the heating element myself and how much will it cost?
Yes — if you are comfortable with basic electrical safety and removing panels, you can replace the heating element. Typical time is 30–90 minutes depending on model and experience. Parts cost varies by model but element assemblies often range from $40 to $150; include any required gaskets, thermostats, or screws. Always unplug the dryer and confirm the correct replacement part for your model number before ordering.
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