Whirlpool Dryer Heating Element Kit Replacement – How to Diagnose & Replace the Heating Element
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Understanding the Problem
The heating element kit in an electric Whirlpool dryer contains the coil that generates heat plus the metal housing and mounting hardware. When it fails the dryer will run but not heat (or heat weakly), may trip breakers, or produce a burning smell. Below are step-by-step diagnostic and repair instructions you can follow to confirm the failure and replace the kit yourself. 1) Safety and prep - Unplug the dryer (or switch off the breaker) and move it away from the wall so you can access the back panel and front panel if needed. Confirm power is off with a non-contact voltage tester. - Have basic tools ready: screwdrivers (Phillips and flat), nut drivers (1/4" and 5/16" common), needle-nose pliers, socket set, multimeter, replacement heating element kit, and a flashlight. 2) Confirm symptoms and check lint build-up - If the dryer tumbles but produces little or no heat, start here. Remove the lint screen and vacuum the lint trap and duct opening. Excess lint can cause overheating and element failure. 3) Check the thermal fuse and thermostats (first-line checks) - Remove the back panel (or top/front per model) to access the thermal fuse (mounted on the blower housing) and high-limit thermostat(s). With the dryer unplugged, remove the wires and test each fuse/thermostat for continuity using a multimeter. A blown thermal fuse (open circuit) is a very common cause of no-heat and should be replaced before changing the element. 4) Visual inspection of the heating element assembly - With power still off, locate the heating element housing (usually at the rear of the dryer). Inspect the coil for visible breaks or burned spots, and check the housing for melted metal or char marks. Also check the element terminals and wiring for loose or burned connections. 5) Test the heating element for continuity - Disconnect the element wires and test the element with a multimeter set to ohms. A good heating element typically shows low resistance (a few ohms to a few dozen ohms depending on model). An open circuit (OL) means the coil is broken — replace the heating element kit. 6) Inspect wiring, terminal block and power supply - If the element tests good but the dryer still won’t heat, test incoming voltage at the dryer’s terminal block (two hot legs each ~120V relative to neutral; ~240V across them). Only test this if you are comfortable and experienced with live voltage checks. Also inspect the terminal block and power cord for loose or scorched connections. 7) Replacing the heating element kit — step-by-step - Remove power. Remove back panel (or front panel/top per your model) to access element housing. - Label and disconnect wires from the element assembly (take a photo). Remove mounting screws or clips holding the element housing. - Remove the old heating element assembly from the housing. Clean lint from the area and check the blower wheel for lint or obstruction. - Install the new heating element kit into the housing. Reinstall screws/clips and reconnect wires to the correct terminals using your photo as reference. Replace any thermostats or thermal fuses that tested open. - Reinstall the panels and reconnect power. Run a test cycle and measure dryer airflow and heat. Initially monitor for unusual smells (new element burning off factory oils) and ensure proper ventilation. 8) Final checks and airflow - Confirm proper dryer airflow through the vent duct to the outside. Restricted airflow can overheat and prematurely damage a new element. Replace or clean venting if heavily restricted. Safety note: Always cut power before touching internal components. If you’re not comfortable testing live voltages or removing panels, hire a qualified technician. Incorrect wiring or live-voltage checks can cause electrocution or start a fire.
Common Symptoms
Dryer runs but does not heat; long dry times; intermittent heating; burning or hot-metal smell; visible element coil break or charring.
Common Causes
- Broken or burned heating coil inside the element assembly
- Blown thermal fuse or failed high-limit thermostat preventing power to the element
- Restricted exhaust/venting causing overheating and element failure
Popular Parts That Fix This Problem
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Helpful Repair Tip
Before buying a heating element kit, first test the thermal fuse and element for continuity. A blown thermal fuse is more commonly the cause of no-heat than the element — replace the fuse if open, then retest the element.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I know if I need a full heating element kit or just the thermal fuse?
Test both components with a multimeter. If the element shows open continuity (no ohms) the element needs replacement. If the element has continuity but the dryer still won’t heat and the thermal fuse is open (no continuity), replace the thermal fuse first. Many technicians recommend replacing any open thermostat or thermal fuse at the same time as the element because they commonly fail together.
Can I run my dryer with one heating element broken or partially shorted?
No — a partially damaged or shorted element can cause uneven heating, longer dry times, tripped breakers, or a fire hazard. Replace a damaged element assembly promptly and also check the venting and thermostats to prevent repeat failures.
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