Whirlpool DRWED5050LW0 Dryer — Troubleshooting and Repair Guide
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Understanding the Problem
This guide covers the most common problems owners see with the Whirlpool DRWED5050LW0 electric dryer: not heating, not tumbling, unusually long dry times, loud noises, and failure to start. Below are prioritized diagnostic steps and practical repair actions so you can identify the faulty component and fix it. 1. Confirm model & power: Verify the model number and that the dryer is an electric model (requires 240V). Unplug the dryer before opening panels for any live-electrical checks. If the dryer has no power at all, check the household breaker and both hot legs with a multimeter (each should read ~120V to ground; 240V between legs). 2. Symptom: Dryer not heating or weak heating - Check lint screen and venting: Remove lint and disconnect the exhaust duct; run a cycle (air-only) and feel for airflow at the open duct. Restricted venting causes long dry times and overheating. Clean venting if low airflow. - Thermal fuse: Locate the thermal fuse (usually on the blower housing or near the heating chamber). With the dryer unplugged, remove and test for continuity with a multimeter. No continuity = replace the thermal fuse. - Heating element: Access the heater assembly (rear or front depending on model). Visually inspect for broken coils and test element continuity. Replace if open. - High-limit thermostat / cycling thermostat: Test thermostats for continuity. Replace defective thermostats. - Timer or control board: If heat-related components have continuity but dryer still doesn't heat, the timer or control board or a relay may be failing. Check for 240V to the element terminals when the dryer is running (requires safe, experienced testing). If no voltage, the control assembly or timer/starting circuit likely faulty. 3. Symptom: Dryer tumbles but won’t start (no drum rotation) - Drive belt: Unplug dryer, remove front or rear panel and inspect belt for breakage. Replace if snapped or worn. - Idler pulley and drum rollers/bearings: Check for seized or noisy idler or worn drum rollers; replace if worn or seized. - Motor: If belt and idler are good but motor hums or does not run, test motor windings and start components. Replace motor if faulty. - Door switch: If dryer won't start at all, test the door switch for continuity when door is closed. 4. Symptom: Loud squeal, thumping, or scraping noises - Drum rollers, glides, and bearing: Inspect rollers and glides for wear. Replace noisy or worn parts. - Idler pulley and motor bearings: Replace idler pulley or motor assembly if bearings are noisy. - Foreign objects in drum or blower: Inspect and remove any objects stuck in the drum seam or blower wheel. 5. Symptom: Dryer starts then stops, or trips breaker - Overload / short: Check motor and heating element for shorts to ground. Test for proper insulation and continuity. - Vent restriction: Excessive heat from restricted venting can trip thermal cutouts. Clean venting. 6. Basic step-by-step common repairs (example: replace thermal fuse) - Unplug the dryer and move it away from the wall to access the back. - Remove the back panel (or front access panel depending on location) using appropriate screwdriver or nut driver. - Locate the thermal fuse on the blower housing. Document or photograph wire location. - Disconnect wires (use needle-nose pliers) and remove mounting screw(s). Pull out the old fuse. - Install the replacement fuse, reconnect wires to the same terminals, and reassemble the dryer. - Plug in and run a test cycle to confirm heating. 7. When to replace a motor, element, or control board - Replace the heating element if coils are broken or element shows open continuity and you have confirmed 240V is being supplied. - Replace the motor if it hums, will not start, or has burned windings (no continuity or short to ground). - Replace control board/timer when all input components (switches, fuses, motor, element) test good but the dryer does not send voltage to the heating element or motor. Safety note: Always disconnect power before opening or working on the dryer. When measuring live voltages (120/240V), only do so if you are experienced and comfortable with high-voltage electrical testing. If in doubt, call a qualified appliance technician.
Common Symptoms
No heat or weak heat; dryer tumbles but won’t start; long drying times; loud squealing or thumping; dryer won’t power on or trips breaker.
Common Causes
- Clogged lint screen or venting causing poor airflow and overheating
- Blown thermal fuse or faulty thermostat(s)
- Broken heating element or failed control/timer not sending voltage
- Worn/broken drive belt, idler pulley, drum rollers, or motor failure
- Obstructions in blower wheel or worn bearings causing noise
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Helpful Repair Tip
To confirm a faulty thermal fuse vs heating element: test both for continuity with the dryer unplugged. If the thermal fuse is open, it’s almost always the cause—replace it AND verify venting and thermostats because a blown thermal fuse commonly results from airflow/overheat problems.
Frequently Asked Questions
How can I quickly tell whether the dryer problem is the thermal fuse or the heating element?
Unplug the dryer and test both with a multimeter set to continuity. The thermal fuse should read continuity if good; if open, replace it. The heating element should show continuity as well — if the element is open, it needs replacement. Note: If the thermal fuse is blown, fix any venting or thermostat issue that caused overheating before replacing the fuse.
Can I fix these issues myself or should I call a technician?
Many repairs (cleaning vents, replacing lint screen, replacing belt, rollers, or thermal fuse) are DIY-friendly with basic tools. Tests involving 240V live checks, motor replacement, or control board diagnosis require electrical knowledge — if you’re not comfortable working with mains voltage or disassembling the dryer’s electrical components, hire a qualified appliance technician.
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