WED5100HC Heating Element Wiring — How to Diagnose & Rewire the Element
Need the replacement part? Search your model number at for guaranteed fit and fast free shipping.
Understanding the Problem
Brief explanation: If your Whirlpool WED5100HC tumbles but doesn't heat (or you need to replace or rewire the heating element), the problem is usually a faulty heating element, an open thermal fuse or thermostat, or a wiring/terminal issue. Below are clear diagnostics and step-by-step repair/wiring instructions. 1) Safety first - Unplug the dryer from the wall. If you have a 240V outlet, power is lethal — always disconnect power before touching wiring. 2) Tools & prep you’ll need - Multimeter (AC voltage and continuity/ohms), screwdriver or nut driver set, can of compressed air or brush, needle-nose pliers, spade terminal crimper/insulator sleeves (if replacing connectors), camera/phone to photograph wiring before disassembly. 3) Access the heating element assembly - Unplug the dryer. - Pull the dryer away from the wall and remove the rear access panel (usually 4–6 screws) or front/top per service manual. For WED5100HC the element is accessible from the rear. Remove lint and debris around the element area. - Photograph the existing wiring and terminal locations so you can restore exactly. 4) Preliminary voltage check (only after you confirm it’s safe and you understand how to measure live voltage) - Reconnect power for live checks only if you are comfortable and experienced. Measure voltage across the two dryer terminal block posts — it should read about 240 VAC. Also measure each hot leg to ground: each should read about 120 VAC. - If there’s no 240 VAC at the terminal block, check the house breaker and terminal block connections before changing parts. 5) Continuity checks (with power removed) - Heating element: disconnect its two spade connectors and check continuity across the element with a multimeter set to ohms. Typical dryer elements read roughly 5–50 ohms depending on design; an open (OL) reading means the element is bad and must be replaced. - Thermal fuse: usually in series with the element circuit; check for continuity. If open, replace the thermal fuse. - High-limit thermostat and cycling thermostat: check continuity. If either is open (when cold) they should be replaced. 6) Inspect wiring and terminals - Look for burnt, melted, or corroded spade terminals and wire insulation. Replace any damaged wires or connectors. Crimp new insulated spade terminals and fully seat them. - Ensure the element housing’s mounting screws and insulating grommets are intact and that the element’s heat shield is positioned correctly. 7) Replacing the heating element (basic steps) - With power disconnected, remove the screws that secure the element housing. Pull the element assembly out enough to access the two spade terminals. - Remove the wires (photograph first). Transfer insulating brackets if needed and install the new element in the same orientation. - Reattach wires to the same terminals and reinstall the housing and access panel. 8) Replacing thermal fuse / thermostats - Thermal fuse: usually clipped to the blower housing or element housing. Remove the two spade connectors and the mounting clip/screw; install new fuse and reconnect wires. - Thermostats: replace similarly—remove spade connectors and screws, install new units and reconnect wires exactly as before. 9) Final checks and test run - Reinstall panels, restore power, and run dryer on a heat cycle. Verify heating after a few minutes and confirm the vent is clear. - If dryer still doesn’t heat but the element reads good and fuses/thermostats read good, re-check incoming voltage and the timer or electronic control that switches heat. Safety note: Always disconnect power before working on the dryer. If you are not comfortable testing live voltage or replacing wiring, hire a licensed technician. Working on 240VAC circuits can be lethal if handled incorrectly.
Common Symptoms
Dryer tumbles but no heat; dryer heats intermittently; visible burn marks or melted spade terminals at the element; tripped breakers or household fuses when running.
Common Causes
- Open (failed) heating element coil
- Blown thermal fuse or open high-limit thermostat
- Damaged wiring, corroded or burned spade terminals
- No 240V supply to the dryer or faulty terminal block/cord
Popular Parts That Fix This Problem
These are the most common replacement parts that fix this problem. When you're ready to order, click below to find the right part at ProsourceParts.com — just search by your appliance model number for a guaranteed fit.
Helpful Repair Tip
Before removing wires, take clear photos and label each wire with tape. Use a multimeter: an open (OL) reading across the element means the element is bad; an open thermal fuse in series is the most common non-element reason for no heat.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I know whether the heating element or the thermal fuse is bad?
Disconnect power and measure continuity. If the heating element measures open (infinite/OL), the element is bad. If the element has continuity but the thermal fuse is open, replace the fuse. The thermal fuse is often the cause when the dryer tumbles but does not heat — it’s inexpensive and easy to replace.
Can I rewire the heating element if a terminal is melted?
Yes — but don’t just rewire around a damaged part. Cut back and replace any burned wire and install new properly sized insulated spade terminals. If the terminal block or element housing is melted, replace the damaged component. Always restore the original terminal/wire routing and ensure secure, tight connections before testing.
Related How-To Videos
Real DIY Repair Stories
Be the first to share your repair story!
Share Your Repair Story
Your experience helps other homeowners fix their appliances. Tell us how it went!
Can't Fix It Yourself? Find a Local Technician
It's perfectly okay to call a professional. Some repairs require specialized tools, deep teardowns, or dealing with complex systems that are better left to the pros.
Find the Right Part for Your Appliance
Don't guess — search your exact appliance model number at ProsourceParts.com to find the correct OEM compatible replacement part. They offer fast free shipping, guaranteed fit, and thousands of parts in stock.
Your Free Parts Videos
Whether your dishwasher won't drain, your dryer stopped heating, or your fridge isn't cold, we've created simple repair guides for the most common appliance problems homeowners face. Each guide explains what's going wrong, the most likely causes, and which replacement parts fix the issue. When you're ready to order, we link directly to ProsourceParts.com where you can search by model number and get the right part shipped fast.