WDT790SLYM3 Dishwasher Won't Start — What Part Fixes This Problem?
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Understanding the Problem
If your Whirlpool WDT790SLYM3 dishwasher refuses to start, won’t respond to the control panel, or doesn't begin a cycle after selecting settings, the fault can be electrical (power supply/wiring), user interface related, or a safety interlock preventing operation. This model is known to exhibit start-failure symptoms due to a failed door latch assembly, a defective control board/timer, a bad touchpad/console, or occasionally a blown thermal fuse or wiring issue. Diagnosing a no-start requires a methodical approach: confirm the dishwasher is getting 120V at the power source, verify the door actually latches and closes the circuit, check the user interface for keypad responsiveness, and test the main control board for expected voltages when a cycle is selected. Many start problems are caused by a failed or intermittently-failing latch or the electronic control rather than the motor or pump, so start your checks there to save time and money.
Common Symptoms
Dishwasher doesn't respond to controls; cycles won't start; display blank or shows error codes; intermittent operation where it starts sometimes; clicking but no motor/pump activation.
Common Causes
- Door latch or door switch failed — unit thinks door is open and prevents starting
- Failed user control board (main electronic control) or power relay on the board
- Faulty touchpad/console that doesn't send start commands
- Blown thermal fuse or loss of incoming power/wiring issue
Popular Parts That Fix This Problem
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Helpful Repair Tip
Quick check: press and hold the Start button for 3–5 seconds to see if the control resets. If nothing changes, verify 120V to the dishwasher at the junction box (or outlet) and confirm the door latch shows continuity when closed before replacing major parts.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I determine if the dishwasher has power?
First check the home's breaker or GFCI outlet that serves the dishwasher. Then, remove the access panel at the bottom of the dishwasher (power off first) and test for 120VAC at the incoming terminals/junction using a multimeter. If there's no voltage, trace wiring back to the breaker or call an electrician. If voltage is present, proceed to test the door switch and control board.
Should I replace the control board or the door latch first?
Start with the door latch/strike because it’s an inexpensive, common failure and easy to test — the dishwasher won't start if the latch doesn't close the circuit. If the latch tests good (continuity when closed) and you have correct incoming power, then move on to testing or replacing the touchpad and main control board. Replacing the control board is costlier, so confirm other checks before swapping it.
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