Washer Won't Drain or Spin – WP3363394 Drain Pump Replacement & Diagnosis
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Understanding the Problem
What WP3363394 is and why it matters: WP3363394 (aka 3363394) is the drain/water pump assembly used on many Whirlpool and Kenmore washers. It pumps water out during the drain and spin cycles. When it fails or is clogged the washer may not drain, may not enter a spin cycle, may make humming or grinding noises, leak, or display error codes. Step-by-step diagnostic and repair instructions: 1) Safety first: Unplug the washer and shut off the water supply before doing any work. If you must test with power on, be extremely careful and keep hands/tools away from moving parts. 2) Confirm symptoms: Run a drain/spin cycle and listen. A working pump will run and you’ll hear the motor hum and water flowing. A humming/noise without draining indicates a jam or faulty pump motor. 3) Check for obstructions: Remove the lower access panel (front or back depending on model) or tilt the washer to access the pump. Inspect inlet/outlet hoses and pump inlet for coins, fabric, pins, battery, or lint that can jam the impeller. 4) Manually spin the impeller: With power off, try to rotate the pump impeller by hand. If the impeller is stiff or frozen the pump likely needs cleaning or replacement. 5) Test electrical supply: With washer running drain cycle and power safely connected, use a multimeter to verify the pump is receiving voltage from the control (usually mains voltage). If it’s getting voltage and not running, the pump is bad. If it’s not getting voltage, the problem may be the control board, timer, or pressure switch. 6) Check continuity: With power disconnected, unplug the pump wiring harness and measure resistance across the pump motor terminals. A reading of open (OL) means a burned-out motor. Exact resistance varies by model; any infinite/open reading indicates failure. 7) Check for leaks: Inspect pump body and seals. Cracked pump housings or brittle seals cause leaks and require pump replacement. 8) Replace or repair: If obstructed, remove debris and re-test. If the pump is electrically dead, noisy, leaking, or impeller damaged, replace the pump assembly (WP3363394). 9) How to replace (basic steps): a. Unplug washer and turn off water. b. Access the pump: remove front toe panel, rear panel, or tilt washer as required by your model. c. Place towels and a shallow pan to catch residual water. Remove drain hose and disconnect any clamps. Loosen hose clamps on the pump inlet/outlet and remove hoses. d. Unplug electrical connector from pump and note wire locations. e. Remove mounting screws or clips holding the pump to the tub or bracket and remove the pump. f. Install new pump (WP3363394): position pump, secure with screws/clips, reconnect wiring harness, reattach hoses with new clamps if needed, and reconnect drain hose. g. Reassemble access panels, turn on water and power, and run a short drain/spin cycle to verify proper operation and check for leaks. 10) Final checks: Confirm washer drains and spins normally, listen for unusual noises, and verify there are no leaks around hose connections. Safety note: Always disconnect power before working on the washer. Testing pump with live voltage should only be done by someone comfortable with electrical safety and using a multimeter. If you’re unsure, replace the pump or call a technician.
Common Symptoms
Washer won’t drain or spin, pump hums but no water moves, loud grinding or rattling from the bottom, water leaks near the pump, error codes related to drain/flooding.
Common Causes
- Impeller jammed by foreign object (coins, hair, fabric, buttons)
- Pump motor failure (electrical windings open or shorted)
- Cracked pump housing or failed seals causing leaks
- Blocked or kinked drain hose or clogged pump inlet
- Control/timer not sending power to the pump (board or wiring issue)
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Helpful Repair Tip
To confirm the pump is bad: remove debris and try to spin the impeller by hand; if impeller turns freely but pump won’t run and you measure voltage at the connector during a drain cycle, replace WP3363394. If the motor shows no continuity (open), replace it.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I repair the pump instead of replacing it?
Often a pump jammed with debris can be cleaned and returned to service. If the impeller is cracked, the motor hums but shows no continuity, or the housing is cracked/leaking, replacement is the proper fix. Rewinding the small pump motor is not cost-effective; replace the assembly (WP3363394).
How long does replacing WP3363394 take and do I need special tools?
Replacement usually takes 20–45 minutes for someone with basic DIY skill. Tools required: screwdriver set (Torx/Phillips depending on model), pliers, flat screwdriver for clamps, towels/container for water, and a multimeter if you want to test before replacing. No special tools are normally required.
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