WA50M7450AW/A4 5C Error – Washer Won't Fill (What Causes It & How to Fix)
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Understanding the Problem
Brief explanation: On Samsung top-load washers like the WA50M7450AW/A4, code 5C means the washer is detecting inadequate or no water fill. That usually points to a supply issue (closed/kinked hose, clogged inlet screen), a failing water inlet valve (solenoid), low household water pressure, or a problem with the water level sensor/pressure hose or wiring. Step-by-step diagnostic & repair steps: 1) Basic checks (2–5 minutes) - Confirm both hot and cold shutoff valves (behind the washer) are fully open. Turn them fully counterclockwise. - Inspect the supply hoses for kinks, sharp bends, or crushed sections. Straighten or replace if damaged. - Check the home water pressure: open a nearby faucet fully—if faucet flow is weak, the problem is household water supply, not the washer. 2) Check and clean inlet hose screens (10–15 minutes) - Turn off water supply valves and unplug the washer. - Unscrew the fill hoses from the washer (have a towel/bucket ready). Inspect the small mesh screens inside the washer inlet and on the hose fittings. - If screens are full of debris or mineral buildup, clean them with a small brush and water. Reinstall hoses snugly but do not overtighten. - Turn on water and run a quick fill test. If water flows normally, code should clear. 3) Inspect the inlet hoses for debris or internal collapse (5–10 minutes) - Remove hoses from the house side to check for sediment. If hoses are collapsed internally or very old, replace them. 4) Test inlet valve operation (20–30 minutes) - With the washer unplugged, pull the machine away from the wall and remove the back panel (or top panel on some models) to access the inlet valve where hoses connect. - Visually inspect the valve for mineral buildup, corrosion, or obvious damage. - Using a multimeter, measure the solenoid coil resistance. Typical coil resistance ranges vary by valve but many Samsung coils read around 500–1500 ohms. A very high/OL or zero/short reading means the valve is bad. - If you have a helper and know how to safely test live voltage: plug the washer in, set a fill cycle, and measure for ~120 VAC at the valve solenoid terminals while the machine is calling for water. If voltage is present but valve does not open (no water), replace the valve. If no voltage is present, the electrical control/pressure switch/wiring is the likely culprit. 5) Check the water level pressure hose and pressure sensor (10–20 minutes) - Locate the small clear rubber hose from the tub to the pressure switch (usually behind a control panel). Disconnect it and inspect for blockages, pinches, or water inside it. Blow gently through it to confirm it is clear. - If the hose is clogged or collapsed, replace it. If the hose is clear but the pressure switch is suspected, test or replace the pressure switch per service manual. 6) Check wiring and connectors (10–15 minutes) - Inspect connectors to the inlet valve, pressure switch and control board for corrosion, loose pins, or damaged wires. Repair or replace harnesses as needed. 7) Replace parts if diagnostics point to failure - If inlet valve coils are open/shorted or valve does not pass water when energized, replace the inlet valve assembly. - If pressure hose or pressure sensor is faulty, replace the part and re-test. 8) Final test - Reassemble panels, reconnect hoses, restore power and water. Run a diagnostic or a normal wash to confirm the 5C code is cleared and the washer fills normally. Safety note: Always disconnect power and turn off water before working on the washer. If you perform live-voltage checks, only do so if you are experienced and understand electrical safety; otherwise, hire a qualified technician.
Common Symptoms
Washer displays 5C and won't fill or takes a very long time to fill; partial fills; cycles pause and resume without filling; audible clicking but no water flow.
Common Causes
- Hot/cold water supply valves are closed or partially closed
- Kinked, collapsed, or clogged inlet hoses or screens
- Failing water inlet valve solenoid (won't open when energized)
- Low household water pressure or blocked house-side plumbing
- Clogged/blocked pressure hose or faulty water level (pressure) sensor
- Wiring or control board not sending power to inlet valve
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Helpful Repair Tip
To confirm the inlet valve is bad: with the washer calling for water, verify there is ~120 VAC at the valve terminals. If voltage is present but no water flows, replace the inlet valve.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I clear a 5C error myself?
Yes — start with the simple checks: make sure the water supply valves are fully open, remove and clean the inlet screens on the hoses and washer, and ensure hoses aren't kinked. If those steps don't fix it, you can follow the diagnostic steps above (inspect inlet valve, test coil resistance, check pressure hose). If you're not comfortable with electrical testing or disassembly, call a technician.
How much does it cost to replace the inlet valve?
Parts for a Samsung inlet valve typically range from about $30 to $120 depending on OEM vs aftermarket. If you hire a technician, total cost (parts + labor) commonly runs $150–$300 depending on labor rates and travel. Replacement is usually 30–60 minutes for a competent DIYer.
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