WPW10300024 Ice Maker Assembly — What Part Fixes This Problem?
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Understanding the Problem
What this part is and why you might need it: The WPW10300024 (also referenced as W10300024) is a complete refrigerator ice maker assembly used on many Whirlpool, KitchenAid and Maytag freezers. It contains the motor/module, mold, ejector blades and the fill mechanism that produces, ejects and signals for water to refill the ice mold. Quick diagnostic checklist (1–2 first checks you can do right away): 1. Confirm symptoms: no ice, sparse ice, ice maker not cycling, continuous harvest/no shutoff, or water leaking into the ice bucket. 2. Check the water supply: is the refrigerator line on and delivering water? Is the water filter recently changed/clogged? Low water pressure will cause small or hollow cubes. 3. Put the ice maker into a test/harvest cycle (see your model's procedure or press and hold the test switch ~5 seconds). Listen for motor/noise and watch for fill. If the motor runs and it fills, the ice maker assembly is probably OK; if it doesn’t run but has power, the module is bad. Step-by-step diagnostic steps (more thorough): 1. Locate your fridge model number sticker (inside fridge or behind kickplate) and confirm WPW10300024 is the correct replacement for that model. 2. Remove the ice bin and inspect the ice maker for obvious ice jams, broken ejector blades, or frozen water in the mold. 3. Put the unit into a diagnostic/test cycle. If the ice maker doesn’t start its harvest/fill cycle, proceed to check voltage at the ice maker harness with a multimeter during a commanded harvest. - If you see ~120VAC at the module during harvest but the motor doesn’t run → replace the ice maker assembly. - If there’s no voltage to the ice maker, trace back to the control board/wiring or door switch. 4. If the mold fills but no ice forms or cubes are tiny, check water pressure and the water inlet valve — a bad valve or blocked filter can limit fill. 5. If the ice maker constantly fills/overfills, the mold thermostat or module is stuck and the assembly should be replaced. Step-by-step replacement instructions (tools: 1/4" nut driver or Phillips screwdriver, putty knife or thin pry tool, multimeter optional): 1. Safety first: Unplug the refrigerator or switch off the breaker. Turn off the water supply to the refrigerator at the shutoff valve if you’re uncomfortable with the fill tube. 2. Empty the freezer area: remove the ice bin and any shelves that obstruct access to the ice maker. 3. Remove mounting screws: locate the screws holding the ice maker to the freezer wall and remove them. Some models have two screws; others have clips—gently pull forward. 4. Disconnect wiring harness: slide the ice maker out a bit to access and unplug the electrical connector. If the harness is behind a clip, depress the tab and pull straight out. 5. Remove the ice maker: once unplugged and free from screws or clips, remove the old assembly. 6. Install the new assembly: position WPW10300024 into place, connect the wiring harness, seat the fill tube (ensure it’s aligned and not damaged), and secure with screws or clips. 7. Reinstall ice bin and shelves. 8. Restore power and water: plug the fridge back in and turn the water supply back on. 9. Test the new ice maker: either wait for the automatic cycle or force a test/harvest cycle. Verify the mold fills, then that ice ejects and the fill repeats properly. Check for leaks at the fill tube. 10. Monitor for a cycle or two (a few hours to a day) to ensure normal operation. Safety note: Always disconnect electrical power before attempting repairs. If you’re not comfortable testing live voltage, skip the voltage checks and proceed to replace the assembly or call a technician.
Common Symptoms
No ice production, ice maker won’t cycle or eject, continuous filling/harvesting, small or hollow cubes, water leaking into the ice bucket.
Common Causes
- Failed ice maker motor/module or thermostat inside the ice maker assembly
- Restricted or no water supply (clogged filter, kinked line, or faulty inlet valve)
- Mechanical damage or ice jam in the mold/ejector
Popular Parts That Fix This Problem
These are the most common replacement parts that fix this problem. When you're ready to order, click below to find the right part at ProsourceParts.com — just search by your appliance model number for a guaranteed fit.
Helpful Repair Tip
Put the ice maker into a test/harvest cycle. If the module receives 120VAC but the motor doesn’t run, the WPW10300024 assembly is faulty and should be replaced.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I know WPW10300024 is compatible with my refrigerator?
Check your refrigerator model number (on the inner wall or behind the kickplate) and compare it to the OEM parts list or the replacement part retailer's compatibility list. WPW10300024 is used on many Whirlpool, KitchenAid and Maytag models — confirm compatibility before buying.
Can I replace the WPW10300024 ice maker myself and how long does it take?
Yes — if you’re comfortable removing a few screws and unplugging a harness, you can replace it yourself in about 20–45 minutes. Turn off power first, remove the ice bin/shelves, unplug the old ice maker, swap in the new unit, reconnect, restore power and water, then run a test cycle. If you’re unsure about electrical testing or water connections, call a professional.
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