Washer Tub Bearing Inner & Outer Seals Kit (110kwggap119) – What It Fixes and How to Replace It
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Understanding the Problem
What this kit is and what it fixes: This kit (marketed as 110kwggap119) contains the bearings and lip seals used in the washer's tub/drum assembly. It's intended for front‑load and some top‑load designs that use pressed-in bearings in the outer tub. Faulty bearings or seals cause loud rumbling, drum wobble and water leaks. Step-by-step diagnostic and repair overview: 1) Confirm the problem: - Spin the drum by hand with the door open. Listen for grinding/rumbling and feel for rough spots. - Push/pull the drum side-to-side. Excessive play indicates worn bearings or their supporting hub. - Check for oil/grease on the front door gasket or in the wash water — seals leaking will allow grease/water escape. - During a spin cycle, watch for the drum wobble or heavy vibration. 2) Prepare: gather tools and parts: - Tools: socket set, nut drivers, screwdrivers, pry bar, hammer, bearing puller or press, drift set, rubber mallet, snap ring pliers, torque wrench, cleaning rags, solvent. - Parts: the 110kwggap119 kit (bearings + seals), replacement hub or shaft parts if worn, new tub-to-frame gaskets if needed. - Work area: clear space, towel or container for bolts, protective gloves and eye protection. 3) Disconnect power and water: - Unplug the washer; shut off water supply and disconnect hoses (have a towel ready). 4) Access the tub/drum assembly: - Remove the washer top and/or front panel depending on model. For front-load machines remove the front boot gasket clamp and door seal to expose the inner tub. - Remove the motor and drive components if they obstruct access. - Unbolt and lift out the inner drum (or separate inner drum from outer tub) to expose the bearing housing. Follow your model’s service manual for the correct order of disassembly. 5) Remove the old bearings and seals: - Remove any retaining rings/snap rings around the bearing bore. - Use a hydraulic or mechanical puller to press/pull the bearings out from the tub housing. If you don’t have a puller, soften the housing slightly with directed heat and carefully drive the bearings out from the opposite side using a sleeve or drift (work evenly to avoid scoring the bore). - Pry out the old seals—note their orientation (lip faces the fluid). - Clean the bearing bore thoroughly (remove grease, corrosion and old sealant). Inspect the bore and hub for pitting or ovalization. If the bore is damaged the tub or hub may need replacement or professional machining. 6) Install new bearings and seals: - Lightly lubricate the new bearing OD with a thin film of assembly grease (do not pack grease into bearings unless specified). Use a bearing driver or a sleeve that only contacts the bearing outer race to press the bearing squarely into the bore. Press the bearing until fully seated. - Install the new inner/outer seals with the correct orientation (usually the seal lip faces the fluid/inside). Use even hand pressure or a seal driver to avoid cocking the seal. - Replace any snap rings or retaining hardware and torque to spec. 7) Reassemble and test: - Re-install the inner drum, belt, motor and any removed components. Reattach hose/clamps and fill lines. - Plug the washer in and run a short spin/drain test (without clothes) to verify smooth spin and absence of leaks or unusual noises. 8) Final checks and run-in: - Recheck fasteners after a test run. Monitor for a few cycles to ensure no leaks and that vibration is gone. Safety note: bearings/seals replacement requires disassembly that can expose sharp edges and heavy components. Disconnect power and water before starting. If you don't have a bearing press or are unsure about machining or a damaged tub bore, stop and consult a professional — pressing bearings incorrectly can permanently damage the tub and create unsafe conditions.
Common Symptoms
Loud rumbling or grinding during spin, visible drum wobble or off-balance shaking, grease or oily residue on gasket or in tub water, leaking water from the front door area, slow or failed spin.
Common Causes
- Normal wear of the pressed-in bearings from age and heavy loads
- Seal failure allowing water into the bearing cavity, causing rust and bearing failure
- Damaged or corroded bearing bore/hub from previous leaks or improper installation
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Helpful Repair Tip
Confirm the bearings by spinning the drum by hand and listening for a metallic grinding or rumbling noise; also check for lateral play (rocking) of the drum — if either is present, replace bearings and seals together.
Frequently Asked Questions
How long does replacing tub bearings and seals take?
For an experienced DIYer with the right tools expect 2–4 hours for a straightforward model; if the tub must be machined or the hub is corroded it can take longer or require shop service.
Can I replace only the seals if there is a leak?
You can replace seals alone if bearings are smooth and show no play. However, seals usually fail because bearings have already let water in; best practice is to replace bearings and seals together to avoid repeating the job shortly after.
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