Samsung WF42H5200AP/A2 Won't Drain or Spin – What Part Fixes This?
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Understanding the Problem
Front-load Samsung washers such as the WF42H5200AP/A2 commonly present a “won't drain” or “won't spin” problem when water stays in the drum and the machine either stops or displays an error. The symptom usually appears after the wash cycle (water remains in drum) or when the washer pauses during spin. On this model the fault can be mechanical (clogged pump/filter, failed drain pump), electrical (door lock, control board, or inverter motor), or an obstruction in the drain hose. Diagnostic error codes and symptom behavior narrow the cause quickly. Start troubleshooting by checking obvious serviceable items: the drain/filter access, drain hose routing, and any visible foreign objects in the drain pump area. If those are clear, test for pump operation and whether the door lock secures correctly (the washer will refuse to spin if it thinks the door is unlocked). For electrical faults, use the washer’s diagnostic mode or multimeter tests on the drain pump, door-lock switch, and main/inverter motor to determine which part is failing before ordering replacements.
Common Symptoms
Water remains in the drum after a cycle, washer attempts to spin but stops, error codes related to drainage (e.g., 5C/SE variants depending on model), humming or no noise from pump, or the washer shows door/unlock errors and won’t start spin.
Common Causes
- Clogged pump filter or drain hose (debris, small garments, coins)
- Failed drain pump (electrical or impeller failure)
- Faulty door lock assembly or latch (won’t register closed)
- Inverter drive/motor or motor control issue preventing spin
- Faulty main control board or wiring/connectors
Popular Parts That Fix This Problem
These are the most common replacement parts that fix this problem. When you're ready to order, click below to find the right part at ProsourceParts.com — just search by your appliance model number for a guaranteed fit.
Helpful Repair Tip
Run the washer’s diagnostic mode and listen for the drain pump during a drain cycle; also remove the pump filter (front access) to check for coins, lint or obstructions before replacing parts.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I check if the drain pump is bad?
First unplug the washer and remove the front pump filter/access panel. Look for visible blockages (coins, lint, small articles). If clear, put the washer into a drain/spin diagnostic mode or run a drain cycle while listening — a working pump will run and make a humming/working sound. If there's no sound or just a faint hum while water doesn't drain, the pump motor or impeller is likely failed. You can also test the pump motor with a multimeter for continuity (see service manual for expected values).
Can I replace these parts myself, and how much will it cost?
Many owners can replace user-serviceable parts like the drain pump or door lock with basic tools and the washer unplugged — allow 30–90 minutes depending on experience. Main board or inverter/motor replacements are more advanced and may require disassembly and careful handling of electronics. Parts cost: pump or door lock typically $30–$120 each, inverter/motor $200–$450, main control board $150–$400 — prices vary by supplier. If you're uncomfortable with electrical diagnostics or working inside the washer, hire a qualified appliance technician.
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