Samsung WF42H5200AP/A2 — Common Problems and How to Fix Them
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Understanding the Problem
This guide covers the most common failures on the Samsung front-load washer model WF42H5200AP/A2: not draining (5E/SE), not spinning (UE or no spin), door lock/drawer errors (dE, dOE), excessive vibration, and leaks. Below are prioritized diagnostic and repair steps you can do at home, followed by safety reminders. 1) Read the display and note error codes - Common codes: 5E/SE (drain), dE/dOE (door), UE (unbalanced), IE (inlet). Write down any code exactly as shown. 2) Quick checks (do these first) - Unplug washer and turn off water supply. - Check the drain hose for kinks or high loops — the hose should be routed properly to the standpipe and not pushed too far in or blocked. - Inspect the door seal and gasket for rips or foreign objects. 3) If the washer won’t drain or shows 5E/SE - Step A — Clear the drain filter/trap: On this Samsung model the pump access is behind the lower front access panel. Place towels and a shallow pan. Remove the access cover, unscrew the emergency drain cap or remove the small cleanout plug and allow water to flow into the pan. Remove any lint, coins, or debris. - Step B — Check the drain pump: With the access panel removed inspect pump impeller for obstructions. If impeller spins free by hand and there is no clog, test the pump electrically (see Step 6). If impeller is damaged or pump hums but doesn't pump, replace the pump. 4) If the washer won’t spin or is unbalanced (UE) - Step A — Redistribute the load and run a spin-only cycle. Large items (mats, rugs) can cause imbalance — try smaller loads. - Step B — Check suspension/shock absorbers: Remove top or front panel as needed and inspect shocks and springs for wear or separation. If shocks are leaking or broken replace them in matched pairs. - Step C — Check drum bearings and seal: A loud rumbling during spin suggests worn bearings. Bearing replacement is a heavy job (requires drum disassembly); consider professional help if bearings are bad. 5) Door won’t lock or shows dE/dOE - Step A — Check door latch / strike and gasket for foreign objects. - Step B — Test/replace the door lock assembly (interlock): If the latch is physically OK but the washer indicates door open, the lock assembly is often faulty. Replacing the door lock assembly is straightforward: disconnect power, remove the outer door boot clamp, pull the gasket back, access and unplug the lock, remove mounting screws, replace and reassemble. 6) Electrical tests (basic multimeter checks) - Test drain pump continuity with a multimeter. You should get a low ohm reading (typically a few tens to a few hundred ohms). Infinite resistance = open winding = replace pump. - Test door lock for continuity when actuated (consult new part terminals). Test heater or motor only if you have experience — incorrect testing can cause damage. 7) Control board / error persistence - If you have cleared obstructions, verified pump and drain hose and still get drain errors, a failed drain pump relay on the main control board or wiring fault could be the cause. Inspect wiring harnesses for loose connectors and burn marks. Replacing the main control board is the next step after verifying all mechanical components. 8) Leak diagnosis - Inspect door boot gasket for tears, check soap drawer and water inlet hoses for loose clamps, and inspect tub-to-pump hose connections. Tighten clamps or replace hoses as needed. 9) Practical repair steps for common replacements - Drain pump replacement: Unplug washer, turn off water, remove lower front access panel, disconnect pump electrical connector and hoses (have towels ready), remove mounting screws/clips, fit new pump, reconnect hoses/clips, reattach connector, test with a short drain cycle. - Door lock replacement: Unplug, open door, remove door boot clamp so you can peel gasket back enough to access lock, unscrew lock, unplug connectors, install new lock, test door close and start a short wash. - Shock replacement: Support drum, remove front/top panels as needed, unbolt shocks top and bottom, replace with new shocks. Safety note: Always unplug the washer and shut off water before opening panels or disconnecting hoses. If you are unfamiliar with mains-voltage testing or large mechanical disassembly (bearing/tub replacement), consider a qualified appliance technician.
Common Symptoms
Washer won't drain (water left after cycle), washer won't spin or stops mid-cycle, door won't lock/washer reports door error, loud rumble or vibration during spin, water leaking from the door boot or underneath the machine.
Common Causes
- Blocked drain pump/filter or kinked drain hose
- Failed drain pump motor or damaged impeller
- Faulty door latch/lock assembly
- Worn suspension/shocks or drum bearings causing vibration
- Faulty main control board or wiring connection
Popular Parts That Fix This Problem
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Helpful Repair Tip
Listen for the pump during drain: a humming sound with no water flow usually means a clogged impeller or a failed pump motor. If nothing is heard when drain should run, check wiring to the pump and the control board.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I know if the drain pump is bad or just clogged?
If the pump hums during drain but no water leaves, or the washer displays a drain error after you've cleared visible clogs, the pump is likely mechanically seized or the impeller is damaged. If the pump is silent and there's power to it, check wiring and control board relay. Use a multimeter to check pump winding continuity — an open circuit means a failed pump. Always clear the drain filter first and test again before replacing the pump.
Can I perform these repairs myself or should I call a technician?
Many jobs—clearing the pump filter, replacing the drain pump, replacing the door lock, and swapping shocks—are DIY-friendly if you are comfortable with basic tools and follow safety steps (unplug and turn off water). Complex tasks like bearing replacement, major tub disassembly, or mains-voltage electronic diagnostics are better left to an appliance technician. Always verify part numbers for your exact model (check the sticker behind the door or on the back) before ordering parts.
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