For educational purposes only. Always consult a certified technician when unsure.

Samsung RF28R7351SR Evaporator Fan Not Working – What Part Fixes This?

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Understanding the Problem

Brief explanation: The evaporator fan (evap fan) circulates cold air from the freezer evaporator coil into the freezer and fresh food compartments. If it fails the refrigerator will have poor cooling in the fridge, uneven temperatures, or the freezer may still be cold while the fridge is warm. Failures are commonly caused by a dead motor, ice/frost locking the blade, a faulty defrost system that creates ice, wiring/connectors, or control board issues. Step‑by‑step diagnostic & repair instructions: 1. Confirm symptoms: close the refrigerator and freezer doors, listen closely. With the compressor running you should hear the evaporator fan spinning near the back of the freezer. If you hear nothing or only faint noise, continue. 2. Check door switch behavior: open the freezer door — the fan usually stops when the door switch opens. Manually press the door switch with the door open; if the fan runs when the switch is pressed, the switch is working. 3. Check for frost/ice: remove stored items and inspect the rear interior panel of the freezer for heavy frost/ice buildup. If the coil or fan area is iced over, perform a manual defrost (turn off power and let ice melt or use warm water/hair dryer carefully). After defrost, see if fan runs. 4. Remove power and access the evaporator compartment: unplug the refrigerator or switch off the breaker. Remove the freezer rear panel to expose the evaporator fan and motor. Inspect the fan blade — try to spin it by hand to check for free movement and listen for rough bearings. 5. Visual inspection: check the fan blade for damage, look for frost/ice on motor shaft, and inspect wiring connectors for burned pins or loose connections. 6. Electrical tests (use a multimeter): a. With power back on and compressor running (use caution): measure voltage at the fan motor connector. Many Samsung evap fans run on 120VAC, but some run on DC; verify expected voltage in your model's tech sheet. If the correct voltage is present and the motor does not run, the motor is bad. b. With power off: measure motor winding continuity/ohms. An open winding indicates a failed motor. 7. Check related systems: - Defrost system: a failed defrost heater or defrost thermostat can cause excessive ice that prevents the fan from spinning. - Main control board: if it fails to supply power to the fan or control relays, the fan won't receive voltage. 8. Repair or replace: - If blade obstructed by ice: defrost and verify fan spins freely. If bearings are damaged or blade cracked, replace blade or motor assembly. - If motor has no continuity or is not powered despite correct voltage to connector, replace the evaporator fan motor assembly. - If connector has no voltage, trace wiring to main control board and test board output; replace board if it's confirmed faulty. - If defrost system is faulty and caused the ice, repair/replace defrost heater, thermostat, or control board as needed. 9. Reassembly and test: reinstall the evaporator cover, restore power, and run the compressor. Confirm the evaporator fan runs and that airflow returns to normal. Monitor temperatures over 24 hours. Safety note: Always disconnect power before removing access panels or touching wiring. When testing live voltage, exercise caution and use proper insulated tools. If you are not comfortable working with mains voltage, call a qualified technician.

Common Symptoms

Fridge compartment warm while freezer cold, no airflow between freezer and fridge, clicking or humming from behind the freezer panel, visible ice buildup on evaporator, or no fan noise when compressor runs.

Common Causes

  • Evaporator fan motor failure (worn bearings or burned windings)
  • Fan blade blocked by ice/frost or physical obstruction
  • Faulty defrost system causing ice buildup over the evaporator
  • Broken wiring or connector to the fan motor
  • Control board or relay not supplying power to the fan

Popular Parts That Fix This Problem

These are the most common replacement parts that fix this problem. When you're ready to order, click below to find the right part at PartsDiscount.com — just search by your appliance model number for a guaranteed fit.

DA31-10105A (verify compatibility with RF28R7351SR)Evaporator Fan Motor (assembly)
DA97-14607B (common Samsung fan blade)Evaporator Fan Blade (impeller)
DA97-17388A (housing / bracket — confirm part for your model)Evaporator Fan Housing / Bracket
DA47-00207A (defrost heater — verify for your model)Defrost Heater Kit (if heavy frost present)
DA92-01506A (control board — confirm exact part for RF28R7351SR)Main Control Board (if no voltage to fan)
Pro tip incoming! 🧠

Helpful Repair Tip

With the freezer door closed, press your ear to the door near the evaporator area. If you hear the compressor but no fan noise, open the freezer, press the door switch and check voltage at the fan — if voltage is present but it doesn't run, replace the fan motor.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I know if the evaporator fan motor is bad or just blocked by ice?

After unplugging the refrigerator and removing the rear freezer panel, try spinning the fan blade by hand. If it spins freely but the motor doesn't run when powered, the motor is likely bad. If the blade is frozen or won't turn, defrost the area fully and test again — persistent resistance after defrost points to motor/bearing failure.

Can I run the refrigerator with the evaporator fan replaced by a different motor?

You should replace the fan with a compatible motor and blade sized for your model. Using an incorrect motor (different voltage, RPM, shaft size, or mounting) can cause poor airflow, noise, or electrical problems. Always verify part compatibility using your model number and the OEM part reference.

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