Samsung Ice Maker Assembly (DA97-07365G-00) — What Part Fixes Ice-Making Problems
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Understanding the Problem
What this part is and why it matters: The DA97-07365G-00 is an OEM Samsung freezer ice maker assembly (ice mold, motor/gearbox, fill mechanism and associated thermostat/heater components). It controls the fill, freeze and eject cycle for ice production. When it fails you will often have no ice, partial/undersized ice, continuous water flow into the ice mold, overflowing bin, or iced-up molds that never harvest. Step-by-step diagnostic & repair steps: 1) Confirm the symptom: Is the ice maker not producing any ice, producing small/soft ice, leaking/overfilling, or making noise but not ejecting ice? Note the exact behavior — helps narrow cause. 2) Basic checks (do these first): a. Verify water supply — ensure the refrigerator water line and shutoff valve are open and water pressure is normal. A kinked/blocked line or closed valve will prevent filling. b. Inspect the water filter — a clogged filter can reduce/stop fill. Replace if overdue. c. Confirm freezer temperature — ice makers generally need the freezer at ~0°F (-18°C). If temperature is too warm, the maker won't cycle. d. Check the ice bin and dispenser door (if present) — obstructions can prevent the ice maker from cycling. 3) Visual & manual checks inside freezer: a. Remove the ice bin and examine the ice maker for obvious damage, cracks in the mold, or frozen water/ice bridges around the fill tube. b. Check the fill tube for ice blockage. If frozen, defrost the area (turn off fridge or use hair dryer carefully) and retest. 4) Test the ice maker electrical connector and wiring: Unplug the fridge or kill power, remove the ice maker cover, inspect the harness for corrosion or broken wires. Re-seat the connector to the main harness. 5) Run a harvest/test cycle (model-dependent): Many Samsung ice makers can be forced into a harvest cycle by pressing a diagnostic/test button on the ice maker or using the refrigerator service mode. If the motor runs and the mold heater engages (you may hear clicking or a humming heater), but no water fills, the issue is likely the water valve. If the heater runs but ice doesn’t eject, the motor/gearbox may be bad. 6) Check components with a multimeter (power off and harness disconnected): a. Continuity of the motor/gearbox circuit — open circuit suggests motor/gearbox failure. b. Continuity of the mold thermistor/thermostat — if open, the ice maker won’t cycle. c. Continuity of the heater (if present) — open heater reads as failure and causes freeze/stick problems. 7) Test the water inlet valve (at the rear of the fridge): With the ice maker commanded to fill (or during a cycle), verify the valve energizes and supplies water. If the valve does not open despite having 120V/appropriate control voltage applied, replace the valve. If the valve energizes but no water flows, check the supply line and valve screen. 8) Decide repair vs replacement: If the motor/gearbox, thermostat or heater fails continuity checks, or the plastic mold is cracked, replace the entire DA97-07365G-00 ice maker assembly. If only the water inlet valve is bad, replace the valve instead. 9) Replacement steps (practical how-to): a. Unplug the refrigerator or turn off power at the breaker. Shut off the water supply to the fridge. b. Remove ice bin and the trim/cover that secures the ice maker. Keep screws in a safe place. c. Disconnect the electrical connector to the ice maker and detach the water fill tube from the ice maker (some models have a quick-disconnect fitting; gently pull or depress the clip depending on design). d. Remove the mounting screws and carefully pull the old assembly out. e. Install the new DA97-07365G-00 in reverse: mount, reconnect the water tube and electrical connector, reattach covers and ice bin, restore water and power. f. Run a test cycle or put fridge into diagnostic mode to initiate a fill/harvest cycle. Check for leaks and proper harvesting over the next 24–48 hours. 10) Final checks: Confirm freezer temperature is in range and that the ice bin fills normally with properly formed cubes over several cycles. Safety note: Always disconnect power before working on electrical components. Shut off the water supply before disconnecting plumbing. If you are uncomfortable working with wiring or water lines, hire a qualified appliance technician.
Common Symptoms
No ice production, ice maker not cycling, continuous or intermittent water into ice mold, ice stuck in mold or malformed/undersized cubes, loud motor sounds without ejecting ice.
Common Causes
- Failed ice maker motor/gearbox or internal electronics
- Broken/cracked ice mold or stuck fill tube (ice bridge)
- Faulty water inlet valve, low water pressure, or clogged filter
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Helpful Repair Tip
Quick confirmation: remove power, disconnect the ice maker harness and check continuity of the motor/thermostat; if the heater and motor read open, the ice maker assembly (DA97-07365G-00) is likely bad.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I know if the DA97-07365G-00 is compatible with my Samsung refrigerator?
Check the model number of your refrigerator (usually on a sticker inside the fresh food compartment or on the side wall of the freezer). Cross-reference that model on Samsung parts sites or with the retailer. Compare the ice maker connector style, mounting pattern and fill tube location. If in doubt, provide your fridge model to the parts supplier to confirm compatibility.
Can I repair the ice maker instead of replacing the entire DA97-07365G-00 assembly?
Sometimes — if the issue is a frozen fill tube, clogged filter or faulty water valve you can fix those individually. You can also test/replace the water inlet valve separately. However, internal motor/gearbox, heater or thermostat failures usually require replacing the whole ice maker assembly because those components are integrated and sold as a unit.
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