For educational purposes only. Always consult a certified technician when unsure.

Samsung DV45H7000EWA2-02 Dryer Drum, Belt, Idler Pulley & Rollers – What Fails and How to Fix It

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Understanding the Problem

This guide covers the dryer drum belt, idler pulley and drum rollers/supports for the Samsung DV45H7000EWA2-02. These parts keep the drum turning smoothly. Over time bearings in the rollers and idler wear out or the belt frays/stretches, causing squealing, scraping, slow/no drum rotation or the drum slipping. 1) Initial checks (quick diagnostic): a. Unplug the dryer. Spin the drum by hand. Note any roughness, rumbling, wobble or scraping sounds. Small knocks or resistance indicate worn rollers or seized idler. b. Inspect the belt (through the front gap or after removing front panel). Look for fraying, glazing, cracks or broken fibers. c. Roll each drum roller by hand (when the drum is removed) or listen for squeal while turning the drum: a worn bearing will feel rough or turn intermittently. d. Check for visible play in the drum: press down on the top/side of the drum — >1/2" of free play or visible sag suggests worn rollers or failed support bearings. 2) Parts to inspect and which to replace first: a. Drum rollers/supports — replace if they spin roughly, have flat spots, wobble or the drum has side-to-side play. b. Idler pulley — replace if it makes squealing/grinding noises or the belt slips off. c. Belt — replace if cracked, frayed, glazed or if the belt is slipping despite a good idler. d. Drum glides/slides and rear bearing — replace if worn or scored where the drum rides. 3) Step-by-step repair: replacing belt, idler pulley and rollers (general steps — verify exact fastener locations for your model): a. Safety first: unplug the dryer and turn off gas if gas model. Work on a clean floor and use protective gloves. b. Remove the top panel: typically two screws at the back, then slide top forward and lift. (Some models have clips under the control panel — gently lift.) c. Remove the control console or move it out of the way if required to access the front panel screws. d. Remove the front panel: disconnect door switch wiring, remove screws that hold the front, then lift the panel off. e. Remove the drum: lift drum out of the cabinet (may require removing or moving the belt off the idler). Note belt routing for reassembly (belt usually loops around drum then around idler and drive motor pulley). f. Inspect rollers, idler and belt closely. Replace any parts that show wear. For rollers: remove bracket screws, slide out old roller assemblies and replace with new ones; make sure shafts seat fully in support holes and bearings spin freely. g. Replace idler pulley: compress/loosen tensioner, remove old pulley and replace with new. Ensure it spins freely and the belt runs on the pulley flange properly. h. Replace belt: feed the new belt around the drum in the same routing, set the drum back into the cabinet, route the belt around the motor pulley and idler so the ribbed side engages the motor and idler. Make sure the belt sits in the drum groove properly and there are no twists. i. Reassemble front panel, reconnect door switch wiring, reinstall control panel/top and screws. j. Test run: plug dryer in, start a no-heat or air-fluff cycle to verify the drum spins smoothly, no unusual noises and no belt rubbing or slipping. 4) Final adjustments and checks: - Confirm drum runs true with minimal side-to-side play and no scraping. If there is still noise/drag, re-check roller seating and rear drum bearing/glide pads. - Inspect venting if the dryer overheats after repairs—restricted venting can damage parts. Safety note: Always unplug the dryer before starting work. If your dryer is gas-powered, shut off the gas supply and, if you disconnect gas fittings, have a qualified technician perform the reconnection. Wear eye protection and gloves, and keep loose clothing and jewelry away from moving parts.

Common Symptoms

Squealing or grinding noise when drum turns, drum slips or won’t turn, noticeable drum wobble or side-to-side play, belt fraying/breaking, uneven wear on drum glides.

Common Causes

  • Worn or seized drum rollers/support bearings
  • Failing idler pulley bearing or weak tension spring
  • Cracked, stretched or broken dryer belt

Popular Parts That Fix This Problem

These are the most common replacement parts that fix this problem. When you're ready to order, click below to find the right part at ProsourceParts.com — just search by your appliance model number for a guaranteed fit.

Verify OEM kit for DV45H7000EWA2-02 (purchase 'drum roller kit' for your model)Drum Support Roller (rear/front roller assemblies — kit)
Verify OEM idler pulley for DV45H7000EWA2-02 (often sold as 'idler pulley assembly' for Samsung dryeIdler Pulley / Tensioner
Verify OEM belt part number for DV45H7000EWA2-02 (buy 'drum belt' compatible with your model)Dryer Drum Belt (replacement belt)
Verify OEM drum glide kit for DV45H7000EWA2-02Drum Glide Pads / Slides (felt or plastic glides)
Verify model-specific rear drum bearing / sealRear Drum Bearing / Rear Felt Seal (if applicable)
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Helpful Repair Tip

With the drum removed, spin each roller and the idler pulley by hand — a noisy or gritty feel means replace that part. Also grab the belt and push it into the idler; if the idler doesn’t spring back firmly, replace the idler.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I replace the drum rollers, idler and belt myself?

Yes — this is a common DIY repair and many homeowners can complete it with basic tools (screwdrivers, nut drivers, pliers). Allow 60–120 minutes. Make sure the dryer is unplugged (and gas off if gas model). Follow step-by-step instructions and verify the correct replacement parts for your exact model.

How do I know which part is causing the noise or wobble?

Do a simple hand-spin test: remove power and spin the drum manually. If the drum has gritty resistance or the noise seems to come from the sides/rear, suspect the rollers or rear bearing. If there’s a high-pitched squeal when the motor runs, the idler pulley or belt may be slipping. Remove the drum and spin the idler/rollers by hand — rough or non-free spinning parts are the culprits.

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