Samsung DV45H Heating Element – What Fixes a Dryer That Won't Heat
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Understanding the Problem
Brief explanation: If your Samsung dryer (DV45H series) tumbles but produces little or no heat, the heating element assembly is a common culprit. The heating element generates the hot air; when it fails (open coil, short, or broken mount), the dryer will not heat or will heat intermittently. However, the thermal fuse, thermostats, cycling thermostat, blower/vent restriction, and power supply should also be checked because they commonly cause the same symptoms. Step-by-step diagnostic and repair steps: 1) Confirm symptom and basics - Symptom: dryer runs, drum turns, but little/no heat OR very low/weak heat. - Check the vent and lint screen for heavy restriction first (clean before testing). - Make sure the dryer is receiving full voltage (240V for electric dryers): test outlet with a multimeter or verify with a known-working appliance. 2) Visual inspection - Unplug the dryer and move it away from the wall. Remove the vent hose and look for heavy lint build-up inside the duct and dryer outlet. - Remove the rear access panel (or front lower panel depending on model) and visually inspect the heating element housing for obvious damage: broken or burned coils, melted insulation, or burnt connectors. 3) Test the heating element for continuity - With the dryer unplugged, disconnect the wires to the element and use a multimeter set to ohms. Measure across the element terminals. A working element typically shows low resistance (usually tens of ohms). An open (infinite) reading indicates a failed element. - Also check for short to ground: measure resistance from each element terminal to the metal chassis; any low resistance (near zero) indicates a shorted element and it must be replaced. 4) Check related safety parts (do these before replacing element if element tests good) - Thermal fuse: test continuity. If the thermal fuse is open, the dryer will not heat even if the element is good. Replace any open thermal fuse. - High-limit thermostat and cycling thermostat: test for continuity at room temperature. Replace if open or out-of-spec. 5) Replace the heating element assembly (if failed) - Tools: nut driver or socket set (usually 1/4" or 5/16"), screwdriver, needle-nose pliers, multimeter, work gloves. - Steps: a) Unplug the dryer and shut off gas (if gas model). For electric models, disconnect power at outlet or breaker. b) Pull the dryer away and remove the vent hose. c) Remove the rear access panel (or front lower panel on some models) to expose the heater housing. d) Take a photo of wiring for reference. Disconnect the heater wiring harness and remove any mounting screws or clips holding the heater assembly. e) Carefully remove the heating element assembly from the housing. Note any gasket or insulation placement. f) Install the new heating element assembly, reconnect wiring exactly as removed, and secure mounting screws and any insulation/gasket. g) Reinstall the access panel, reconnect the vent, restore power, and run a test cycle. Verify the dryer heats and there are no unusual smells or electrical tripping. 6) Final checks - After replacement, verify airflow through the vent and that the dryer reaches normal operating temperature. Monitor for any unusual noises or cycling that could indicate other issues. Safety note: Always disconnect power before testing or working on the dryer. Heating elements and thermostats can retain heat and sharp sheet metal edges exist inside the cabinet. If you are uncomfortable working on powered appliances, hire a qualified technician.
Common Symptoms
Dryer tumbles but produces no heat or only weak heat; dryer takes far longer to dry; tripping circuit breaker or burning smell (rare).
Common Causes
- Open or shorted heating element coil
- Blown thermal fuse or failed thermostat(s) preventing power to the element
- Restricted venting or clogged lint screen reducing airflow and causing overheating/shutdown
- Insufficient voltage (one hot leg missing on a 240V circuit) or wiring problem
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Helpful Repair Tip
Use a multimeter: a working heating element will show low resistance (tens of ohms) and NOT continuity to the metal chassis. An infinite reading across the element = replace it. Also, if the element coils look broken or burnt, replace it without further testing.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I know the heating element is bad vs. the thermal fuse?
Test both. With power OFF and wires disconnected, measure the heating element for continuity across its terminals — an open circuit indicates a bad element. Then test the thermal fuse for continuity; if the thermal fuse is open, it will block power to the element even if the element is good. Replace whichever part tests open. Also visually inspect the element for broken coils or burn marks.
Can I run the dryer with a partially working heating element?
You might get some heat if parts of the element are intact, but performance will be poor and it may take much longer to dry clothes. A partially shorted or damaged element can also cause other components to overheat or trip breakers, so replace a faulty element rather than continuing to use it.
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