Replace Clutch Kit 28575 / Verify Part 11026924503 — What You Need to Know

Understanding the Problem

You listed two part numbers: 11026924503 and clutch kit 28575. I can't confirm exact compatibility without your washer's make and model, but these look like references related to a washer drive/clutch assembly. Clutch kits are used on many top-load washers to connect the transmission to the basket and allow spinning under load. Typical failures cause no spin, slipping, grinding, or a burning smell. 1) Confirm the correct part: a) Locate your washer model number (usually on the back panel, inside the door opening, or on the cabinet behind the control panel). b) Enter that model on the manufacturer's parts lookup or a reputable parts site and match the exploded view to the part number. c) Compare the old part's shape/bolt pattern to the new part and verify mounting hardware and spline size. 2) Diagnose before replacing: a) Symptom check — is the washer failing to spin, making scraping/grinding noises at spin, or slipping under load? b) Manually spin the basket (with power off) — if it spins freely or feels rough/gritty, clutch or bearing may be bad. c) Inspect for oil/grease contamination on clutch surfaces (transmission oil leak) and check the drive belt condition. 3) Tools & prep: socket set including 9/16"–1/2" sockets, ratchet, screwdriver set, pliers, putty knife, work gloves, safety glasses, floor protection, container for small parts. Have the replacement clutch kit and any recommended seals/bearings ready. Unplug the washer and turn off water if you will remove the cabinet. 4) General replacement steps (typical top-load washer clutch): a) Unplug the washer and shut off water (if removing cabinet near water valves). b) Pull the washer away from the wall and remove the cabinet or tilt-back top per your model's service method (usually remove two spring clips or screws under the top, then lift or tilt the top and lift the cabinet off). Use model-specific instructions if available. c) Remove the agitator to gain access (often a bolt under a cap). Remove agitator if necessary. d) Support the inner tub/basket so it doesn't fall and remove the belt (if your model uses a belt). Note belt routing for reassembly. e) Remove motor mounting bolts, then remove the motor and idler assembly to access the clutch and brake area. Keep track of spacers and washers. f) Loosen and remove the clutch assembly — this may involve removing a large nut/bolt securing the clutch to the transmission shaft and sliding the clutch off. Some clutches use retaining pins or bolts; follow the kit instructions. g) Inspect the mating surfaces, brake pad, and transmission shaft for wear. Clean old grease and debris. Replace any worn or leaking seals; if transmission is leaking oil onto the clutch, fix the leak or the new clutch will fail quickly. h) Install the new clutch kit components in the correct order from the kit instructions. Apply light grease where specified (never on friction surfaces). Tighten retaining nut to specified torque if available; snug and recheck per kit instructions. i) Reinstall motor, belt, idler and any removed hardware. Reinstall agitator and cabinet. Reconnect power and run a test spin with an empty load, then a small test load to confirm normal spin and no odd noises. 5) If after replacement you still have slipping or noise, re-inspect for oil contamination, worn transmission, or a seized drum bearing — these can mimic clutch failure. Safety note: Always unplug the washer before working on it, wear eye protection and gloves, and use proper lifting technique. If you are unsure about removing the cabinet or working near the transmission, consider a service call. If you send your washer model number (example: Whirlpool WTW5000KW0 or similar) I will confirm whether 11026924503 or 28575 is the correct part and provide a model-specific step-by-step diagram and torque values.

Common Symptoms

Washer won't spin or spins weakly; loud scraping/grinding during spin; burning or rubber smell at spin; excessive slippage or slow spin speed.

Common Causes

• Worn or glazed clutch friction surfaces causing slipping
• Oil or transmission fluid contamination on the clutch
• Broken or worn clutch components, or seized drum bearings affecting clutch engagement

Popular Parts That Fix This Problem

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Frequently Asked Questions