Replace Drive and Pump Belts on a Maytag A112 Washer – Step-by-Step Repair Guide
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Understanding the Problem
What this guide covers: Drive and pump belts transfer motor power to the tub (drive) and the drain pump (pump). When either belt is worn, loose or broken you’ll see failure to spin/agitate, poor draining, or squealing. Below are step-by-step diagnostics and replacement instructions for the Maytag A112 series. 1) Prepare and inspect - Unplug the washer and turn off water (if moving the machine you may want to shut water off at the valves). Pull the washer out from the wall to access the rear or front service panels. Have a towel or shallow pan for any spills. - Locate the model tag (usually on the back of the washer cabinet or inside the console) and note the exact model number. This helps if you need to order exact replacement belts. 2) Tools you’ll need - Nut drivers or socket set (typically 1/4", 5/16", 3/8" sockets), Phillips and flat screwdrivers - Pliers, work gloves, flashlight - New drive belt and pump belt (see parts section). Optionally a flashlight and mirror to inspect pulleys. 3) Access the belts - Many Maytag top-load washers give access to the belts from the rear or by removing a lower front access panel. For A112-style machines: remove the rear access panel first (remove screws holding the panel). If no rear panel, remove the lower front panel or tilt cabinet forward following the sheetmetal fasteners. - With the panel off you will see the motor at the bottom, the drive pulley on the motor, the transmission/tub pulley and the pump pulley. The drive belt typically runs from the motor to the transmission/tub pulley. The pump belt runs from the motor to the pump pulley (or from tub/trans pulley to pump depending on configuration). 4) Diagnose which belt is bad - If the motor runs (you can hear it) but the tub does not spin/agitate: suspect the drive belt is broken/slipped. - If the washer won’t drain but you hear motor running during drain/spin: suspect the pump belt or a seized pump. - Visual inspection: look for cracked, glazed, missing sections, frayed fabric, or belt slack. If belt is glazed and slipping you may hear squealing under load. 5) Remove the old belts - Note or photograph belt routing before removal. If belts are intact but loose, mark their run order. - Loosen motor mounting bolts slightly (do not remove) so you can move the motor forward and relieve tension. On some models you may need to remove a motor brace or disconnect a retaining clip. - Slip the pump belt off the pump pulley first, then remove the drive belt from the transmission/tub pulley and motor pulley. If a belt is seized, you may need to remove motor mounting bolts and lower the motor slightly to get it free. 6) Inspect pulleys and pump - Spin the pump pulley by hand: it should turn freely and smoothly. If it’s gritty or tight, replace the pump assembly or service the pump bearings instead of just replacing the belt. - Inspect motor pulley and transmission/tub pulley for damage, excessive wear, or obstructions. 7) Install new belts - Route the new drive belt around the transmission/tub pulley and over the motor pulley. For pump belt, route per the photographed layout. - Position belts with even contact on pulleys; avoid twisting belts. - Move the motor back to tension the belts and tighten the motor mounting bolts to secure tension. Belts should be snug — you should be able to depress the center of the belt ~1/2" to 1" with moderate pressure (check manufacturer spec if available). Too tight strains bearings; too loose will slip. 8) Reassemble and test - Reinstall access panels and reconnect power. Run a small spin/agitate and a drain cycle to confirm operation: the tub should spin without slipping, and the drain pump should run and remove water. - Listen for unusual grinding or squealing. If noise persists, recheck tension and pulley condition. 9) Final checks - After a successful test run, return the washer to its location, reconnect water if turned off, and check for leaks. Safety note: Always unplug the washer before working inside it. Use gloves and eye protection. If you are unsure about working around motors and electrical components, consider hiring a qualified appliance technician.
Common Symptoms
Washer won't spin or agitate, washer won't drain, loud squealing during spin, visible cracked or frayed belt.
Common Causes
- Normal wear and age causing belt cracking, glazing or breakage
- Loose or incorrectly tensioned motor causing belt slip
- Seized or worn pump or motor pulley damaging the belt
- Foreign object jamming pump or pulley causing belt failure
Popular Parts That Fix This Problem
These are the most common replacement parts that fix this problem. When you're ready to order, click below to find the right part at ProsourceParts.com — just search by your appliance model number for a guaranteed fit.
Helpful Repair Tip
Confirm which belt is faulty by running a drain or spin cycle with the cabinet off: if you hear the motor run but the drum doesn't move, the drive belt is bad; if the motor runs but the pump pulley doesn’t spin (and the washer doesn’t drain), the pump belt or pump is the issue.
Frequently Asked Questions
How long does it take to replace the drive and pump belts?
For a homeowner with basic tools expect 45–90 minutes: remove the access panel, inspect, remove and replace both belts, tension, and test. If pulleys or pump need replacement it may take longer.
Can I use any replacement belt I find online?
No — belt length, cross-section and routing vary by model. Use the model tag to confirm the exact belt part number or buy a belt listed for your Maytag A112 model. If unsure, order OEM or a reputable aftermarket belt specified for your model.
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