Kenmore 66702692 No Heat After Replacing Element and Thermostats – What to Check Next
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Understanding the Problem
If your electric Kenmore dryer (model 66702692) tumbles but produces no heat even after replacing the heating element, cycling thermostat, thermal fuse and thermal cut-off, the problem is likely outside the parts you already changed. The heating circuit needs both intact components and correct 240 VAC supply and switching to actually energize the element. Common remaining failure points include power delivery (lost leg of 240V), the dryer’s terminal block or cord, the motor’s centrifugal switch (which closes the heater circuit only when the motor runs), and the control/timer or relay that routes voltage to the heater. Systematic testing will isolate whether the element itself is actually receiving voltage when the dryer is running, whether a wiring/connection issue or switch is interrupting the circuit, or whether a control/board or motor internal switch has failed. Start with safe voltage checks at the terminal block and then trace the heating circuit wiring, checking continuity for interlocks and the centrifugal switch on the motor. This approach finds the single missing link keeping the element from getting power even though you replaced the thermal safety components.
Common Symptoms
Drum tumbles normally but dryer does not heat; no visible sparks or smell from element; circuit breaker not tripped; new parts replaced but still no heat; sometimes partial heat or intermittent heating.
Common Causes
- Loss of one hot leg from the house circuit (broken/tripped double-pole breaker or faulty outlet) preventing 240 V to the heater
- Bad connection at the terminal block or damaged power cord/wiring delivering only 120 V (motor runs) but no 240 V to the element
- Faulty motor centrifugal switch (internal switch that only supplies heater when motor runs)
- Failed control board, timer contacts, or heater relay not sending voltage to the element
- Damaged wiring or a connector that opens under load between components
- Defective replacement heating element or incorrect part for the model (rare but possible)
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Helpful Repair Tip
With the dryer running (tumbler turning), carefully measure voltage across the two hot terminals on the rear terminal block — you should have ~240 VAC. If 240 V is present but the element has no heat, next check for voltage at the element leads. No voltage at the element points to a wiring, switch, or control/relay/motor centrifugal switch problem.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why does my dryer tumble but not heat after I replaced the element and thermostats?
Tumbling only requires a single 120 VAC feed to run the motor; heating requires both hot legs (240 VAC) and a closed heating circuit. If one hot leg is missing (tripped/blown breaker or bad cord/terminal), or if a switch/relay that supplies the element is open (motor centrifugal switch, control board relay, timer contact), the drum will tumble but the element will not receive the 240 V needed to generate heat.
How can I safely test whether the element is getting voltage?
Unplug the dryer and access the rear terminal block wiring schematic first. Restore power, start a drying cycle with the drum turning, then carefully measure voltage across the two hot terminals at the dryer’s terminal block using a multimeter (expect ~240 VAC). Next measure at the element’s two input wires. If you see 240 VAC at the terminal block but not at the element, trace wiring and check the motor centrifugal switch and any control relays. If you do not see 240 VAC at the terminal block, check your home breakers/outlet and the power cord/terminal block connections. Always follow lockout/tagout and safety procedures when working with live voltage.
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