MED6630HC2 Lint Filter Housing Replacement – How to Replace the Lint Trap Housing
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Understanding the Problem
What this part does and why it fails: The lint filter housing (lint trap housing) holds the lint screen and seals the airflow path between the dryer drum and the exhaust. If the housing is cracked, warped, or its retaining tabs are broken the screen won't seat properly, lint will bypass into the exhaust plenum, airflow will be reduced, and the dryer will be less efficient and may overheat. Step-by-step diagnostic and replacement steps: 1) Confirm the problem - Remove the lint screen and inspect the housing visually. Look for: cracks, broken plastic tabs, warped edges, missing mounting screws, or a loose fit when you press the screen in and out. - If lint falls into the cabinet when you remove the screen or the screen doesn’t sit flush, the housing is almost certainly the issue. 2) Order the correct replacement part - Get the exact OEM or compatible lint filter housing that matches MED6630HC2. If the part number isn’t printed on the old housing, match by dryer model and serial number on the nameplate (usually on the door frame or rear panel). Many parts suppliers let you search by model. 3) Gather tools and prepare - Tools: Phillips and flat screwdriver, Torx driver set (if needed), needle-nose pliers, putty knife or trim tool, cloth, and work gloves. - Time: 30–60 minutes for a straightforward housing swap; up to 90 minutes if you must remove the front/top panel. - Safety: Unplug the dryer. If it’s a gas dryer, turn off the gas supply and move the dryer away from the wall so you can access the rear and sides. 4) Accessing the lint filter housing (two common configurations) - If the housing is a simple top-mounted or door opening trap (most common): a) Open the door/top and remove the lint screen. Use a putty knife or small screwdriver to depress any retaining clips and pry out the housing if it’s a snap-in type. b) Remove any visible screws holding the housing in place (usually inside the opening). Keep screws in a small container. c) Pull the old housing out. Note orientation and how the screen and gasket seat. - If the housing is behind a top/front panel and not reachable from the opening: a) Remove the lower toe kick or front panel screws (check around the door opening and base). On many front-load dryers you must remove the front panel: unplug door switch connector(s) and lift the front panel off its bottom hooks. b) With the front/top panel removed you’ll have clear access to the housing screws and clips—remove the housing as above. 5) Remove the old housing - Carefully cut away any accumulated lint that’s binding the housing. Take pictures of mounting locations if helpful. - Release any electrical connectors if the housing incorporates a door switch or sensor (make note of connector location before disconnecting). 6) Install the new housing - Clean the opening and remove loose lint. Test-fit the new housing dry to verify alignment. - Seat the housing firmly, reinstall the mounting screws or snap clips, and reconnect any switches. - Reinstall the lint screen, ensure it seats flush and locks as designed. 7) Reassemble and test - Reinstall any panels or kick plates removed. Reconnect the dryer to power (and gas if applicable). Run a short, empty cycle and verify: the lint screen seats properly, airflow feels normal at the exhaust, and there are no rattles or gaps. - Check for abnormal amounts of lint downstream after the first few cycles—some loose lint is normal when new parts are installed. Safety note: Always unplug the dryer and, for gas units, shut off the gas before doing repairs. If you’re uncomfortable removing body panels or working near the gas valve or electrical components, hire a qualified technician.
Common Symptoms
Lint falling into the drum or cabinet, lint accumulating behind the dryer, reduced airflow and longer dry times, lint screen not seating flush, or a cracked/warped plastic opening.
Common Causes
- Cracked or broken mounting tabs from repeated removal of the lint screen
- Heat warping the plastic over many years (especially if lint buildup causes overheating)
- Impact damage or improper handling when removing/cleaning the screen
Popular Parts That Fix This Problem
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Helpful Repair Tip
With the lint screen removed, press the screen into the housing and wiggle it — if there’s visible play, broken tabs, or the screen doesn't snap in flush on all sides, the housing needs replacement.
Frequently Asked Questions
How much does it cost to replace the lint filter housing?
Part cost varies by manufacturer and source; expect $20–$70 for most OEM or high-quality aftermarket housings. If you hire a technician, add 30–90 minutes of labor depending on access — labor costs vary regionally.
Can I glue or tape a cracked lint filter housing instead of replacing it?
Temporary fixes like epoxy or high-temperature adhesive can work short-term for small cracks, but they often fail because the housing endures repeated mechanical stress and heat. For a reliable, safe repair (and to maintain proper airflow and lint containment), replace the housing with the correct part.
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