MED5570TQ0 Electric Range/Oven — Troubleshooting & Repair Guide
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Understanding the Problem
This guide covers common problems owners report on electric ranges/ovens with model numbers like MED5570TQ0: oven not heating, burners not working, incorrect temperature, control/clock failures, or self-clean problems. Follow the numbered diagnostic steps below to identify the likely cause and perform safe repairs. 1) Safety & preparation - Always disconnect power before working: flip the circuit breaker off for the range (do not rely on the control panel OFF). Verify power is off with a non-contact voltage tester or multimeter at the terminal block. - Have basic tools: flat & Phillips screwdrivers, socket set, needle-nose pliers, multimeter, work gloves, flashlight. 2) If the oven will not heat at all - Check power: confirm 240V is present at the range terminal block (two hot legs) when breaker on. If you have no 240V, check breakers and fuses. If one leg is missing you may get partial heat or no broil/bake. - Inspect bake element: visually check for breaks, blistering or burning. Test continuity with a multimeter (expect low ohms, typically 10–40Ω). If open, replace the bake element. - Inspect broil element: if broil doesn't work but bake does, test broil element continuity and terminals. - Check oven temperature sensor: remove sensor from rear wall and measure resistance at room temp (typically ~1000–1100Ω at 70°F for many models). If out of range or open, replace sensor. - Oven control/relay board: if elements and sensor test good but no heat or intermittent heat, the oven control board or relay may be faulty. Look for burn marks or swollen capacitors and test output voltages if you can safely do so. 3) If oven heats but temperature is wrong (too hot / too cold) - Calibrate the control: many digital controls allow temp offset. Try a +/– calibration first. - Test oven temperature sensor resistance vs expected values. Replace if out of spec. - Check for damaged insulation or thermostat/thermistor problems. 4) If surface burners don’t heat or are intermittent - For coil elements: test element continuity and the element plug connection. Swap with a known-good element (if identical) to confirm. - For smooth-top ranges: test the terminal connections, indicator lights, and the surface infinite switch. The infinite switch (control knob switch) commonly fails — test for continuity when turned on, replace if defective. 5) If control/display/clock is dead or unresponsive - Confirm 120VAC feed to the control board (some parts of the board use 120V). Inspect ribbon cable and connectors between control and user interface. If display is blank but range has power, the control board or console may be faulty and require replacement. 6) Self-clean or door lock problems - Door latch/lock motor can fail or get mechanically stuck. Check for broken actuators or a failed door lock switch. Replace the door lock assembly if the latch will not engage or disengage. 7) How to replace common parts (general steps) - Bake/Broil element: 1) Cut power at breaker. 2) Open oven door and remove racks. 3) Remove mounting screws at the rear inside wall, pull element forward to access rear spade connectors. 4) Disconnect spade connectors (note their positions) and remove element. 5) Install new element, reconnect spades, reinstall screws and test after power restored. - Oven temperature sensor: 1) Power off. 2) Remove screws securing sensor to oven rear wall and pull sensor out through access hole. 3) Disconnect the two-wire connector. 4) Install new sensor, secure it so it points into oven cavity, restore power and test. - Infinite switch (surface control): 1) Power off. 2) Remove back panel or lift top per your model to access switch. 3) Disconnect wires (take a photo) and remove mounting screws. 4) Install new switch, reconnect wires and test. - Control board/console: 1) Power off. 2) Remove control panel escutcheon to access connectors. 3) Label and disconnect all harnesses and remove control board screws. 4) Fit the replacement, reconnect harnesses exactly, and test. Final safety note: Electricity inside ranges is lethal. If you are not comfortable proving voltage and working on high-voltage appliances, stop and call a qualified appliance technician. Always confirm power is off before touching wiring and use insulated tools where possible.
Common Symptoms
Oven won't heat or heats unevenly, broil works but bake doesn't, surface burners won’t heat, oven runs too hot or too cold, control/display not responding, door won't lock for self-clean.
Common Causes
- Failed bake or broil heating element
- Open or inaccurate oven temperature sensor (thermistor)
- Faulty oven control board or relays
- Missing 240V supply or a tripped breaker / blown fuse
- Failed infinite switch or terminal connection on surface elements
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Helpful Repair Tip
To confirm a bad bake element quickly: with power off remove the element's two spade connectors and test continuity with a multimeter—an open reading (infinite) means the element is bad and should be replaced.
Frequently Asked Questions
How can I tell if the bake element or the oven sensor is the problem?
Start visually: a broken, blistered or burned element usually needs replacement. With power off, disconnect the element and test continuity with a multimeter; an open circuit means replace it. For temperature problems, measure the oven temperature sensor resistance at room temp — many sensors are ~1000Ω at 70°F. If sensor resistance is far off spec or open, replace the sensor. If both test good but oven still misbehaves, suspect the control board or wiring.
Can I replace parts myself or do I need a technician?
Many owners can replace visible parts like bake/broil elements, the oven sensor, or a surface element if they are comfortable cutting power, removing panels, and using a multimeter. Control boards, door lock motors, and any work that requires testing live voltages or accessing the terminal block are higher risk — call a qualified technician if you are not experienced with high-voltage electrical work. Always turn off the breaker and verify power is off before starting any repair.
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