Maytag Washer Tub Bearing & Hub Replacement – Video Guide and Parts Checklist
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Understanding the Problem
Worn tub bearings or a damaged drive hub cause loud grinding or rumbling during spin, excessive tub wobble, slow or failed spins, and sometimes water leaks from the bottom of the washer. In many Maytag top-load and some front-load models the inner tub rides on a bearing pack and is bolted to a hub that transmits torque from the transmission; when the bearings wear or the hub splines strip, the tub can move unevenly and damage the seal and surrounding metal. Replacing the tub bearing and/or hub requires disassembling the washer: disconnect power and water, remove the agitator (if top-loader), remove the inner tub and possibly the outer tub or cabinet, press or drive out the old bearing and seal, install the new bearing, and replace the drive hub and retaining hardware. The job can be dirty and requires specialty tools (bearing puller/press, socket set, possibly a large nut socket and torque wrench). Confirm the exact parts for your Maytag model before ordering parts or following a video guide.
Common Symptoms
Loud rumbling or grinding during spin, strong vibration or tub wobble, slow/no spin, oil or water leaking from washer base, metal debris in the tub or filter.
Common Causes
- Normal wear of bearings and seals due to age and moisture ingress
- Corrosion or rust that damages bearing surfaces and seals
- Stripped splines on the drive hub or a seized hub/nut from improper previous repairs
Popular Parts That Fix This Problem
These are the most common replacement parts that fix this problem. When you're ready to order, click below to find the right part at PartsDiscount.com — just search by your appliance model number for a guaranteed fit.
Helpful Repair Tip
Lift the inner tub slightly off the transmission shaft and check for play by wiggling it; noticeable side-to-side play, loud grinding when spun by hand, or metal shavings in the bottom of the outer tub confirm bearing/hub failure.
Frequently Asked Questions
How can I tell if the problem is the bearing/hub and not the motor or suspension?
Start by running an empty spin cycle and listen: a bearing/hub failure produces a constant deep rumble or grinding tied to drum rotation and often gets louder with speed. Jack up or tilt the washer and manually spin the tub; listen for grinding and feel for roughness. Check for side-to-side play by grabbing the inner tub and wiggling it; significant play usually indicates worn bearings or a damaged hub, while motor issues typically cause electrical noise or failure to reach spin speed. Inspect the bottom of the outer tub for oil or metal shavings — metal debris is a reliable sign of bearing/hub wear.
Can I replace the tub bearing and hub myself, or should I call a professional?
If you have mechanical experience, the right tools (bearing puller/press, large sockets, breaker bar, possibly a hydraulic press), and patience, this is a doable DIY job that can save money. Expect several hours for first-timers and a messy workspace. However, if you lack tools, are uncomfortable disassembling the tub and transmission area, or if the transmission is damaged, hiring a technician is recommended. Professionals can also confirm whether a full transmission replacement is needed and will properly press the bearing to factory specifications.
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