Maytag MVWB725BW0 Tub Bearing & Hub Tool Kit — What Part Fixes This Problem?
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Understanding the Problem
What this kit is: The tub bearing & hub kit replaces the worn bearing, hub and usually the inner seal that support and locate the inner tub on top‑load Maytag machines (including MVWB725BW0). Worn bearings or a damaged hub cause loud rumbling, vibration, wobble and eventually tub leaks. The hub tool kit (bearing puller/installer) is used to remove the corroded hub from the outer tub and to press the new bearing and seal into place. Step-by-step diagnostic and repair steps: 1. Confirm the symptom: With the washer empty, run a spin-only cycle. If you hear loud grinding, rumbling, or a scraping noise that worsens with speed — and feel excessive tub movement by hand — the bearing/hub is likely bad. Also check for oil/grease or water around the bottom edge of the outer tub (a failed seal often leaks). 2. Safety first: Unplug the washer, shut off water supply, and disconnect the drain hose. Wear safety glasses and gloves. 3. Access the inner area: Remove the top panel (usually two screws at the back) and control console (clips or screws) to tilt or lift the top and access the agitator/inner tub. Remove the fabric softener cup, agitator cap, and agitator bolt then pull out the agitator. If the model has a clutch/agitator dogs, remove them per manual. 4. Remove the inner tub: Remove the tub ring or fabric dispenser and the retainer (usually spring or bolt) holding the inner tub to the outer tub. Lift off the inner tub. If it’s stuck, use balanced prying or warm water to loosen the plastic. 5. Remove the hub and bearing: With the inner tub removed you will see the hub bolted to the washer gearcase shaft and the bearing pressed into the outer tub. Remove the hub retaining bolt(s). Use a hub puller (3‑arm puller or the specific Maytag hub puller tool) to extract the hub from the bearing. If the hub won’t budge, spray penetrating oil, let sit, then use the puller. For heavy corrosion you may need to heat the hub slightly (carefully) to break the seam. 6. Press out the old bearing and race: Support the outer tub on a press or on wood blocks. Use the correct size driver and a hydraulic or arbor press to drive the bearing out from the opposite side. Do not press on the bearing lip — press on the outer race only. If you don’t have a press, carefully using a socket and hammer with even taps around the race can work but increases risk of damage. 7. Clean and inspect: Clean the bearing pocket of rust, corrosion and debris. File any high spots smooth. Inspect the outer tub for cracks around the bearing area. Replace the outer tub if cracked. Check the hub for deep corrosion or worn splines; replace if damaged. 8. Install the new bearing and seal: Use the bearing installer (driver) to press the new bearing into the tub using a press or by carefully striking the driver with a hammer until the bearing bottoms. Install the new tub seal (lip seal) using the correct installer to seat it squarely — pressing the seal evenly until flush. Many kits include a rubber seat and steel race — follow kit instructions. 9. Reinstall the hub and torque: Clean and lightly grease (non-water-soluble, OEM-recommended) the hub splines and shaft where specified. Slide the hub onto the shaft and torque the retaining bolt(s) to the manufacturer spec (consult service manual). Reverse disassembly: reinstall inner tub, agitator, top panels and control console. 10. Test: Reconnect power and water. Run a spin and fill cycle with no laundry to confirm quiet operation, no wobble, and no leaks. Monitor several cycles to ensure repair success. Safety note: Bearings are heavy and often rusted in — do not attempt to remove or press bearings with improvised tools that can slip and cause injury. If you lack an arbor press or hub puller, consider renting the puller or taking the outer tub to a machine shop for bearing removal/installation.
Common Symptoms
Loud rumbling or grinding during spin, excessive tub wobble or vibration, metallic scraping noises, water leaking from bottom of washer, grease or metal shavings in the washer base.
Common Causes
- Normal wear of the pressed-in tub bearing and seal over years of use
- Corrosion from trapped water or rusted hub splines causing the hub to seize
- Overloading, unbalanced loads, or repeated high-speed spins that accelerate bearing failure
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Helpful Repair Tip
Lift the inner tub and rotate it by hand: excessive lateral play (wobble > 1/4") or a distinct grinding/rubbing noise when spinning is a quick confirmation that the bearing/hub or inner tub seal has failed.
Frequently Asked Questions
How long does it take to replace the tub bearing and hub on an MVWB725BW0?
For an experienced DIYer with the right tools expect 2–4 hours. Without a press or hub puller it can take much longer; professional shops often complete the job in 1–2 hours (plus bearing press time if outsourced).
Can I replace only the seal or do I need the full bearing & hub kit?
If you only have a small leak and bearings show no noise or play, replacing just the seal may buy time. However, when a seal fails it often means the bearing is already compromised (contamination). Best practice is to replace bearing and seal together and inspect/replace the hub if splines or surfaces are damaged.
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