Maytag MGR5750ADW Oven Igniter – Diagnosis and Replacement Guide

Understanding the Problem

Brief explanation: The oven igniter (glowbar) on a gas Maytag range like the MGR5750ADW is what heats, glows, and opens the safety gas valve so burners light. When it weakens or fails the oven won't light, heats very slowly, or the igniter glows but the gas valve never opens. Step-by-step diagnostic and repair steps: 1) Safety first: Turn the circuit breaker for the range OFF and shut off the gas supply at the shutoff valve. Verify power is off with a non-contact tester before working. 2) Confirm symptom: Is the igniter not glowing at all, glowing faintly, or glowing but no gas? Note whether the broil/bake igniters behave differently. 3) Observe a cycle (carefully): Turn oven to bake and watch the igniter. A healthy igniter glows bright orange within a few seconds and the gas valve opens (you’ll hear the valve) and flame lights. If it takes very long or never lights, suspect the igniter. 4) Access the igniter: Remove oven racks, remove bottom panel or access through the broil burner area (check your manual). The igniter is mounted near the burner assembly for the bake burner. 5) Visual inspection: Look for cracks, broken ceramic, burned wiring, or melted connector. Any physical damage means replace the igniter. 6) Electrical resistance test (power still OFF): Disconnect the igniter connector and measure resistance across the igniter element with a multimeter. Typical glow igniters often measure in the low tens to a few hundred ohms (commonly ~20–120 Ω). A very high or infinite reading indicates an open circuit — replace. 7) Current (amp) draw test (best test): With the oven powered on and observing safe distance, measure the igniter amp draw with a clamp ammeter during startup. A weak igniter often glows but draws too little current to open the gas valve. Many gas oven valves require roughly 3.0–3.6 A to open; if the igniter draws significantly less (for example <3.0 A), replace the igniter. If you don’t have an ammeter, use the time-to-light rule: if the igniter glows for 90+ seconds before the oven lights or never opens the valve, it’s likely weak. 8) Check wiring and connectors: Inspect and, if necessary, clean or replace the harness/connector. A corroded connector or loose wiring can mimic a bad igniter. 9) Check the safety gas valve: If the igniter tests good (proper resistance and amp draw) but the valve never opens, suspect the gas valve or control board. Avoid replacing the valve before confirming the igniter’s amp draw. 10) Replace the igniter: With power and gas off, remove the mounting screws holding the igniter, disconnect the connector, swap the new igniter in place, reassemble. Restore gas and power and test operation. 11) Test final operation: Turn oven to bake and confirm igniter glows, gas valve opens, and burner lights within a few seconds to under a minute. Observe at least one full cycle. Safety note: Always disconnect electrical power and gas supply before disassembling. If you are not comfortable working around gas connections or testing with live voltage, call a licensed appliance technician or gas professional.

Common Symptoms

Oven fails to light or takes very long to light; igniter glows faintly or not at all; gas smell without ignition; oven won't reach set temperature.

Common Causes

• Weak or failed oven glow igniter (most common)
• Damaged or corroded igniter harness or connector
• Faulty oven safety gas valve
• Control board not sending power to igniter (less common)

Popular Parts That Fix This Problem

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Frequently Asked Questions