Maytag MGDX655DW2 Heavy Duty Dryer Repair Kit – What to Replace and How to Fix It
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Understanding the Problem
The Maytag MGDX655DW2 is a common heavy-duty dryer model. Over time the drum belt, rollers/idler, seals, and thermal safety parts wear out — causing noise, poor tumbling, long dry times or a dryer that won't start or stops mid-cycle. A dryer repair kit for this model typically includes the drum belt, idler pulley, drum rollers (and shafts/bearings), drum glides/felts, and sometimes thermal fuse/high-limit thermostat(s). Follow the numbered diagnostics and repair steps below to identify and fix the problem. 1) Tools & prep - Tools: Phillips and flat screwdrivers, 1/4" and 5/16" nut drivers or socket set, needle-nose pliers, putty knife, multimeter, work gloves, shop vacuum/rag. - Safety first: Unplug the dryer. If gas model, shut off gas supply. Allow the dryer to cool and remove clothes and the lint screen. 2) Visual & simple checks (5–10 minutes) - Open lint trap and remove any lint build-up behind it. Inspect the drum for rubbing marks, tears in the belt, or felt seals that are shredded. - Rotate the drum by hand. Listen for grinding, squeal, or feel for resistance/wobble. Rock the drum side-to-side to check for excessive movement. - Check venting: restricted venting can overheat the dryer and damage thermostats/element. 3) Identify most likely bad parts based on symptoms - Loud squeal during tumbling: worn drum rollers or bearings, glazed drum glides, or failing idler pulley. - Thumping or banging: broken roller shafts or drum support rollers. - Drum won’t turn or slips: broken/loose belt or bad idler pulley. - Dryer stops mid-cycle or won’t heat: thermal fuse or high-limit thermostat failure (confirm with continuity test). 4) Remove access panels and inspect (20–45 minutes) - Unplug dryer. Pull dryer away from wall. - Remove top panel: insert putty knife into slots under the front top edge, push clips and lift top. Some models use screws at the back instead. - Remove front panel: disconnect door switch connector, remove screws along the front and lift off front (support the drum while removing screws). - With the drum accessible, inspect belt, rollers, idler pulley, and front/rear felt seals. 5) Replace drum belt, rollers and idler (common repair kit procedure) - Release belt tension: push idler pulley toward motor to slack the belt and slip the belt off the motor pulley. Note belt routing (photo helps). - Remove drum: lift drum slightly and pull forward to clear the rear bulkhead; set drum aside. - Remove old rollers: typically two or three rollers located at the rear and/or front. Remove mounting screws/shaft and pull the rollers off. Replace roller shafts if included. - Install new rollers: fit new rollers onto shafts (use a little high-temp bearings grease if manufacturer allows) and tighten mounting screws to spec snug (do not over-tighten). - Replace idler pulley: remove the idler bracket bolt, swap in new pulley, and reattach bracket. - Replace belt: route new belt around the drum following the routing marks. Loop belt around motor pulley and under the idler; press idler to apply tension and position belt on motor pulley. - Check drum alignment and spin by hand; ensure smooth rotation and no rubbing on felt/glides. 6) Replace drum glides/felt seals (if included) - Remove old felt seals from front and rear bulkheads. Clean mating surfaces of lint and debris. - Press new felt seals into position. These are friction-fit or secured by small screws depending on the design. 7) Replace thermal fuse / high-limit thermostat (if dryer not heating or stops) - Locate thermal fuse on the blower housing or exhaust path. Disconnect wires and check continuity with a multimeter — an open circuit means replace. - Replace thermal fuse and any failed thermostats with OEM parts. Reconnect wires securely. 8) Reassembly and test - Reinstall drum, ensuring belt is centered in the drum groove. - Reattach front panel and door switch connector, then top panel. - Plug in dryer and run an empty, short cycle. Listen for abnormal noises and check that drum spins smoothly. For heating checks, run a timed heat cycle and verify warm air from vent. 9) Final checks - Inspect for lint leaks, test multiple cycles, and confirm proper vent airflow at the exterior outlet. Safety note: Always unplug the dryer and shut off gas before servicing. Thermal components and heating elements can remain hot — allow them to cool before touching. If you are unsure about gas or electrical connections, contact a licensed technician.
Common Symptoms
Loud squealing or grinding noise during tumble; thumping or banging; drum slips or won’t turn; long drying times; dryer runs but won’t heat or stops mid-cycle.
Common Causes
- Worn or seized drum rollers or bearings causing noise and poor rotation
- Worn or broken drum belt or failing idler pulley causing slipping or no tumble
- Blown thermal fuse or failed thermostat from overheating or restricted venting
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Helpful Repair Tip
To confirm rollers or idler are bad: rotate the drum by hand. If you hear squealing, grinding, or feel a rough spot at a particular rotation point, press on that area while spinning — the noise will change when a bad roller/shaft passes. For heat problems, check continuity of the thermal fuse with a multimeter; an open fuse = replace.
Frequently Asked Questions
How long will this repair take?
If you’ve got basic tools and the replacement kit, expect 45–90 minutes for belt/roller/idler replacement and 20–30 minutes for a thermal fuse swap. First-timers should allow extra time for careful disassembly and reassembly.
Can I install this repair kit myself or should I call a pro?
Many homeowners with basic mechanical skills can install a dryer repair kit (belt, rollers, idler, seals). Unplugging and simple hand tools are the main requirements. If you’re uncomfortable working with gas connections, the heating element assembly, or electrical testing, hire a qualified technician.
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