Maytag Dryer Tub Sealer – What Part Fixes This Problem?
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Understanding the Problem
What is the tub sealer (drum seal)? The tub sealer—commonly called the drum seal or drum felt—is a felt or rubber seal that sits between the dryer drum and the cabinet (front and/or rear). It keeps the drum centered, reduces friction and noise, and prevents clothes and lint from getting trapped between the drum and cabinet. Over time the felt or rubber wears, tears, compresses, or becomes contaminated with lint and fabric softener residue and must be replaced. Likely causes 1. Normal wear from years of rubbing between the drum and cabinet. 2. Lint, debris, or fabric softener buildup that abrades the seal. 3. Drum misalignment (worn rollers, glides, or bearing) that accelerates seal wear. 4. Overloading or wet loads that put extra pressure on the seal. Step-by-step diagnostic steps 1. Visual inspection: Remove the dryer lint screen and shine a flashlight along the drum seam. Look for shredded, compressed, or missing felt/rubber at the front and rear drum edges. 2. Listen for noise: Squealing or rubbing noises that change with drum rotation often indicate a worn seal or drum rubbing on the cabinet. 3. Check for fabric damage: If clothing shows frayed edges or snag marks along one side, it can indicate the drum lip is exposed where the seal is missing. 4. Check drum play: With the dryer off and unplugged, rotate the drum by hand and try to move it up/down and front/back. Excessive wobble suggests worn seals or worn drum-support parts. 5. Inspect surrounding parts: Look at the drum rollers/bearings and glides—if these are severely worn, they should be replaced because they often cause or accelerate seal failure. How to replace the tub sealer (typical Maytag dryer with front access) Tools & materials needed: Phillips and flat-head screwdrivers, nut driver or socket set (usually 1/4" or 5/16"), putty knife, needle-nose pliers, replacement drum seal kit (front/rear felt or rubber version for your exact model), work gloves, vacuum. 1. Safety first: Unplug the dryer. If it’s a gas dryer, shut off the gas supply and disconnect the gas line per manufacturer instructions. Work in a well-ventilated area. 2. Remove the top: On many Maytag models, release two clips at the front of the top or remove screws at the rear and lift the top up to expose the control and front panel area. 3. Remove the control console or front panel as required for your model so the front panel can be taken off. Keep track of screws and wire connector locations. 4. Remove the lint chute and any ducting attached to the front of the drum. 5. Loosen or remove the belt: Note the belt routing or take a photo first. Slide the belt off the motor pulley and idler to free the drum. 6. Remove the drum: Pull the drum straight out of the cabinet and set it on a clean surface. Inspect the drum lip where the felt seats to confirm wear. 7. Remove old seal: Use a putty knife or screwdriver to pry out the old felt/rubber. If it’s glued, scrape away the residue. Vacuum lint from the cabinet and the seal channel. 8. Inspect bearings/rollers/glides: If these are scored, flattened, or loose, replace them while you have the dryer apart. Replacing the seal alone with worn rollers will cause early re-failure. 9. Install new seal: Fit the new felt or rubber seal into the drum lip or cabinet channel per kit instructions. For front seals, align the felt over the drum edge and press it into place; rear seals may seat into the bulkhead. Some felt seals have an adhesive backing—remove protective paper and press firmly. Make sure the felt sits evenly around the circumference. 10. Reinstall the drum: Carefully slide the drum back into the cabinet, making sure the belt tracks in the drum groove and the drum edges seat against the new seals. 11. Re-route the belt and re-tension: Loop the belt over the motor pulley and idler; ensure correct tension and alignment. 12. Reassemble the front panel, console, and top in reverse order. Reconnect any electrical connectors. 13. Test: Plug the dryer back in (and reconnect gas if applicable). Run the dryer empty to listen for rubbing or unusual noises and to confirm the drum rotates smoothly and seals are seated. When to call a pro: If you find major drum damage, snapped support shafts, a broken bearing housing, extensive rust, or if you’re uncomfortable disconnecting gas lines, contact a qualified technician. Safety note: Always disconnect power before working on the dryer. If your dryer is gas-fired, shut off the gas supply and cap/disconnect per safety guidelines. If you smell gas after reassembly, evacuate, ventilate, and contact the gas company.
Common Symptoms
Squealing or rubbing noise, clothes catching or fraying at the edges, visible shredded or missing felt around the drum, excessive drum wobble, and increased lint escaping into the cabinet.
Common Causes
- Normal wear of felt/rubber over time
- Contaminants (lint, fabric softener, oil) that degrade the seal
- Drum misalignment due to worn rollers or bearings
- Overloading or mechanical damage
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Helpful Repair Tip
Confirm the faulty part by rotating the drum by hand: if you can see daylight or feel the drum edge scrape against the cabinet where the felt should be, the seal is bad. Also watch for fabric threads caught at the drum edge as you rotate.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I know if I need the tub sealer or something else (rollers, bearing, glides)?
Start with a visual and physical check: remove the lint screen and rotate the drum by hand. If you see shredded felt or metal on the drum edge, the seal is bad. If the drum rocks up/down or front/back significantly, rollers or bearings are likely worn and should be replaced at the same time. If the drum squeals but the felt looks intact, check bearings/rollers and glides for wear or flat spots.
Can I replace only the front seal, or should I replace the rear seal too?
You can replace just the front or rear seal if only one is worn, but it’s often best practice to replace both seals and inspect/replace rollers and glides at the same time. Replacing only one side while the other is worn can lead to rapid re-wear and more labor later. Also use a kit matched to your model for correct fit and adhesive.
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