Maytag Bravos MEDX655DW0 Dryer Not Heating – What Part Fixes This Problem?
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Understanding the Problem
Brief explanation: Many MEDX655DW0 Maytag Bravos dryers that run but don’t produce heat are caused by a failed heating element or an open safety thermostat/limit. Lint-clogged vents and blown thermal fuses also commonly cause a no-heat condition. The two most-cited service parts for this model are the heating element kit (279838) and the high-limit thermostat kit (279197). Step-by-step diagnostic and repair instructions: 1) Safety & prep - Unplug the dryer and turn off the circuit breaker. Confirm power is off with a non-contact voltage tester at the cord if available. Remove clothing from the drum and empty the lint trap. 2) Check venting and airflow (quick test before disassembly) - Start a timed cycle and after 2–3 minutes, open the dryer door and feel/observe airflow at the lint trap and outside vent. Poor/no airflow indicates a clogged vent/duct or restrictive blower — fix the venting first. Clean lint from the cabinet and vent hose. 3) Verify proper power supply - Electric dryers need two 120V legs (240V total). Use a voltmeter at the terminal block (behind the dryer) to verify ~240V across the two hot terminals. If you only have 120V on each hot to neutral but not across both hots, the dryer won’t heat. 4) Test the thermal safety devices (quick tests) - Locate the thermal fuse and high-limit thermostat (usually on or near the heater housing). Remove connectors and check continuity with a multimeter. An open thermal fuse or high-limit thermostat = no heat. If open, replace the failed device and inspect for vent/airflow problems that caused overheating. 5) Inspect and test the heating element - Access the heater box (on many Bravos models you remove the rear panel or front panel and drum). Visually inspect the element coil for breaks or burn spots. Use a multimeter to check continuity across the element terminals — it should show continuity (low ohms). If it’s open or visibly damaged, replace the heating element kit (279838). 6) Check cycling thermostat and other thermostats - If the element and fuses have continuity, test the cycling thermostat(s). These control temperature during the cycle. Replace any thermostat that is out of specification. 7) Replace parts as needed (how-to for element & high-limit kit) - Unplug dryer. Remove access panel (rear or front per model). For the heating element kit (279838): disconnect wires from the element housing, remove mounting screws, pull out element assembly, transfer any brackets/insulation and install new element, reconnect wires. For the high-limit kit (279197): remove the old high-limit thermostat(s) on the heater housing, mount new thermostats and reconnect wires. Reassemble panels, restore power and run a test cycle. 8) Final testing - With the dryer reassembled, run a timed high-heat cycle for 5–10 minutes to confirm the dryer heats and airflow is normal. Check for unusual smells; a slight odor on first run is normal. Safety note: Always disconnect power before opening the dryer. Thermal fuses and thermostats are safety devices that blow when overheating occurs—if you replace them, correct the root cause (typically restricted airflow) or the replacements will fail again.
Common Symptoms
Dryer tumbles but produces little or no heat; takes excessively long to dry; may run and then stop heating; excessive lint/heat at the dryer exterior or ducting.
Common Causes
- Broken/open heating element (coil breaks or shorts out)
- Open thermal fuse or high-limit thermostat due to overheating
- Restricted venting or clogged lint screen causing overheating and tripped safety devices
- Incorrect power supply (missing one hot leg / blown breaker)
Popular Parts That Fix This Problem
These are the most common replacement parts that fix this problem. When you're ready to order, click below to find the right part at ProsourceParts.com — just search by your appliance model number for a guaranteed fit.
Helpful Repair Tip
Confirm the root cause by testing continuity: a heating element with no continuity or an open high-limit/thermal fuse will be the immediate cause of no heat. Fix venting before replacing safety parts to avoid repeat failure.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I replace the heating element and thermostat kit myself?
Yes — if you are comfortable working safely around electrical appliances. Turn off and unplug the dryer, remove the appropriate access panel, disconnect wires (take photos for reference), remove the old heater and thermostats, install replacements and reconnect wires. Basic hand tools and a multimeter are recommended. If you’re unsure about electrical tests, hire a technician.
How do I know if the thermal fuse or the heating element is the problem?
Use a multimeter to check continuity. An open thermal fuse or high-limit thermostat will read no continuity and is a common no-heat cause. If the fuse and thermostats have continuity but there's still no heat, test the heating element for continuity or visible break. Also confirm the dryer has proper 240V supply and that the venting isn’t blocked before replacing parts.
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