LG WT5680HVA00 Hot/Cold Water Inlet Valve – What Part Fixes This Problem?
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Understanding the Problem
The water inlet valve (hot/cold) controls filling the washer with hot and cold water when the machine calls for it. When it fails you may get no water, only one temperature, slow filling, or continuous filling. Below are step-by-step diagnostics and a practical replacement procedure you can follow. 1) Verify the symptom and simple checks: a. Confirm whether neither, one, or both fill ports are affected. Try hot and cold fill separately with a rinse or temp-select cycle. b. Make sure both household supply faucets are fully open and the supply hoses are not kinked. c. Inspect the inlet hose screens (remove hoses from the washer and look into the inlet ports for debris). 2) Test for water pressure and screens: a. Shut off water to the washer and disconnect hoses from the back. b. Turn the water on into a bucket briefly to verify good pressure from the house plumbing. c. If the house pressure is fine, check and clean the inlet screens in the washer inlet valve (use needle-nose pliers and a small brush). 3) Electrical & solenoid checks (requires a multimeter): a. Unplug the washer and remove the top or rear access panel to reach the inlet valve. b. Label and photograph wire connectors before disconnecting. c. With the connectors off, measure coil resistance across the hot and cold solenoids — typical solenoid resistance is often in the low hundreds to low thousands of ohms. A completely open circuit (infinite ohms) indicates a failed coil. d. Reconnect everything, plug the washer in, put it into a fill cycle, and check for voltage at the coil connector when it should be filling (use caution — 120VAC is present on many models). If voltage is present but the valve doesn’t pass water, the valve is bad. 4) Cleaning vs replacement decision: a. If screens are clogged or debris is present and electrical tests are normal, cleaning may restore function. b. If a coil shows open or shorted resistance, or the valve does not open when given proper voltage, replace the valve assembly. 5) Replacement steps (practical how-to): a. Tools needed: adjustable wrench, screwdrivers, pliers, multimeter, towels/bucket. b. Turn off water at house shutoffs and unplug the washer. c. Move washer away from wall and remove top/rear access panel per model service instructions (usually screws at rear and slide top back). d. Place towel under valve area to catch drips. Disconnect water hoses from the valve (some water will spill). Remove electrical connectors — label or photograph first. e. Remove mounting screws holding the inlet valve housing and pull the valve assembly free. Note orientation of small plastic fillers and screens. f. Transfer any necessary fittings or mounting brackets to the new valve. Install new valve into place and secure with screws. g. Reconnect electrical plugs to the correct solenoid terminals (refer to photos/labels), reconnect water hoses, and restore water supply. h. Turn on water supply slowly and check for leaks at hose connections and valve mounting. Tighten hoses if necessary. i. Plug in the washer and run a short fill/fill-and-spin cycle to verify hot and cold fill work properly and there are no leaks. Safety note: Always unplug the washer before doing internal checks. When checking for live voltage during a fill cycle use proper caution — only perform voltage tests if you are experienced and comfortable working with live circuits. If unsure, call a qualified appliance technician.
Common Symptoms
No water fill, only hot or only cold fills, very slow fill, continuous filling (won't stop), leaks at the inlet valve, intermittent fill failures.
Common Causes
- Clogged inlet screens or debris blocking water flow
- Failed solenoid coil (open or shorted) preventing valve actuation
- Electrical issue in wiring or control board not sending voltage
- Mechanical sticking of the valve plunger due to mineral deposits or wear
- Low household water pressure or kinked supply hoses
Popular Parts That Fix This Problem
These are the most common replacement parts that fix this problem. When you're ready to order, click below to find the right part at ProsourceParts.com — just search by your appliance model number for a guaranteed fit.
Helpful Repair Tip
To confirm a faulty valve: while the washer is in a fill step, check for 120VAC at the solenoid connector. If the solenoid gets voltage but the valve doesn't let water through, replace the inlet valve.
Frequently Asked Questions
How much does it cost to replace the inlet valve on an LG washer?
Part cost typically ranges from a modest OEM price to higher for genuine LG assemblies—expect roughly $30–$120 for the valve depending on source. If you hire a technician, labor may add another $100–$200 depending on rates. Replacement is usually a 30–90 minute job for a competent DIYer.
Can I clean or repair the inlet valve instead of replacing it?
If the issue is debris-clogged screens, cleaning can fix it: remove hoses, inspect and clean screens, and re-test. However, if a solenoid coil is electrically open or the valve plunger is magnetically/ mechanically failed, the valve assembly should be replaced — solenoids are not normally serviceable.
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